I Need Egr Help!!!
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Livermore, Ca.
I Need Egr Help!!!
Hi Everyone,
I bought a 1978 f150 351m, 2bbl, 4x4, automatic with fed smog. I went to have it smogged ( I live in California) and what a nightmare. Hoses had bb’s in them and the vacuum amp and back pressure amp were not working ($358.00 for these two parts) and I failed smog (nox to high). After parts and labor I passed the smog inspection ($769.04). GREAT, NOT. Now the truck runs like crap when I start up in the morning. I guess something in the vacuum system is opening the EGR valve. I know this because a disconnect the EGR hose and plugged it and it runs fine at start-up. OK, my question to you knowledgeable people is what is letting the EGR valve open when the engine is cold???
I bought a 1978 f150 351m, 2bbl, 4x4, automatic with fed smog. I went to have it smogged ( I live in California) and what a nightmare. Hoses had bb’s in them and the vacuum amp and back pressure amp were not working ($358.00 for these two parts) and I failed smog (nox to high). After parts and labor I passed the smog inspection ($769.04). GREAT, NOT. Now the truck runs like crap when I start up in the morning. I guess something in the vacuum system is opening the EGR valve. I know this because a disconnect the EGR hose and plugged it and it runs fine at start-up. OK, my question to you knowledgeable people is what is letting the EGR valve open when the engine is cold???
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Sound like it is not hooked uo right. It sould have a vacume hose from the carb (only gets vacume when you give it gas) to a ported vacume switch, then to the EGR valve. The vac. switch will be in the intake or thermostat housing and only open up after the engine has warmed up. It sounds like yours is running off maniflod vacume letting it stay open at idle.
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From: Oregon
Here's the best picture I've seen so far of the vacuum system on the 351M/400.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/ihateminimumwage/351M400x2-1.jpg
Follow the hoses labeled 3 & 4 (print the picture out, and take it with you as you're working on it)
The old Ford vacuum diagrams are good (the one in the hood, or Chiltons/Haynes), but confusing when you're starting out. I ripped out all of my vacuum lines, bought a bunch of new hose (it's super cheap) and redid my whole system from scratch. Haven't had a problem since.
I feel your pain on the Cali smog...
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/ihateminimumwage/351M400x2-1.jpg
Follow the hoses labeled 3 & 4 (print the picture out, and take it with you as you're working on it)
The old Ford vacuum diagrams are good (the one in the hood, or Chiltons/Haynes), but confusing when you're starting out. I ripped out all of my vacuum lines, bought a bunch of new hose (it's super cheap) and redid my whole system from scratch. Haven't had a problem since.
I feel your pain on the Cali smog...
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; Mar 23, 2007 at 09:41 PM.
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Your vacuum diagram calibration code is 7-72-R11
see here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...136674&width=2
EGR system
see here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...136674&width=2
EGR system
Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 23, 2007 at 11:39 PM.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Your vacuum diagram calibration code is 7-72-R11
see here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...136674&width=2
see here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...136674&width=2
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
CA only diagram. It doesn't matter where the truck was made, if it's in CA, it must meet CA standards. Welcome to California!!
D3FZ-12A091-A .. Ported Vacuum Switch (Motorcraft DY-135) Color code black & white.
Dennis, you are amazing..the Numero Uno FTE member of the millenium!
D3FZ-12A091-A .. Ported Vacuum Switch (Motorcraft DY-135) Color code black & white.
Dennis, you are amazing..the Numero Uno FTE member of the millenium!
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:12 AM.
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From: Oregon
I kinda figured that, but no harm in asking. The 49 State/Canada diagram seemed a little too simple than when I did mine...
(I passed Cali with flying colors with a new CAT)
(I passed Cali with flying colors with a new CAT)
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New User
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That's a question for the california chapter.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
Ie: truck bought and used in a Fed jurisdicition for years then used for by student in school in Calif for say 2 years...it doesn't need CA smog.,
If he does need the code and diagram for a Calif truck.
It is one of the 8-60S-??? numbers
In my gallery.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
Ie: truck bought and used in a Fed jurisdicition for years then used for by student in school in Calif for say 2 years...it doesn't need CA smog.,
If he does need the code and diagram for a Calif truck.
It is one of the 8-60S-??? numbers
In my gallery.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:12 AM.
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Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
That's a question for the california chapter.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Ie: truck bought and used in a Fed jurisdicition for years then used for by student in school in Calif for say 2 years...it doesn't need CA smog
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
That's a question for the california chapter.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
Ie: truck bought and used in a Fed jurisdicition for years then used for by student in school in Calif for say 2 years...it doesn't need CA smog.,
If he does need the code and diagram for a Calif truck.
It is one of the 8-60S-??? numbers
In my gallery.
I know Licensing of the truck is critical to it.
Ie: truck bought and used in a Fed jurisdicition for years then used for by student in school in Calif for say 2 years...it doesn't need CA smog.,
If he does need the code and diagram for a Calif truck.
It is one of the 8-60S-??? numbers
In my gallery.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:21 AM.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
"Anything to make a buck" should be the state motto..
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage
Not only on the smog front, but overall that's the feeling I get from all of SoCal and a good portion of NorCal...
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:32 AM.
Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
It's all the liberal transplants that have ruined the state. Fact: every time a major earthquake occurs, 1000's flee the state...maybe we need one a month!
Sorry, don't want to lead to us pulling a thread hijack
...
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:45 AM.
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From: Murray
Nope,
I say we all renounce our "NEW" cars and trucks and drive around in gas hogging, smog exempt -gross poluters and stick it to em! lol But on topic....the EGR should open and close...its when its stuck one way or the other that you run into issues (sound like yours is just stuck open all the time). Personally, I would simply get a carb spacer and take the sucker off in between smog tests...then when they hit you for one slap it back on.
-Chris
I say we all renounce our "NEW" cars and trucks and drive around in gas hogging, smog exempt -gross poluters and stick it to em! lol But on topic....the EGR should open and close...its when its stuck one way or the other that you run into issues (sound like yours is just stuck open all the time). Personally, I would simply get a carb spacer and take the sucker off in between smog tests...then when they hit you for one slap it back on.
-Chris
Last edited by 73f350sc; Mar 24, 2007 at 12:52 AM.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by 73f350sc
Nope,
I say we all renounce our "NEW" cars and trucks and drive around in gas hogging, smog exempt -gross poluters and stick it to em! lol But on topic....the EGR should open and close...its when its stuck one way or the other that you run into issues (sound like yours is jsut stuck open all the time). Personally, I would simply get a carb spacer and take the sucker off in between smog tests...then when they hit you for one slap it back on.
-Chris
I say we all renounce our "NEW" cars and trucks and drive around in gas hogging, smog exempt -gross poluters and stick it to em! lol But on topic....the EGR should open and close...its when its stuck one way or the other that you run into issues (sound like yours is jsut stuck open all the time). Personally, I would simply get a carb spacer and take the sucker off in between smog tests...then when they hit you for one slap it back on.
-Chris