Hey, all, I'm not fortunate enough to have both of these welders, what is your recommendation for the best all around welding that we do. In other words, what is the best all-around, tig or mig. I might be able to pick up a regular arc welder and a mini Acetylene/Oxy outfit cheap , so will have that for some things.

 

MIG is easy, relatively cheap and a very capable system. It is a point and shoot style welder that is also very easy to learn. (Flux core wire - no gas bottle - isn't MIG). I would say MIG is "the best all around" system for our stuff.

TIG is the ultimate welding rig. The equipment is expensive, can be used to weld anything weldable (alum, steel, titanium, etc), is infinitely more controllable than any other method, and is also capable of doing the thinnest to the thickest pieces. But, it is difficult to master and fairly unforgiving. The prettiest welds are usually TIG.

I can personally get by with MIG, but have no hands-on experience with TIG. I have worked around and designed stuff for both systems. So...I prolly don't know squat.

 

Jim, I have a tig because I had a chance to buy a big 300/300 Miller setup with a foot pedal and high frequency for very light money. (Would $150 for two machines be light money? I bought two to get the one of my choice and gave the second machine to a guy that wanted to buy one of the machines like I did. They wanted $100 each or $150 for the pair. I turned to the other guy and asked him if he wanted a free machine. He said sure so I got my choice that included the one tig torch and all of the cable and stinger-lots of cable plus the welder). For years I only had a buzz box and oxy acetylene. Originally Migs came into being as production guns since they can lay down a lot of metal fast, however in part due to price they have become the welder of choice for the kind of work that we do. All that said, I would not trade my Tig for a mig.

 

What R.J. said.....with some additional notes

your final decision on a welder should depend on its intended use... If you plan on doing primarily heavy welding (1/4" and up...farm equipment, heavy plate and angle iron) then a stick welder will serve you well, although a hi amp wire machine will work also. You're looking at the 200 amp and up work there
If you plan on light gauge projects, sheet metal work, body repair then I'd say a MIG machine would serve you better. Light gauge tubing, 1/8" plate... body repair... that type of thing..

thickenss will also determine the amperage you need.. for all light gauge work like body sheet metal and such you can do with a 110 volt machine 90-110 amp welding current. (up to about 1/8" with limited duty cycle ...at most 15 seconds of each minute can be spent welding)

For 1/4" and down anything between a 100 - 200 amp machine will serve you well. (ALTHOUGH you'll be pushing the duty cycle of a lower amp welder on thicker metal) Lots of car guys look in the range of 175-190 amp ...both lincoln and miller offer them.

Heavy stuff... 200 or better..

My opinion of Harbor Freight welders.....import junk.. although you can get good deals on name brand tools there sometimes, it's basically an outlet for low quality tools...

Stick with a name brand... Miller, Hobart, Lincoln... you can always get replacement parts...even on weekends and they have good service reps...

I have a Hobart "suitcase" welder, 100 amp 110 volt for light stuff and it does a great job using either gas or flux core. For larger material I have a Millermatic 200. A 200 amp 220 volt machine that will handle anything else I tend to stick together.. I normally run both on GMAW...(gas metal arc welding... with bare wire) only using flux core for outside windy conditions. (the wind blows the shielding gas away). Flux core wire needs more clean up than GMAW It tends to splatter more.

I also have a Lincoln 225 amp ac/dc stick welder that I haven't turned on for several years since I bought the wire machines..
I think wire welding is a lot easier to master than stick and much easier to see and control your weld puddle.

I bought both of my machines used.. from welding houses that had leased them out then refurb'd them and sold them... you can get some really good deals if you're patient (?). Check with some of the supply houses and watch the "Machinery and Equipment" column in the classifieds. Craiglist is also a source.

Anything over 175 amps will probably require 220 volt service so plan on that expense also (if you can't do it yourself. )

Safety equipment.. A good helmet with the proper shield.. You can get away with lighter gloves with wire welders... but with stick, get some good heavy welding gloves. A fire extinguisher close by and readily accessable is a must as well as a bucket of water for cooling your welds. Clamps, pliers, vice grips and a BFH are almost a necessity. Wear long sleeves and long pants that are not tucked into your boots.. no sneekers... hot metal goes thru them like...well hot metal !! and you get to do that original dance called the 'welder with hot metal in his shoe !!! every rendition is unique and dang funny...


Additional costs to add to the purchase price.... the purchase of or rental of a gas bottle with shielding gas... usually a 75/25 argon/co2 mix... size determines $$$$$... and the cost of a flow meter that actually regulates the shielding gas flow rate...

as for TIG... it's the fancy-smancy welders choice... does the very best, most critical, have to be perfect welds... the users are artists with many hours of practice time and walls full of certifications. The machines are expensive as are consumables... and they are dang persnickity about cleanliness and weld prep... this is what you use when there is an inspector coming around shortly with his portable x-ray machine... much more than the average home shop welder needs... unless you are like 49willard and steal them .. BTW willard ??? I'd like two at that price, please...

all these words add up to "Your Choice" , but MIG is the best all around machine IMHO




hope it helps
john

 

Wow, a lot of good advice, and BG it makes sense. Guess I'll start concentrating on a "mig" setup. The "refurb" from a good outfit idea is good, I've been doing that for woodworking tools and haven't been disappointed yet.

Thanks a bunch, I really value the advice of those on this forum because collectively, every thing has been seen, done, or screwed up and fixed (the most effective way to learn).

Most appreciated, Jim.

 

One of the best form of education, do it, redo it, redo it................... Sooner or later you'll get it right.

 

For all around hobby use, I agree the Mig is the most practical. Add an oxy setup for cutting and bending and you're set for most projects. I'd love to have a tig, but I can't justify the cost unless 49 williard adopts me. Don't buy a cheap welder! Save your money for a name, like Hobart, Miller or Lincoln. I went through three Harbor Freight welders (all on warranty, luckily) before finally getting a Hobart. My weld quality is much better with a quality welder.

 

rhopper - I`m embarissed I`m showing my ignorance. But; Whats an oxy setup for cutting and bending for on a Mig? Thanks

 

For several years I used a snap on mig welder, it was good for sheet metal and your typical automotive frame repair. Altho I thought it was a very good welder, I mastered it in no time and was laying down some decent welds, could even weld rusted exhaust pipes. Then one day I hired a fellow to work in our body shop: said he had his own tools including his own mig welder. Long story short he didn`t stay long due to wife troubles and a pending divorce. The day he severed his employment, he offered me his Miller mig welder for four hundred and fifty dollars, so I bought it. Let me tell you something, after I use the Miller, The snapon went into a corner and has been collecting dust ever since, that was about ten years ago. The miller is still running and gets passed around the shop to one of three different body men on a daily basis. I have no Idea how old it was when I bought it, but I`ve had it for ten years now and the only thing we ever buy for it is tips and an occasional feed liner, your normal maintenance items. I`m currently in process of setting up another small shop at my home and will be selling the snapon welder to partially pay for my new Miller that I`m going to treat myself to. Imo, if you do much welding at all and want really good quality welds, then spend the extra money for something more in the industrial grade, thats what my miller is and I love it.

 

Jim,
I bought my Lincoln Mig some 5-6 years and it was supposed to be ideal for welding sheet metal. I've used it extensively in that time frame and found it to be much easier to weld than with my old stick welder, in fact, I only use the stick welder when I have to weld thicker than 1/4" material. I have over the last few years heard alot of negative comments regarding how much more brittle the Mig welds are compared to Tig welds. So with the knowledge of all the sheetmetal bodywork in front of me, about a month ago, I purchased a Lincoln Tig welder. In the paast month since I purchased it I've spent a little time practiceing with it. Let me tell you, welding with a Tig is much more difficult than with a Mig. At this point in time I can get better looking welds with the Mig. I expect this to change over time but I'm not there yet. One thing nice about the Tig is that there is next to no splatter unlike with the Mig. One negative with the Tig is that because you have to use both hands and one foot to weld the process lends itself more to what I would call bench top or jig setup welding. Whereas the Mig can be used in and around the chassis or body because all you need is to point and shoot with one hand. For me the jurys still out on the Tig, but, at this point in time I would have to recommend a 220V Mig by Lincoln or Miller as the best investment you could make in a welder.

 

Thanks, Bruce, based on all I've read here and your comments, I'm going after the MIG. I have a good lead on a good lincoln unit that belongs to a friend's Dad who is no longer active in his hobbies.

 

Gusso, I meant an ocy/acetelyne torch set up, in addition to a mig. You can cut heavy stock, heat steel for bending, and of course, weld. Before migs became so available, the oxy/acet torch was the standard welding setup for most hobbyists.

 

I still use on occasion my oxy/acetelyne torch set up to weld. Is that bad? Am I missing something about welding. I do have a mig that I use, but also gas weld. Help me out here gang, should I not be gas welding on my fenders etc.?

 

If you are going to be doing sheetmetal work with the mig, first don't buy a high amp unit, stay under 250A. Second buy a spool of 0.025 ESAB "Easy Grind" wire, it's a lot softer and less brittle than standard wires.
For those with Tig machines, if you get the chance or the extra money buy a torch with the slide switch on the handle instead of the foot pedal, so you can stop trying to do the pat your head and rub your belly routine.

 

MY 55,
nothing at all wrong with gas welding sheet metal if you are proficient at it. Custom bodymen will often use it over Mig if they don't have access to a Tig. Biggest problem is it has a very steep learning curve. Have you welded aluminum with your Ox-Ac setup? with the right flux and rod it works great!