I have a 92 ford explorer 4 wheel drive. The on the fly 4 wheel drive in the dash doesn't work any more. I've just been driving in 2 wheel. but now my 4 wheel drive keeps engaging.

I've purchased the warn manual hubs but have not installed them yet because in the instructions it says for opereration of them you have to switch the transfer case to 4 wheel drive, then manually turn the hubs to 4 wheel drive. Well...........I dont think I can switch the transfer case to 4 wheel drive without the ability at the dash can I?

If the manual hubs won't fix my problem. What do I do to be able to keep running in 2 wheel at least to get to work?

Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

 

First check the brown wire that goes into the T/C:

• in 2x4, it should have 0vdc
• 4x4 hi, 12vdc

If you have 12vdc when in 2x4, the electromagnetic clutch is engaged, problem with switch or GEM (rear compartment forward of the jack).

Temporary fix;

• disconnect brown wire from connnection block @ T/C, or
• install manual hubs and run them unlocked.

 

Great info. aquanaut20

I will check the voltage at the brown wire.

So you are saying that even without doing anything to the transfer case. I still have to install the manual hubs i've purchased to keep the 4 wheel from actually engaging as I drive down the road.

More to the story (The full story).
A couple years ago. When I pressed the indash button for 4 wheel it seamed like it tried to work. I would hear a click over the left rear wheel well and the idle and voltage meter would lower a bit for a couple of seconds then nothing.

I took it to a local Transmission place and asked for a quote to fix it. When I recieved the truck back from them. When I press the in dash button. Nothing happens at all. (by the way their quote said I would have to replace the in dash switch which costs approx $200). (do you know how to check its voltage?)

Now all of a sudden after driving for a couple of years in 2 wheel drive it is engaging as I drive down the road. first it rubs metal / metal. then clunck clunck (rattle ratttle thunder clatter boom boom boom) and will pull toward one side as I drive down the road. ( left or right its indescrimanent)
Now I have purchased the "WARN" manual hubs due to other posts Ive seen here for approximatly $240 and am wondering if I made the right choice.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

with the hubs unlocked the front wheels will free wheel

 

Great.
thanks again. I will definately install the manual hubs to keep the 4W drive from engaging. Thanks to you I can get to work tommorow.

****I also edited my previous post. and added the Full story.***
That may change your highly appreciated answers.

 

This is generaly a sign that the shift actuator on the T/C needs servicing.

Can't comment on what they may have done! Not common for the switch to go bad, but one never knows.

• Make sure the 2x4 button is depressed.
• Do not drive on dry surfaces with 4x4 engaged, unless the hubs are unlocked.

 

I am going out to install my WARN manual hubs right now.
Thanks for your response!

 

I would pull a switch out of a junkyard way before I ever paid someone $200...

 

Ok. I installed the manual hubs and switched to "free" now I can drive in 2W drive to work. It was very easy and only took about 2 hours going relatively slow.

When in free mode the wheels turn and the front axles don't. When in lock mode the front axles turn with the wheel.

Thanks Aquanaut20 for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When I have time to search through junk yards I will look for the parts that will help me switch to 4W drive.

I still need to figure out how to switch to 4W drive on the transfer case.
Are there any fuses or simple checks I can do to figure out why my in the dash switch isn't working. every once in a while the 4W drive low light will come on. but I dont know what's going on with that.

So far I've looked behind the dash and it is connected. I've looked in the left rear wheel well inside and checked the electrical box it goes to and it is connected. I suppose the last thing to do is go down to the transfer case and check the wiring and such.
Whatever the local transmission place did to it to make the switch not activate is beyond me.

 

service the actuator motor on the T/C.

Did you test the power on the brown wire?

 

No not yet.
I read in the thread I've attached below that if you disconnect the (2) cable harnesses on the box in the rear left over the wheel well. Then put the ignition to "run". you can press the white tab and it will either blink red or be constant on. It it blinks red that means there is a problem at the motor actuator. If it is constant red the computer box over the wheel well needs replaced. Do you know anyting about that.
This thread below seams very helpful. What do you think?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-4x4-help.html

 

You can test the module per the thread you mentioned. Good place to start, doesn't cost you anything. I wouldn't expect the module to be the problem.

By far, the #1 root cause of problems "with the dash lights" ends up being the actuator motor (aka transfer case motor), especially if the 4WD doesn't get used often. As mentioned above, search for the rebuild / service procedures for this, you can fix it yourself for free, or just buy a replacement for around $100.

Usually, if the t-case motor is messed up, you get blinking lights on the dash (the motor doesn't know where it is).

If you still have no luck after that, it could be something electrical, but I would say that's the last resort (and most difficult to resolve).

Mike