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After finding some "weeping" from below my truck, I now see its coming thru the rust area near the drain plug on the oil-pan. After scraping (mistake) the loose rust, a small hole developed and after some brazing, epoxy and silicone, I think I finally have the leak stopped. I then coated the whole pan with the motorcraft pan-sealer to buy some time.
SOOO, is there an easy way to replace this pan? Or does the entire engine need to be lifted since the cross-member is in the way?
Just bought the truck a few weeks ago, and the entire pan is in ruff shape.
It's an '01 SD 4x4 7.3
Any help is appreciated.
Not sure if there is an easy way or not to remove the oil pan. My truck had a oil pan seal leak and the ford dealer under warranty removed the entire engine to take the pan off and re seal it. I have heard that you can jack the engine up enough if you remove the turbo to get enough room to remove the oil pan but im not sure
Replacing the oil pan involves pulling the engine, and turning it upside down to properly apply the sealer gasket to the pan and block. Wish you lots of luck!
I figured it has to come out....oh well, "upside down to apply sealant"? Hope your kidding...I have sealed a lot of engine parts, NEVER had to turn anything upside down.
The sealer sticks to an inverted surface. Thanks for your replies
I figured it has to come out....oh well, "upside down to apply sealant"? Hope your kidding...I have sealed a lot of engine parts, NEVER had to turn anything upside down.
The sealer sticks to an inverted surface. Thanks for your replies
I was thinking the same thing but not sure. If you crack this one, and you will be the first, let us know how you do it.
The reason you need to turn the engine upside down is so that oil won't run onto the sealing surface. It is the only way to be sure that you get a good seal.
Apply a bead of silicone gasket and sealant at the crankshaft rear seal retainer-to-cylinder block surface, at the locations shown.
NOTE: If not secure within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, follow the directions provided on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leak.
I am wondering if the ford dealer will cover it under the ford 10 year or 100,000 mile warranty on the motor.You should call to ford to see if this is covered under the motor warranty.At the most you would just pay the one time I beleive 100.00 deductible.
Alan, is that for oil pan replacement? I have not looked and wouldn't want to try it but I would definitely try it if it were me before pulling the engine. Seems you would have to disconnect so much to hoist it that it might as well come out.
I was faced with a similar situation two weeks after I bought my truck as well. A pinhole leak from a rusty oil pan.
What I did was to completly drain the oil pan and then clean the bottom of the pan with brake clean. Get it oil free.
Go to NAPA, get a fuel tank repair kit for a metal gas tank part number 7651565 or BK 7651565. Follow the instructions as you would for patching a fuel tank on the bottom of your oil pan. Link to NAPA
I did that two years ago for my truck and it's still dry on the bottom of the pan.
Once you are sure that it's fixed, sand and paint the entire rest of the oil pan with a rust treatment like POR-15.
Yeah, I missed the boat on the Ford warranty. The truck has 116K miles and is an '01. The previous owner was an obvious Ray Charles and saw nothing....he could have had it fixed under the warranty Im sure.
I did use the Motorcraft anti-corrosion sealer, which definately made a difference, but this one small hole (the size of a lolly-pop stick) that I inserted a screw into and brazed around gave a a real hard-time. Seems ok for now....we'll see.
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