Brake problems: A new twist
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Moro Bay, AR
Brake problems: A new twist
94 F250 7.3 IDI N/A E4OD
Ever since I bought this truck, the Brake warning light and ABS light would come on sometimes when applying the brakes. It would stay lit until the ignition was turned off.
One day when I made a quick stop with heavy pedal pressure, the rear brakes wouldn't release. I had to drive it home with the brakes dragging. Figured it was a collapsed brake hose, so I replaced it. Today while towing 10K to the scrap yard, I had to apply the brakes pretty hard, the rear brakes are dragging again.
The brake pedal doesn't seem to go as far down, so that tells me the rear wheel cylinders have pressure on them. Is this a problem with the ABS valve on the frame? I'm used to air brakes on big trucks, and have never dealt with ABS on hydraulic brakes, so I need some assistance here.
Thanks for any help, Jeff
Ever since I bought this truck, the Brake warning light and ABS light would come on sometimes when applying the brakes. It would stay lit until the ignition was turned off.
One day when I made a quick stop with heavy pedal pressure, the rear brakes wouldn't release. I had to drive it home with the brakes dragging. Figured it was a collapsed brake hose, so I replaced it. Today while towing 10K to the scrap yard, I had to apply the brakes pretty hard, the rear brakes are dragging again.
The brake pedal doesn't seem to go as far down, so that tells me the rear wheel cylinders have pressure on them. Is this a problem with the ABS valve on the frame? I'm used to air brakes on big trucks, and have never dealt with ABS on hydraulic brakes, so I need some assistance here.
Thanks for any help, Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Huntington Indiana
When you shut off the engine. You are resetting the ABS system. If you can get a haynes repair manual 36058 this info is on page 9-17. It explains on how to get the codes and what they mean. Way too long to post.
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From: Moro Bay, AR
Originally Posted by bigredtruckmi
If you can get a haynes repair manual 36058 this info is on page 9-17. It explains on how to get the codes and what they mean.
I don't know where you got your Haynes manual, but the 36058 I picked up at A-zone is a joke. It gives a brief description of the ABS system but doesn't go into any details at all. A total waste of $20.
I got out in the street tonight, but couldn't get the brakes to do it again, no matter how hard I pressed the pedal. Took 10-15 presses to make the ABS and brake warning light come on. When I went to A-zone, it came on the first time I touched the pedal.
How much does the ABS valve on the frame cost? Or would it be better to just replace it with a union? I have driven for 30 years without ABS, don't know why I can't keep on without it.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Moro Bay, AR
Originally Posted by bigredtruckmi
On my page 9-18 is almost a full page of codes and pin connections expected values, etc. ISBN 1563922134 number below isbn is 799-1165
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From: Huntington Indiana
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: New Jersey
I had this problem on mine. The ABS valve on the frame was all corroded and siezed up. It's fairly easy to disassemble and clean. Just keep the internal components in order or make a quick drawing for a guide to reinstalling them.
On the end opposite from the end that the brake lines connect to, there is a piston beneath a threaded cap. If you are unable to get this piston out by pulling it, you can press it out from inside. Here's the important part, though: If you need to press it out from the other end of the valve, you need a small diameter drift punch to tap it out. There is only a small hole that leads to the cavity where the piston is inserted. The metal around the hole is part of the ABS valve body.
Clean it out and remove any rust/corrosion with emory cloth. Make sure there's no grit left over from the emory cloth. Brake cleaner spray is good for flushing it out.
On the end opposite from the end that the brake lines connect to, there is a piston beneath a threaded cap. If you are unable to get this piston out by pulling it, you can press it out from inside. Here's the important part, though: If you need to press it out from the other end of the valve, you need a small diameter drift punch to tap it out. There is only a small hole that leads to the cavity where the piston is inserted. The metal around the hole is part of the ABS valve body.
Clean it out and remove any rust/corrosion with emory cloth. Make sure there's no grit left over from the emory cloth. Brake cleaner spray is good for flushing it out.
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by matts156
I had this problem on mine.............................................. ............................... Brake cleaner spray is good for flushing it out.