Flatty with no spark
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: New Mexico
Break out the dwell meter and see if you have correct dwell angle and gap at the points. I would look also to see if it is consistent dwell due to distributor shaft wear. You might try hotwiring it (temporarily) also so you know you have voltage to the distributor.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Spark is created when the points open, if you take a screwdriver and break the points from the closed position do you get spark? If not run the driver down against the plate while it is layng against the movable point, and move it away from the arm, did it spark then. If so the points are oxidized and not allowing a circuit to ground thru their contacts. They can be cleaned by running a point file thru them, dont't go crazy as they are only flash coated with tungsten or platinum. If all this fails I would guess you have a bad condenser, which can be checked with an ohm meter. No continuity between the lead and the can. Hope you can understand this and it helps.
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Standish ME
Just put in the new condenser and rotor and still have no spark. What could be going on? could it be the ignition? still havent tryed to hotwire it.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Just for the record, this is stock 6V positive ground, right?
If you have power at the coil (-) terminal, your ignition is probably fine. That's where the coil's power comes from.
You have to determine if you have power at the points. Check the ground wire on the opposite side of the coil (+) terminal, and follow it to the bottom of the distributor. Often times the wire frays inside the distributor and grounds out the moving plate. This causes a no-fire situation at the plugs. All the plugs.
Be sure to do what Kotzy said....but turn the ingition key to 'run' first.
If you have power at the coil (-) terminal, your ignition is probably fine. That's where the coil's power comes from.
You have to determine if you have power at the points. Check the ground wire on the opposite side of the coil (+) terminal, and follow it to the bottom of the distributor. Often times the wire frays inside the distributor and grounds out the moving plate. This causes a no-fire situation at the plugs. All the plugs.
Be sure to do what Kotzy said....but turn the ingition key to 'run' first.
Last edited by mtflat; Apr 17, 2007 at 10:05 AM.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Standish ME
Originally Posted by mtflat
Just for the record, this is stock 6V positive ground, right?
If you have power at the coil (-) terminal, your ignition is probably fine. That's where the coil's power comes from.
You have to determine if you have power at the points. Check the ground wire on the opposite side of the coil (+) terminal, and follow it to the bottom of the distributor. Often times the wire frays inside the distributor and grounds out the moving plate. This causes a no-fire situation at the plugs. All the plugs.
Be sure to do what Kotzy said....but turn the ingition key to 'run' first.
If you have power at the coil (-) terminal, your ignition is probably fine. That's where the coil's power comes from.
You have to determine if you have power at the points. Check the ground wire on the opposite side of the coil (+) terminal, and follow it to the bottom of the distributor. Often times the wire frays inside the distributor and grounds out the moving plate. This causes a no-fire situation at the plugs. All the plugs.
Be sure to do what Kotzy said....but turn the ingition key to 'run' first.
Ya this is a Stock 6 volt + ground
I will try all that this weekend because all this week i have driver's ED! Really really boaring!! but i will keepo you all posted this weekend
thanks for all the help
Alec
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Enjoy driver's ed! I know the classroom stuff can be a drag, but hang in there. I took it 37 years ago and still tell stories from the practical driving experiences. There was Ron, who used to wrap his hand around the top of the wheel - couldn't make a turn very fast without unwinding himself. And Cindy who just could never find 2nd gear in the stick shift car. We'd sit and wait for her car to go first whenever we saw she was driving. 1st to Rev, over and over and the car would start moving only to lurch to a halt amid the sound of metal grinding against metal. (never buy a former d e car) And my instructor ......... ah, you get the idea.
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From: Standish ME
alright just tried to start her up again and still have no spark at the plugs, jsut replaced the points and then tried again still no spark. then we tested the voltage at the coil we have 6 volts from ther battery to the coil. and .39 volts from the coil to the distributor body, is this normal?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,772
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From: Kalispell, MT
You should have about 4.6V out of the coil. Something isn't right. Does the coil have an internal resistor? Or happen to have any other resistors wired into the ignition system?
If not, I'd check your grounds and connections between the coil and dist. Have you checked under the points - that is, under the plate(advance mechanism) for a bare wire?
If not, I'd check your grounds and connections between the coil and dist. Have you checked under the points - that is, under the plate(advance mechanism) for a bare wire?