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Just bought a 93 eddi baur version explorer front end does not engage. The dealer said a new actuator had been installed. I think electrical this model has push button engagement. It was suggest try to wack the selenoid at the transmision some times this works and also something about box in back panel. i can not find anything about this type in my chiltons manuel.
I have a 94 that is electric shift. There is a motor on the back of the t-case that shifts the t-case into 4 hi and 4 low. You may also have auto locking lock outs. 4 hi should be shift on the fly. That is if you moving say 30 mph or less you can just push the button and it should go ahead and shift. 4 lo requires you stop and hold the brake and put the tranny in nuetral if I remember correctly. Lots of stuff in the electonics to make this happen. Speed sensors, netral safty switch. Not sure if the clutch pedal depression switch has a function. Could be the auto locking lockouts are not working. The electric motor can be removed and the back of the t-case is marked for 2 hi, 4hi, 4 low. You can use that to try to run down if the t-case is shifting or not. You can shift the t-case with a pair of vice grip pliers turning that shaft after the motor is removed.
Do the 4 hi and 4 low lights come on when you push the shift buttons? If you push the shift buttons and the lights on the dash come on solid indicating you have shifted in to 4 hi or 4 lo I would suspect the auto locking lockouts on the wheels.
Last edited by HappyJack; Mar 25, 2007 at 11:38 AM.
I won't pretend to know a lot about this, but when my 94 wouldn't engage 4x4, it was because the automatic hubs were broken, so I replaced them with some warn manual locking hubs.
no radio quit after push nbutton why think electrical
Wish I could help more. But a lot of the new electric stuff is out of my ball park. About the only thing I could think of would be to pull the shift motor and see if it is getting power. Sometimes they go bad. If you are not getting power to the shift motor maybe someone else can help.
I would guess that you would need to check your fuse pannel first. Should be a blown fuse that made your radio not work. If you keep blowing that same fuse I would think there is a short somewhere.
Good luck hope you get it working. As I said before you can remove the shift motor and turn the shaft by hand with vice grips to shift it if you have to have 4x4 soon. The housing is sealed back there and no worrys about keeping dirt out. Just clean it before you put the motor back on.
There's a few things that could be going on, we need a better description of the problem. Whacking at the t-case is only recommended as an emergency fix (i.e. to get you home). If the t-case has been froxen and not used for a while, no amount of whacking is likely to fix it, either.
Are the 4x4 lights coming on when you try to engage?
Do you hear any noises from the transfer case or rear cargo bay?
Have you checked all the fuses and relays, both under the dash and under the hood?
Do a google search for this: BW1354 transfer case motor repair forum
When you get to that site, do some searches for additional info, such as the 4x4 control module (which is located in the cargo bay).
If the lights are not coming on, you need to solve that problem first. Deal with the hubs later (may not be necessary at all).
Incidentally, for a daily driver, there is absoultely nothing wrong with the auto hubs. They do require some maintenance (cleaning and proper lube: ATF not grease), but they should last forever. Mine have 264,000 miles and counting, and I use them all the time in NE.
Make sure that you COMPLETELY DRAIN the auto hubs of the ATF. Leave them upside down overnight. If you do not get all of the ATF out of them it will ruin your bearings.
Based on your answers (no, no no), ignore the hubs at this point. Your t-case is not engaging. Even if you had brand new hubs right now, your problem wouldn't go away.
Do the google search I gave you, and fix your electrical/motor/control module problems first.
When you get to the point that the t-case is engaging (you can hear it and the lights work correctly), then you can focus on the hubs.
I agree with ya mike, he needs to look at the t-case first. The very first step is to make sure that the shift motor is working and not bound up or corroded or whatnot. If the OP isn't comfortable disassembling the motor, autozone has replacement motors for $100 with a 1yr warranty of $130 with a lifetime warranty. I rebuilt my shift motor once but the screws holding the cover plate snapped off and I couldn't get it to seal correctly anymore. I bought a motor from Napa and its the best thing I have done.
Make sure that you COMPLETELY DRAIN the auto hubs of the ATF. Leave them upside down overnight. If you do not get all of the ATF out of them it will ruin your bearings.
What the heck are you talking about? There is no ATF in auto hubs...did someone try to lube them? I may have missed something.
I'm about 95 % sure you need to rebuild your transfercase shift motor. It is really easy and depending upon what has gone wrong, it might just be a tear down and cleaning process. On mine, I had to replace a rubber bushing on the stop cam to keep the motor electronics in a safe position. When this stop cam moves past the right position, the electronics get lost and the push buttons on the dash do nothing.
I have the complete write up on how to fix this and links to the old explorer help pages too. You need to e mail me as this site doesn't like me posting free information - try misterski @ *** dot net with the mister abbreviated. Hope it gets through and remind me what you need.
The ATF is used to clean and lubricate the auto hubs. Basically, fill the hubs, let them soak overnight, drain them and reinstall. It helps to manually push the mechanism in and out while the ATF is in there, this loosens any old grease that may have been placed in there (or migrated there), which gets dirty and tends to bind up the hubs from working correctly.
But, as mentioned, the t-case is the first thing that needs to be fixed on this truck.
The ATF is used to clean and lubricate the auto hubs. Basically, fill the hubs, let them soak overnight, drain them and reinstall. It helps to manually push the mechanism in and out while the ATF is in there, this loosens any old grease that may have been placed in there (or migrated there), which gets dirty and tends to bind up the hubs from working correctly.
But, as mentioned, the t-case is the first thing that needs to be fixed on this truck.
Mike
OK. Still not a "cleaning" method I would recommend. Rather take the assembly apart and individually clean the dirt off the parts and reassmble. The bearings inside are sealed anyways so the ATF wont do anything for them and any residual ATF left behind will just attract more dirt the next time you go off road.