Ebay dial indicators
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
The last c6 I built I clamped a bar across the bellhousing, and used a dial caliper to measure the play. They give you a (IIRC).040" range to hit, and I landed a bit on the tight side of it once I rebuilt the tranny. You don't need the measurement until it goes back together and you have to set up that shim. On mine, I had to replace the pump and front shell, since it spit out the washer and ground the two together, hence the rebuild.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
I'm no expert, and I believe that for most hobby apps, the less expensive ones are fine. I did come across some information from an outfit called the Long Island indicator company. If it's still around it's interesting to read.
They were obviously purists, and they spoke a lot about rebuilding indicators -- for people who use them enough to need such things.
I don't, but I bought a Mitutoyo that they recommended. Cost around $65 -- and I'm sure that it's more than I'll ever need. But, what the heck, I like tools.
ford2go
They were obviously purists, and they spoke a lot about rebuilding indicators -- for people who use them enough to need such things.
I don't, but I bought a Mitutoyo that they recommended. Cost around $65 -- and I'm sure that it's more than I'll ever need. But, what the heck, I like tools.
ford2go
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 765
Likes: 4
From: Fairmount, Georgia
I am a machinist and from my experience SPI makes a decent indicator. For my personal use, I prefer Starrett but if you are not going to use it often then the cost may be a little more than one could justify. Starrett, Browne & Sharpe, Interapid and Mitutoyo are the top picks in my book.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 1
From: The dark carnival
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Very few people have a use for a dial indicator unless they are a machinist trying to measure runout etc.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
I bees, yo bees so we bee's must bees my nor it tees.
Many of times installed used R&P's in different housings.
One must take notes on pinion depth and backlash before
removing for setup in a different housing to continue existing
wear pattern.
Many of times installed used R&P's in different housings.
One must take notes on pinion depth and backlash before
removing for setup in a different housing to continue existing
wear pattern.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 9
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Oh, I get it . . .
Bottom line is the pattern. Before there is a wear pattern (new gears), there is the pattern left when the R&P are lapped to each other at the factory. If you can get the same pattern, the gears will run quiet. The easy way, with the right measuring tools and jigs, is to duplicate the info etched onto the gears about the factory setting during lapping. If you have enough patience, you can trial & error the whole setup and get good results, so long as you get a centered pattern and have some backlash. The ease of doing this on a Ford 9" is one of the beautiful things about these rear ends.
The other important thing is the need for a proper pre-load on both pairs of bearings. This is what makes the rear end stay quiet for the long haul. This can be measured with expensive tools, but some (not me) do it by "calibrated hand". (It can also be done by shimming for zero clearance and then changing shims.)
Bottom line is the pattern. Before there is a wear pattern (new gears), there is the pattern left when the R&P are lapped to each other at the factory. If you can get the same pattern, the gears will run quiet. The easy way, with the right measuring tools and jigs, is to duplicate the info etched onto the gears about the factory setting during lapping. If you have enough patience, you can trial & error the whole setup and get good results, so long as you get a centered pattern and have some backlash. The ease of doing this on a Ford 9" is one of the beautiful things about these rear ends.
The other important thing is the need for a proper pre-load on both pairs of bearings. This is what makes the rear end stay quiet for the long haul. This can be measured with expensive tools, but some (not me) do it by "calibrated hand". (It can also be done by shimming for zero clearance and then changing shims.)
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 1
From: The dark carnival
Originally Posted by acheda
eco is correct - very few people do work on differentials.
Even in the Clutch, Trans, . . . forum, I'd bet those who do their own ring & pinion setups from scratch are a minority.
Even in the Clutch, Trans, . . . forum, I'd bet those who do their own ring & pinion setups from scratch are a minority.
With the Ford service manual, the Badshoe DVD and a good set of the right kind of tools, differentials are cake. All you have to do is follow the instructions to the letter, document everything as you go, be very maticulous and take your time. As we speak, I am in the middle of a 8.8 project. My first rear end job. I am replacing the carrier with a traction-lok and a new ring and pinion (3.55, Yukon brand from Randy's Ring and Pinion). Thus far I have the whole thing tore down and cleaned and I am waiting on parts.
I use the Snap-on dial indicator. Very nice unit. It goes by incriments of 1/2 thousandths, it is very easy to read and is very user friendly.
Last edited by eco; Apr 2, 2007 at 02:40 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 9
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I agree that ring & pinion setups are not beyond most mechanic's abilities. The problem is that they see more engine work and understand the concepts better. The existence of specialized tools that the pros use to minimize time and make $$$ scares most people off. I've done two Ford 9" setups and they both went a long distance with no problems. I will soon swap out the R&P in my Dana 70, so I know I will miss the convenience of the 9".
Gratuitous mention of tools to keep on topic: I will be using a housing spreader that a friend of mine made, but I understand many pros do not bother and just use the "armstrong" approach. And, YES, I will be using my Browne & Sharp BesTest dial indicator to check the backlash. (I will also be making some setup bearings so my new bearing will not have to be pressed on & off.)
Gratuitous mention of tools to keep on topic: I will be using a housing spreader that a friend of mine made, but I understand many pros do not bother and just use the "armstrong" approach. And, YES, I will be using my Browne & Sharp BesTest dial indicator to check the backlash. (I will also be making some setup bearings so my new bearing will not have to be pressed on & off.)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Originally Posted by acheda
Before there is a wear pattern (new gears), there is the pattern left when the R&P are lapped to each other at the factory. If you can get the same pattern, the gears will run quiet. The easy way, with the right measuring tools and jigs, is to duplicate the info etched onto the gears about the factory setting during lapping.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 9
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I agree. Used or new - put the gears back the way they want to be. The lower the mileage the more relevent the numbers. The higher the mileage, the more one should just go by the pattern. If the bearings were loose long enough though, you might not be able to get a good pattern with new bearings if the wear has proceeded with the centerlines off of a true 90 degrees.