but the one that was on the truck and is now has the two post.
click click click
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From: coastal GA.
click click click
Another starting problem!! iI bought a 75 f100 w/ a 300-6 % 3spd manual recently. Drove it home,really no problems then, besides lack of dash and reverse lights.and it does start without pressing the clutch. so far i replaced the ign. module,volt. reg.,starter solenoid, all batt. cables, battery, and clamps. Had the starter & alt. tested at the local parts store,they said they where fine. now i'm getting nothing but a clicking sound from the solenoid(relay).even with a batt. charger set to start it just clicks away. the only other thing i noticed is some of the wiring isn't exactly in the best shape, (the horn relay wires,and it looks to me the fusible links on the solenoidbut dont quote me on the links don't look burned out no wire showing). Without the charger, the headlights are bright,even the radio works, so what else is there???????????
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Clicking solenoid usually means one of two things. Weak battery or bad solenoid. Other issues could be teeth missing from the starter ring gear. On a stickshift, the ring gear is replaceable. On an auto, the flywheel (flexplate) must be replaced. Faulty wiring a possibility too.
Have the battery tested by a shop to verify it's good. Since most new batteries are wet charged, they may sit around for years before they are used. So, just because the battery may be new, that doesn't mean it's any good. If the battery is completely dead, it will take a normal charger at least an hour to recharge it..a trickle charger takes much longer. You may have a short that's draining the battery. First thing---have the battery tested.
Have the battery tested by a shop to verify it's good. Since most new batteries are wet charged, they may sit around for years before they are used. So, just because the battery may be new, that doesn't mean it's any good. If the battery is completely dead, it will take a normal charger at least an hour to recharge it..a trickle charger takes much longer. You may have a short that's draining the battery. First thing---have the battery tested.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 05:33 AM.
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From: coastal GA.
Well i have used the battery from 2 other running cars, so the battery probably isn't the case,i don't think it's the ring gear either, you don't hear the starter kick out at all.So i was thinking the same thing about the solenoid. well i guess it's off to the parts store again,try another solenoid. then on to the wiring issues. thanks for your help.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by duke1992lx
Well i have used the battery from 2 other running cars, so the battery probably isn't the case,i don't think it's the ring gear either, you don't hear the starter kick out at all.So i was thinking the same thing about the solenoid. well i guess it's off to the parts store again,try another solenoid. then on to the wiring issues. thanks for your help.
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I concur.
Battery condition,Cable grounds,faulty starter relay (solenoid) or starter drive in the starter is locked up.
Remove the starter and bench test it to verify it works properly
Battery condition,Cable grounds,faulty starter relay (solenoid) or starter drive in the starter is locked up.
Remove the starter and bench test it to verify it works properly
Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 24, 2007 at 06:01 PM.
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From: outside Cohasset MN
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Clean and inspect both battery cables (free) before you buy parts! Dirty and or loose cables will cause your problems.
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From: coastal GA.
i normally replace all those parts when i buy a old vehicle, i have cleaned all connections put alittle oil on the posts. I'm thinking it the ign. switch not working properly. i unplugged the switch,and jumped the starter and it was ready to start.spinning over like a champ, but as soon as i plugged it back in---click,click,click.
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Not everyone is rich .....to replace still GOOD working parts.
I only replace parts that are defective.
I like to help save people money.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Topic,
Sounds like a defective starter relay.
All the ignition switch does during start is send a 12V signal of power to the starter relay.
What happens of you use a jumper wire from the + post of the battery directly to the S terminal of the relay ?
How much power is at the connector (disconnected) that hooks up to the S terminal when you turn the key to start?
I only replace parts that are defective.
I like to help save people money.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Topic,
Sounds like a defective starter relay.
All the ignition switch does during start is send a 12V signal of power to the starter relay.
What happens of you use a jumper wire from the + post of the battery directly to the S terminal of the relay ?
How much power is at the connector (disconnected) that hooks up to the S terminal when you turn the key to start?
Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 25, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
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From: coastal GA.
I am by no way rich- but i have already replaced the one with a new one, bought another relay, thinking the first(new) one was bad. funny thing is i converted a fuel injection 4cyl mustang into a carbed v8 with less problems than this. i have owned the truck for about a month and a half and haven't put 20 miles on it yet. so tomorrow i will go out and try cleaning all connections, moveing grounds. this wasn't suppose to be a project truck till after other projects where done--but i will do the jumper check again-thanks.
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From: Jackson,Tn
sounds like the starter is locked up , mine does it ever once in a while and i can take it off and get it fixed for about $10 ...he takes it apart and buts all new bearings and stuff in it ...but im pretty sure thats yer problem ...i thought it was my selinoid to and i put 3 or 4 on it and it was the starter ....hope this helps
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by duke1992lx
it will crank it if i put it right to the battery though
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Originally Posted by duke1992lx
it will crank it if i put it right to the battery though
I want to know what it does like the way I suggested as shown in picture above.