I have had success going through the "doghouse" portal and working the plugs on the drivers side from the passenger side inside the vehicle. Sounds confusing but it works. I am 6'1" 250lbs so I am not little guy, but if I lay on the passenger side floorboard I can easily access the plus on the drivers side and vise versa. Hope this helps.

 

For the tough one's, some folks mention a socket with a combination wrench. How about a ratcheting 3/4 wrench on the plug socket, will that fit?

 

I think that's what a lot of these guys are talking about; a spark plug socket with the 3/4" hex on the top end. You slip that over the plug, and use some other low-profile wrench over that to loosen the plug. Once you loosen the plug, you should remove the socket, and try to remove the plug with your fingers. If you try to remove the plug with the socket, you will lose clearance as you turn the plug out.

 

I finally got that last plug. Thanks for all the recommendations. The one that worked best for me was through the front. I removed the plastic shield from the throttle, removed the throttle bracket and pushed it aside. That gave me access for both arms to the rear plug. YES, my arms are scratched and sore from the 45 minutes it took to change this plug. BUT, it's finally done. The pld plug didn't look so good, but still had a perfect .44 gap. Not sure how that happened after 202K miles. I guess I'm good until 402K miles before I have to do this again...

Thanks again for the good feedback.

Michael
'93 Aero 3.0L 2WD EXT
'93 Aero 4.0L 2WD EXT

 

I just removed my ac hose assembly from my 3.0. Having the van jacked up on the left side, being behind the A-frame and under the exhaust manifold, I could easily see and touch all the three passenger plugs. Eureka!! I think that Ed has it right, that one should let the suspension hang and this clears enough working space from underneath.

 

Correction: it was jacked up on the right side (didn't figure out how to edit my post yet)

 

Now that I have done the plugs and wires a few times, I can't get rid of the miss and back fireon take off. It use to work but no more. It might be time to put her to rest with 256,000 miles and bad gas mileage.

 

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YES! That is what I was referring to, in my Post #13. You simply slip the spark plug socket over the plug. Then turn the hex on the spark plug socket with an open 3/4" wrench. There is no room otherwise. A metal heat shield is in the way. It's a slow procedure, but you will loosen and remove the rear plug this way.

XLT4wd also is correct. That procedure has worked for me everytime...
Once you get some anti seize on the thread, these rear plugs come out easy, the next time. It's when those rear plugs are torqued down hard into the head, then stay there for 55,000-65,000+ miles, that make them a bear to remove.

Ed

 

B-Aero,
i believe your '95 has SFI sequential fuel injection, if so run the cylinder balance test...may also be timing chain worn slack, more effect on hard acceleration.

Cylinder Balance DTM--SFI Engines Only

The purpose of the cylinder balance test is to assist the mechanic in finding a weak or non-contributing cylinder. The test is entered by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes after the Engine Running Self-Test DTC's have been output.

Once the test is entered, the IAC duty cycle is fixed and the engine is allowed to stabilize. Engine rpm is measured and stored for later use. Next, the fuel is shut off to cylinder number 4, 6 or 8, depending on engine. After a brief stabilization period the engine rpm is again measured and stored. The injector is turned on again and the process is repeated for each of the injectors down to one. At this point, the maximum rpm drop that occurred is selected from the table of rpm drops for each cylinder. This maximum rpm drop is now multiplied by a calibratable percentage. The resulting number (rpm) is now used as the minimum rpm that each cylinder must have dropped to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 65% = 98 rpm

If all cylinders drop at least this amount, then a code 90 is output indicating a pass. No further testing is necessary. If a cylinder did not drop at least this amount, then the cylinder number would be output. For example, 30 for cylinder number 3. This indicates that cylinder number 3 is either weak or non-contributing.

The test can now be repeated a second time if the throttle is depressed and released within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that occurs is multiplied by a lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 43% = 65 rpm

If all the rpm drops are greater than 65 rpm, then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first level and passed the second, then cylinder number 3 is considered to be weak. If cylinder number 3 again failed, the code 30 would be output again.

The test can be repeated a third time by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that results is multiplied by a still lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 20% = 30 rpm

If all the rpm drops are greater than 30 rpm then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first and second level, but passed the third, then it is considered to be a very weak cylinder. If cylinder number 3 failed the third level then a code 30 would again be output. In this case, cylinder number three would be considered a non-contributing cylinder.

The Cylinder Balance DTM may still be repeated as many times as desired by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. All further testing (i.e. 4th, 5th pass) will be done using the third level percentage

 

I gave up trying nicely to get the passenger side rear plug on my 3.0l Aerostar.

I had pleaded and negotiated with the plug for a few hours over two days, never once getting any turn.

Be bloody, bold and resolute! Shock and Awe.

I peeled the carpet back on passenger side floor, I eyeballed a spot on the firewall across from plug and made a mark. With a 2" metal cutting holesaw, I attacked. In a minute there was a beautiful hole with the spark plug right there. Selected a 5/8" plug socket, a 6" extension and a 3/8" drive short handled ratchet.

Before the plug could get away, I engaged it, turned the ratchet with authority and in seconds it was mine! I smashed it against the concrete with tremendous satisfaction.

A new Autolite into the socket, a few turns to tight and I slid on the wire.

I had a half a can of rubberized undercoat, so I applied to the hole to prevent rust. I also covered the hole with some duct tape on the engine side.

Then to cover up my deed, I put the carpet back in place, attached the cover, quit complaining and cursing and went to the fridge for a beer.

15 minutes to change, including finding the holesaw.

It was the original plug, 183,000 miles. I skipped it before at 100,000 miles.

 

Awesome! Welcome to the forum.

I've never done a 3.0L engine before, but on my 4.0L, I've been able to use combinations of a spark plug socket and open end wrench on the flats on the end of the socket. I've had to get under the van and reach up to get at those last two plugs on either side.

 

I did the same thing only I made the hole 3" and can stick my whole hand in there...lolz!

 

I changed the plugs on my 3.0 in 2006. I found the easiest way to get to the plugs in the back was to jack the van up and take the tire off to get to the plugs.

 

On the 3L you can get to plug #3 from underneath. Pull off the passenger wheel & climb under the wheel well. At the right angle the plug is plainly visible & accessible if your arms are not the size of Arnold Swarzennegers!
The doghouse is possible but a right PIA.
At the time Ford designed the Aero, everyone was replacing their vehicles after 100,000 miles anyhow! Was easy enough putting plugs in on the assembly line!

 

On my AWD, the hard one was the driver-side rear. I too ended up pulling back the carpet, but i used my air-chissel with a sheet metal cutting tool. I had to remove gas pedal first. I cut some sheet metal for a cover and secured it with zip screws when done. I also glued the original insulation to it. I hope this isn't too off-topic, but I once had a Ford Fairmont that had an access cover for the heater core. Remove glove box, remove cover, remove hoses and change core in about 30 minutes. Mercedes provided an access cover for the upper bolt on a starter I once changed. What a concept, designing products that can be easily maintained! An access panel would make fuel pump swaps a lot easier.