Trying to remove the whole grill assembly and the radiator support. I noticed that the grill shell is bolted to the front fenders, with aparently the bolt head being inbetween the inner and outer fender. So, can the grill shell and rad support be removed without dismantling the fenders? Can the appron at the bottom of the fender be removed and get access to the bolts that holds the grill shell to the fender?
Any suggestion will be appreciated.

 

I just did this, on my 77, in this order: removed the plastic wheelwell shells, and then the front bumper (to gain access to the bottom screws for the grill shell). Taking out those plastic shells lets you get up into where the flange on the front of the fender screws to the back of the grill shell (if I remember right, there are 3 screws per side). Obviously, it is also necessary to jack it up and take off the front tires.

Then, we removed the plastic grill inserts which gives you better access to the screws that hold the shell to the radiator support. On the top of the fender on each side, there is a triangular plate that bolts to the grill shell and the metal inner fender that needs to come off. That should get the shell off.

Then, we took the radiator fan shroud loose, laid it back against the engine, removed the top and bottom radiator hoses (after we drained the radiator), cleaned up the antifreeze that spilled anyway, and then took loose the bolts down the side of the radiator that hold it to the support and removed it. That lets the shroud come off, and the rest (the radiator support itself), should be fairly easy. You're left with the inner and outer fenders and the ends of the frame sticking out when you are done.

Hope this helps!

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff ! I think I just needed to hear from someone who has done it before !
I was planning to keep the wheels on and not jack up the truck. Will that cause a problem? I think I got enough room underneath the truck to access most of the stuff.

 

Well, we're doing a complete tear-down and restore, so my wheels were coming off anyway. I suppose you could try to avoid that, but until you get those plastic wheel wells out of the way, you can't even see the fender-to-grill screws, I don't think. You may be able to take them loose and shove them back out of your way far enough. I don't know on that. Good luck!

 

Yep....That plasic splash guard will need to come out and you'll have to take your front wheels off. You can then get at all the bolts you'll need to get the grill of. and the Radiator support. How long will your support be off the truck? You don't want to leave just the inner fenders and fenders without the support not being there for too long. Just puts a little stress on the fenders is all because the radiator supports is the main support for the fenders. That's just my .02. Good thing is, your bolts holding everything together is the same size bolt. . Your radiator support mounting bolts usually are a bugger to get off.

 

Yeah, Bucks77, if you're talking about the support-to-frame bolts with the bushings, they take patience, holding your mouth right, patience, throwing the wrench across the garage, patience, watching tv to calm down, and...oh, yeah, did I mention patience????

I had someone hold backup from underneath, and I got on the top with my air impact and a looooooong extension. If they are rusty at all, it will take some time.

 

I was actually able to do get to the grill shell nuts without the wheels off. Had enough space to get my socket and extenstion in.

I am getting ready to take the engine and transmission out as a single unit. So, it will be out for at least couple weeks. Is there anything I need to do to relieve the stress?

I got no impact wrench. So, I had to double up on patience. PB blaster - tap tap tap - muscle flex on the wrench. It took me close to 4 hours just to take the grill, grill shell and the front bumper. The front bumper was an absolute b%$ch. Next attempt will be the rad support.

 

Your stress, or the truck's? Once you get the stuff off the front, it's not too bad taking out the engine and tranny as a unit. You know the definition of an engine hoist? It's the tool you use to test the strength of anything you forgot to unhook before you try to pull the engine out. Don't know what engine you have, but mine is a 351M, and there are three motor mount-to-block bolts on each side, and the one is at the very top of the mount, in the middle, and is almost hidden.

Be sure and take off the carburetor and remove the distributor--those are two things the hoist chains love to mess up.

 

Mine is a 302 with a C6 behind it. I am planning to clean up the engine compartment as best as I can so that the chains don't get a chance to mess anything.
I was actually talking about the stress on the fenders since the rad support will be gone.
I was planning on keeping the exhaust manifolds on and just removing the pipes. I am thinking of hooking the chain up to the manifolds and pull it that way. Good or bad idea?
On a strapped budget - so not much of a chance to buy anything fancy like the carb base mount thing that Jeggs or Summit sells.

 

We used the threaded holes on the front and back of the heads to pull mine. It was very clean that way, with no part of the chains stressing any 'soft' parts. But, different engine, I don't know if it would be the same...If you use the manifolds wouldn't your chains be laying against the valve covers? That might leave a mark.

As for the stress on the fenders, I can't help there, we took all that stuff off first.

 

I wouldn't suggest using the manifolds to pull it.The metal fractures easily,and can break under pressure.I'm with unclestruck.bolt in front one side and rear other of heads.This is the best points for lifting.Just make sure you get your hook as centered as possible to keep the engine fairly level,it will be easier when coming out.Also you canmake a pull plate fairy cheap,if you have a freind or you weld.Good luck.

 

When you do pull the rad support,You will need LOTS of extensions to get you above the rad support (it will save bloody knuckles) and a piece of pipe for extra leverage (home made breaker bar). For the bolts that go through the frame. (also PB blaster them ahead of time) Once it is off and if it will be sitting like that for a couple weeks, I suggest that you DONT open your doors on your truck often.
You could use 2 small ratchet straps and strap the fender back from the front towards the door or cowl to help relieve the stress. Or take another 30 to 45 minutes and just pull the front fenders and inner fenders. Be careful with your wiring (you could take pics to make sure it goes back where it is suppose to)


Dont forget the 2 bolts that bolt one end of the battery box to the rad support.

Wally Womack

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Haven't got a chance to get back to it since last Sunday. Once I take the rad support off, I guess I can take the fends off too if it is just going to be 30 - 45 mins. I will make sure to label and even take pictures.

 

Was able to get my hands on the truck again last weekend. Got the outer fenders off. Rad support is now held by the two PITA bolts that go down to the frame. I had them soaked on PB blaster for couple nights. I snapped one right in the middle ! The other I can see rubber tearing apart. I haven't checked if these are readily available or if I am up the creek. Thoughts??

 

Maybe use a Grinder ?