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Question, what type of front and rear ends were equipped for my '75 highboy? There is no code markings for them on my door pillar. Also, I cannot accurately read the codes on the rear/front end label plates. I want to change the differential fluid on them and want to get the correct inspection plate gasket at the parts store.
Also, what is the best fluid to use for the change? I'm not talking the recommended 1975 technology per the service manual, but the best stuff available now. I was thinking of a Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil, not sure about the proper oil weight though. Any thoughts?
Unless your truck has the rare ( for that era ) Dana 60 front axle it should have a Dana 44 in the front and a Dana 60 in the rear.A quick check is to measure the width of the cover.If they are the same they are both 60's, if the front one is smaller it's a 44. The old spec was likely 90W-140. This will convert to 75W-90 in synthetic lube. If you do change from petroleum to synthetic be sure to flush out the all of the old lube with brake cleaner and let it dry.Don't forget the wheel bearings on the rear.If my memory is correct the front axle should be the closed knuckle design and the wheel ends shared the same lube as the diff. The reason for this is the additive packages for petroleum and synthetic lubes are not always compatible and can result in the formation of a chemical sludge.Hope this helps.
Redcat, thanks for the info. I'll go with the 75W-90 weight synthetic. The info at Autozone stated about 3 qts for each axle. Is this close to what anyone else has? Do I need the friction modifier? Thanks again.
Take the cover off and take it to the parts store with you. Tell them that i is either a Dana 44 of Dana 60. Then if it is like my experience at the parts store the guy ask you the following questions.
What year, model, engine size, 2 or 4 barrell, 2 or 4 wheel drive. And all I wanted was a suspension part.
Don't forget to fill the knuckles in the front axle when you change the differential fluid. Most people forget these, and end up having the trunion bearings fail pre-maturely. Some people fill them with grease, but the Ford service manual says gear lube. I just rebuilt the trunions on mine 6 months ago, and replaced all of the felt gaskets, and no leaks yet!
Take the cover off and take it to the parts store with you. Tell them that i is either a Dana 44 of Dana 60. Then if it is like my experience at the parts store the guy ask you the following questions.
What year, model, engine size, 2 or 4 barrell, 2 or 4 wheel drive. And all I wanted was a suspension part.
Anyone else had that happen?
Mike O.
Oh yeah, and it really fires me up when I give them a manufacturers part number and they feed me that drill. Then they want your name, address and phone number.As far as Advance is concerned I live at 1313 Mockingbird Lane.You would think somebody would have caught that by now.
There are TWO door ID tags. One is a blue Certification Label, the other is the Rating (VIN) Plate. One is on the B pillar (striker post), the other may be on the door face, or B pillar above the CL label. The Rating Plate has all the codes, like axle code &trans code.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 30, 2007 at 05:01 AM.
Six quarts per axel? The autozone website was sure off!! I'll guess I'll just buy extra and return whatever I don't use. Do you need a friction modifier if you use synthetic gear oil?
I'm not a real big fan of "big brother" knowing what/when/where I buy, but it does make it nice for the warranty items. Things like batteries, alternators, and brakes with warranties, you can take them back to the store and get new items without having a receipt. I know because I'm not the greatest at saving receipts, but I can explicitly remember making a special trip to the parts store 4 years ago to buy a new alternator .
Mike,As Jermafenser stated you'll only need friction modifier if you have a limited slip axle.Also, I was wrong on the 90W-140 spec.It is 80W-90 but still converts to 75W-90 in synthetic lube.Oops!
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