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Ok so I got my bad motor and my donor motor pulled. The donor was out of a '76 F100 and mine is a '78 F150. The donor sat for about 10 years so I am taking it down and boiling it and rebuilding it cheap and dirty. It only had 86k when it was parked. Nothing wrong, my grandpa just got it for $100 because the person didnt know the clutch pedal just came unhooked. Anyone got any recommendations while I got the motor out to fix/improve? I dont have a lot of money school/kid on the way.
I had a bad motor mount on the driver side and my clutch was starting to go so I got those covered. New rings/gaskets as well.
The 300 was suposed to respond very well to big valves. While you are tinkering, check out clifford performance, they specialized in the I6's. I have had a couple of thier headers and it's good stuff.
Clifford is good, but you can do things way cheaper.
Late model EFI manifolds instead of Clifford headers.
Offenhauser intake instead of Clifford.
Any carb change. Motorcraft 2150 is supposed to be great.
Melling toruqe cam, Crane 260H, all good stuff.
And yes, larger valves do make a difference. SBC, I think.
Best bang/buck? Used Offy/clifford intake, used EFI manifolds, and a rebuilt 2150 (1.08 venturi).
I don't know if my classified is still up, but I have a set of cliffords headers sitting in my office. If you are looking for a set, I might have a deal for you.
With bigger valves would I need any work done on the head? I have got a machine to grind the valves but no experience on it.
What is the chance the Motorcraft 2150 came off a '77 M Block? I have 2 of those laying around. One is all f'd up and rusted out but the other should be usable. I will have to look at it next time I am around the farm.
Yeah, M-motors came with 2150s. There should be a number stamped on the side of the carb indicating the venturi size- 1.08 was the most common, but there are others. The 1.08 carb is around 300-350CFM, which is perfect for a 300 on an open plenum intake.
Bigger valves = head work. Larger bowls and new valve seats. As long as you're doing that work, port the head as well. There some good threads around on a "correct" port job. Search around. Col Flashman could probably tell you exactly what to do.
If you don't want to do head work, but are doing lifters/pushrods/springs kind of stuff, a camshaft is a great way to go (even better with head work, too, but you said you're on a budget). I'll be putting a Crane 260H dual-pattern cam in my truck with an Offy dual-plane, larger carb and EFI manifolds.
Has anyone ever made a 2 bbl to 1 bbl adapter before? I need to make this cheap and quick because I will need the truck before the end of april and as I am in school I have limited time to work on things and even get back to the truck to drop the motor in.
I can do some pretty decent tooling/metalworking so I think I would be able to do it. The only reason that I would rather make one than buy one is money is really really tight.
Trans-dapt makes a 2 to 1 adapter. you can get them from summit for $30-$40, i cant remember exactly. i dont know too much about them, im kinda lookin' into one myself. if anyone knows more that'd be great.