Last Spark Plug - aarrgghh!!
I was able to change FIVE of the plugs -- the 6th eludes me. Of course it is the one closest to firewall on the driver's side. I have lost a significant about of blood, flesh, and respect (the neighbors heard my angry language...my bad!). y advice that doesn't involve explosives?
I also discovered that the distro cap and rotor were "original". The posts inside the distro cap had corroded down significantly. I really don't know how this Aero was still running with no codes. I especially don't know how I am getting 25+mpg with this condition. New cap, rotor, five plugs, and wires should push this baby past 30mpg, right? (Just kidding!)
Thanks guys,
Michael
'93 3.0L Aero 2WD EB
'93 4.0L Aero 2WD EB
If that doesn't work, try doing it from under the van.
If that still doesn't work, try taking out the plastic cover on the throttle cable and remove the metal bracket with the cable on it (two 10mm bolts). With that out of the way, you'll have a clear shot of the last plug.
The driver's side ones have all been easy for me, given a 2' 3/8" extension and a u-joint right at the plug socket. There's no way to get it from inside, AFAICT.
The pass. side rear, however . . . yes, a spark plug socket that has a hex for a 3/4" wrench at the top is the method I use. From underneath. I once used a swivel-head gearwrench on the socket's top and that seemed to work well for that one plug.
My first Aero was an 1990 Extended with a 3.0. It was a bear when I first attempted a plug change. I had two access area's. The one already afore mentioned dog house removal. You basically have to slide your hand under and is in reference to the left of the coil). Blindly feel for the plug first then you can tell where it is. Lastly, I actually removed the front drivers side tire and had tons more room.
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First remove the throttle cable plastic cover.
Then install the spark plug socket on the plug then using the hex head on the rear of the spark plug socket either use a box end wrench or place another socket on your socket wrench and use the socket on your wrench to turn the plug socket.
To get your tools back there reach over the throttle and you will be able to see well enough (if you removed the cover) to get it done.
Its wierd some of us say the passenger rear was the hardest while others like me say that the drivers was the hardest.
I still remember the bad scrapes on my arm from the throttle cable poking me the whole time that turned out to be a painful learning experience
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I still remember the bad scrapes on my arm from the throttle cable poking me the whole time that turned out to be a painful learning experience
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Thanks for all the wise advice. I couldn't have survived this first tune-up experience without your kind words of support.
Michael
'93 3.0L Aero 2WD EB
'93 4.0L Aero 2WD EB
3.0l: The driver's side rear plug I do with a 24" 3/8" drive extension and a u-joint to the socket. For the pass. side I use a wrench on the hex at the top of the spark plug socket, from underneath.
The 2 front passenger plugs through the passengers wheel well, removed wheel & with swivels u/j etc both fairly easy. The rear passenger plug was THE worst, took about 2 hrs on this one. Got the boot off somehow (think my Son removed it for me), anyhow after working out the exact angle & position of the plug & doing a thorough "blind map with the finger searching the space technique" I found out that by laying across the seats on my back looking at the interior lamp, I could fit the plug on the socket with the bare end exposed & guide it into the hole..........it worked & I threaded the thing in FIRST time ! !!!!
I almost jumped up & touched the moon!?!?!?!?!?
It was the toughest plug job I ever did but a real sense of acheivment, any other job seams to be somewhat easier.
The entire job took about 6-7 hrs but who cares ! that was $300+ labour right there. I dont think the Ford dealer does it MUCH quicker anyhow.
Always make sure you have bright work lights shining on the area, so you can clearly see what needs to be done. Removing doghouse cover too. This is on a 3.o V6 '87 Aerostar.
One good thing, is once you do them correctly, your next change is a piece of cake. Seriously.
Always use a dab of antiseize on the threads and diletric grease on (very small dab) on the plug end and plug wire attachment.
My drivers side, rear plug has always come out normal. The hardest is the passenger side, rear plug, but it can be done. Even though you did not have trouble, for those of you about to change plugs in the Spring on your Aerostar (3.0V6) here is my easy way to remove RR back plug. Use a thin spark plug socket. Try to find a thin as in metal and short. You'd be surprised at the various shapes and sizes of spark plug sockets.
Then slip the socket over the plug, making sure it "bites" on the sparkplug's hex. With an open end wrench, turn the spark plug socket's hex, counterclockwise, using your left hand to keep the sparkplug socket on. You can only turn the wrench barely 1/16th of a turn, but you'll feel the sparkplug break it's seal. That is fine. Then slowly, ever so slowly, keep turning the plug, as it loosens. Be patient, and soon the plug will be able to come out by hand.
I always try to keep my hands clean, so I can feel the plug turning at this point, and have a grip on the top of the plug while turning CC. Nothing to me is worse than trying to remove a sparkplug, with greasy, dirty fingers!
Good luck! Do this, and the next time, you'll never have to worry about hard to remove Aerostar sparkplugs!
Ed

My experience with that plug, and this is on a 4.0 is that it's best to use a low profile tool setup. I use a 3/8" breaker bar instead of a ratchet on my socket. The "head" on it isn't quite as big and it seems to make all the difference. I can remove the plug from under the hood in a minute.







