Engine Swap Radiator Selection Question
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Engine Swap Radiator Selection Question
Somewhere in my truck's (67 F100 2WD) past the original 240cid engine was swapped out for a 1969 351W. Though I love the additional power the engine runs pretty hot.
I got to thinking on this and I believe that the radiator was never upgraded to accommodate the larger engine. Therefore, I would like to know what radiator should I get to cool this larger engine. Since the 351W was not an original option, should I go with the 352cid radiator? Will it bolt right in place w/o any modifications?
Thanks,
Derek
I got to thinking on this and I believe that the radiator was never upgraded to accommodate the larger engine. Therefore, I would like to know what radiator should I get to cool this larger engine. Since the 351W was not an original option, should I go with the 352cid radiator? Will it bolt right in place w/o any modifications?
Thanks,
Derek
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The 352 rad is definitley larger.It should bolt right in.Also does your truck have a fan shroud? This will make a big difference as it allows the fan to pull more air thru the rad.Hope this helps.
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Very few 1965/67 pickups have fan shrouds as original, but I added one to my 65 F100 when I rebuilt the 352 into a 390. I also went to a 4 row radiator. I used this shroud:
D3TZ-8146-C
For junkyarding, the shroud fits 1973/76 F100/350 360 & 390's with std cooling or extra cooling. On the upper left corner of the shroud is the moulded engineering number of: D3TA-DA This shroud bolted on without modification. Make sure to take this engineering number with you when you go, as there are 25 other fan shrouds used in the 1973/79 period, but I know this one will work.
D3TZ-8146-C
For junkyarding, the shroud fits 1973/76 F100/350 360 & 390's with std cooling or extra cooling. On the upper left corner of the shroud is the moulded engineering number of: D3TA-DA This shroud bolted on without modification. Make sure to take this engineering number with you when you go, as there are 25 other fan shrouds used in the 1973/79 period, but I know this one will work.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 01:15 PM.
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From: San Jose , ca
Or, find a radiator shop and have a four tube core set up for your truck, make sure that you max out the fins per inch, and the shroud will also be an asset, if possible an electric fan clutch and good fan will do the job. I did this on my 67 f25 with a huge engine, and never had a problem with heat, ran 195 therostat also.
Fleet Owner
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Derek, The FE radiator is definatly larger, but I would think that the I-6 rad. should not cause one to run hot. I agree with Redcat that a shroud is better but only when ideling. When moving the air flow will be sufficeient.
Have you flushed the system? Checked the thermostat? Again a clean flowing system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water should not run hot with the Stock rad.
Towing would cause one to need more rad. IMHO
John
Have you flushed the system? Checked the thermostat? Again a clean flowing system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water should not run hot with the Stock rad.
Towing would cause one to need more rad. IMHO
John
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1967 240 I-6 standard cooling radiator: 18 29/64" Wide / 18 59/64" High / 1 1/4" Thick
1967 240 I-6 extra cooling radiator: 24" Wide / 18 1/4" High / 1 1/4" Thick
1967 352 V8 std & xtra cooling radiator: 26 1/4" Wide / 19 3/4" High / 1 3/4" Thick
Radiator core support is the same for 240 or 352.
1967 240 I-6 extra cooling radiator: 24" Wide / 18 1/4" High / 1 1/4" Thick
1967 352 V8 std & xtra cooling radiator: 26 1/4" Wide / 19 3/4" High / 1 3/4" Thick
Radiator core support is the same for 240 or 352.
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Thanks everyone. I went out and measured the core of the radiator and it is 26.25" wide and 19.5" tall (didn't measure thickness). Based on the measurements posted above, it sounds like it is the larger 352 version.
The following numbers were also stamped on the radiator:
C8 TA-CK
W MO 69
Can anyone decode these?
I dont have a fan shroud either. The engine is fine for short trips back and forth to Home Depot. But, if I take anywhere for 20 minutes or more it starts to overheat (both moving at freeway speeds and idling).
I guess that I should start with the simplest solution and work my way up.
1) Flush radiator (I did just take a peak inside the cap after running the engine for about 5 minutes. There does appear to be some debris floating in their) Can I get that stuff out with a flush or will the big chunks get stuck in there?
2) thermostat (what temp thermo should I get?, I live in a hot climate, Ft Worth)
3) radiator
4) water pump (I believe that the water pump is only a few years old)
Any other ideas?
Thanks again,
Derek
The following numbers were also stamped on the radiator:
C8 TA-CK
W MO 69
Can anyone decode these?
I dont have a fan shroud either. The engine is fine for short trips back and forth to Home Depot. But, if I take anywhere for 20 minutes or more it starts to overheat (both moving at freeway speeds and idling).
I guess that I should start with the simplest solution and work my way up.
1) Flush radiator (I did just take a peak inside the cap after running the engine for about 5 minutes. There does appear to be some debris floating in their) Can I get that stuff out with a flush or will the big chunks get stuck in there?
2) thermostat (what temp thermo should I get?, I live in a hot climate, Ft Worth)
3) radiator
4) water pump (I believe that the water pump is only a few years old)
Any other ideas?
Thanks again,
Derek
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From: Central Florida
Prestone makes a flush and fill kit to reverse flush the system. Basically you'll blow the junk out of the rad opening.
Run something between 180 and 195 degrees.
replace your coolant cap, pressure is required for the coolant system to function properly and caps fail over time.
Run something between 180 and 195 degrees.
replace your coolant cap, pressure is required for the coolant system to function properly and caps fail over time.
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From: Madison, SD
Might want to take the cap to a parts store and have them check it to make sure it is still working properly.... Are you running a fan shroud? I'm using one of the aftermarket dual pass aluminum radiators on mine and have put them in a number of other cars and trucks. With a good shroud they do a great job of cooling.... Pics in my gallery if you are interested.
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You can get a radiator from one of the pickups with a towing package (I think the larger F-series trucks are the same too?). I have one out of a '76 that I think measures 26" wide and 24" tall. Works great, but I think I may have had to make some simple modifications to get it to bolt up, can't remember exactly and I'm not near my truck now, but it went in without any major problems.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by dcubedus
That does bring up a good question. What pressure rating should my radiator cap be?
My current cap is 12-14lbs.Derek
My current cap is 12-14lbs.Derek
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by moonley
You can get a radiator from one of the pickups with a towing package (I think the larger F-series trucks are the same too?). I have one out of a '76 that I think measures 26" wide and 24" tall. Works great, but I think I may have had to make some simple modifications to get it to bolt up, can't remember exactly and I'm not near my truck now, but it went in without any major problems.
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