Getting gun shy about my up and comming clutch up grade after reading another post on flywheels and multi p/n's. I fried my 2 year old China clutch because, I think, a combination of too tall rear gear, tall tires, cold motor weak master cylinder mounting and a bad flywheel with heat fractures. I did get the flywheel surfaced but it did not remove the heat fractures. The shop that surfaced it said it should be ok. Well, I am the kind of guy who would rather use the rig than wrench on it so I have a new Centerforce Dual friction clutch ordered. I also got a flywheel from the wrecking yard without any heatfractures or blue spots. I did not get it surfaced yet because I want to make sure it matches the one that in the rig now. Still wating for the clutch to arive.
I am unclear on the concept of internal/external engine balancing. Matching harmonic balancers to flywheels?
What I have is the 300 I6 in a 1985 VAN. The casted p/n on the new to me flywheel is C6AE-6380-C. There is also a casted p/n with philphead casting on each side of OH23. Another stamed number on a surfaced face is EOTE-BA.
In my mind a flywheel should be balanced by it's self, not with a harmonic balancer on the of the end of the crankshaft! I do know the mounting holes are offset on the flywheel so it fits on the crank in one position only.
I don't want to make a hobby out of this clutch upgrade. Anyone see any problem with this flywheel for my application? I guess I should try to find a p/n on my harmonic balancer because I put a different one on when I rebuit the motor last year. Thanks for any and all feedback.

 

1980/89 E150/350

300 I-6~M/T

E0TE-BA = E0TZ-6375-A
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C6AE-6380-C ??

 

Make sure you put sealer on the flywheel bolts or you will think the rear main leaks.

 

Thanks kotzy for the heads-up on the flywheel bolt sealer. I pulled the manual 3-speed trans out yesterday. I also pulled the flywheel to have it replaced/surfaced. I did notice the flywheel bolts were covered with oil. A guy would think this holes would be blind and not be drilled thru to the inside of the motor. Wrong! It does look like the rear main seal is leaking, at first glance. There is even trace oil on the rear engine oil pan. This had to help making a short life for my clutch. So this time I will use blue locktight thread sealer on the threads after I clean the threaded holes and screws with brake cleaner.
Thanks to NumberDummy for the p/n chase. My flywheels are both stamped with the EOTE-BA code. My new to me flywheel was $25. Surfacing was $35 and took about 15 min. as I wated at the shop. Thanks for the help guys!