Rebuild transmission trouble!!!
#1
Rebuild transmission trouble!!!
Just bought a 2000 ranger 4.0, 4x4 XLT with 87k ml, and the dealer a bought it from, had the transmision rebuild in a trany shop!
On the test drive is seamed ok, since a never drove a truck or a ranger before. I was smart enough to have a 7 day full warrany on powertrain!
In my first day around town ca. 200 miles, I had more time to see how crapy it's really shifting:
-The 1st gear seams to long, but is the only one with "Pick-up power"
-The next shift feels very long like going right to 3rd or 4th, rpm drop to
1500- 2200
-No overdrive at all, on the highway I put the pedal to the metal...
and nothing!!! It's just trying to climb up the rpm's!
So far they checked for any err. codes (nothing) and i've got an appointment with the trany shop on Thu.
My mileage looks like 12-13 mpg (80% @65 hwy ,20% traffic jam)
Any ideas???
And how good should a 4.0 v6 auto. feel like??? I know very subjective question, but i expect a subjective answer!
Thanks
Daniel
On the test drive is seamed ok, since a never drove a truck or a ranger before. I was smart enough to have a 7 day full warrany on powertrain!
In my first day around town ca. 200 miles, I had more time to see how crapy it's really shifting:
-The 1st gear seams to long, but is the only one with "Pick-up power"
-The next shift feels very long like going right to 3rd or 4th, rpm drop to
1500- 2200
-No overdrive at all, on the highway I put the pedal to the metal...
and nothing!!! It's just trying to climb up the rpm's!
So far they checked for any err. codes (nothing) and i've got an appointment with the trany shop on Thu.
My mileage looks like 12-13 mpg (80% @65 hwy ,20% traffic jam)
Any ideas???
And how good should a 4.0 v6 auto. feel like??? I know very subjective question, but i expect a subjective answer!
Thanks
Daniel
#2
I've had my Ranger trans rebuilt twice in 3 mos. Any automatic should not do what yours is doing. The shifts should be smooth, but a little crisp because it is a truck. It should not stay in first or second gear long at all. On mine, it stays in 3rd somewhat longer before the torque converter locks up. The next shift point is O/D or 4th gear.
On a warmed up engine and a flat grade with a light pressure on the accelerator, I would say the shift points should be approx:
1 -2 shift 15 - 20 mph
2 -3 shift 25 - 30 mph
T/C lock-up 40 - 45 mph
3 - 4 (O/D) shift 50 -55 mph
First thing is check the trans fluid on the dipstick while the engine is warm and idling in Park. It should be a nice semi-transparent red colour. It should have only a slightly oily smell. If it is dark or cloudy, or if it has a burnt smell, you may have serious transmission problems.
If the fluid checks out OK, then there is still something wrong, but may not be too serious.
Just a caution.... if the transmission performance deteriorates at all, you may not be able to wait until Thurs if you still need to drive it. If the internals are slipping, overheating and disintegrating, then the whole transmission will get contaminated with the debris and the trans could stop moving the truck. The transmission shop or the dealer may try to wiggle out of warranty because you drove it knowing that it was getting worse. Remember that your warranty is officially with the dealer, so if the trans starts to get worse or you find that the fluid is bad, put the dealer on the spot immediately as to what you should do ie. stop driving it and leave the truck at the dealership for them to haggle with the trans shop. Don't deal with the trans shop yourself..... they didn't rebuild the trans for you, they rebuilt it for the dealer.
On a warmed up engine and a flat grade with a light pressure on the accelerator, I would say the shift points should be approx:
1 -2 shift 15 - 20 mph
2 -3 shift 25 - 30 mph
T/C lock-up 40 - 45 mph
3 - 4 (O/D) shift 50 -55 mph
First thing is check the trans fluid on the dipstick while the engine is warm and idling in Park. It should be a nice semi-transparent red colour. It should have only a slightly oily smell. If it is dark or cloudy, or if it has a burnt smell, you may have serious transmission problems.
If the fluid checks out OK, then there is still something wrong, but may not be too serious.
Just a caution.... if the transmission performance deteriorates at all, you may not be able to wait until Thurs if you still need to drive it. If the internals are slipping, overheating and disintegrating, then the whole transmission will get contaminated with the debris and the trans could stop moving the truck. The transmission shop or the dealer may try to wiggle out of warranty because you drove it knowing that it was getting worse. Remember that your warranty is officially with the dealer, so if the trans starts to get worse or you find that the fluid is bad, put the dealer on the spot immediately as to what you should do ie. stop driving it and leave the truck at the dealership for them to haggle with the trans shop. Don't deal with the trans shop yourself..... they didn't rebuild the trans for you, they rebuilt it for the dealer.
Last edited by chbtech; 03-24-2007 at 10:21 AM.
#3
If it was a good transmission shop they would have given a good warranty with the rebuild. A seven day warranty sounds like they did a cheesy job. When I got my A4LD rebuilt the local shop gave me a 12mo/12000 mile warranty. The 4.0 should give you a good amount of get up and go even with a 4x4. My 2wd 91 4.0, A4LD supercab has plenty of power even with 180k on it. It could be your trans is sucking down all the engine power or there are other issues with the engine. If it hasn't been too long, I would try to get out of the sale. Or go to the Better Business Bureau and get a lawyer. There's no sense in buying a headache like that when it doesn't have very many miles on it. If you want a good comparison go, to a Ford dealer that has a used 4.0 automatic 4x4 for sale and take it for a test drive. It should show you what they should be like when they run like they are supposed to.
#4
Some improvement...
I was just looking under the hood, you know how!... just looking for trouble, and i thought let's see how the air filter looks like....whoooooooaaatttt???
That thing wasn't white anymore, it was almost kompl. black and really heavy with dust!
Pullt up to advance auto parts and got their high flow air filter and some fuel injector cleaner.
Dropt it in right on the spot and the engine sounded already much better than before, i mean really better!
I know normally when i changed my filters, no big deal, i guess just the reg. subjective improvement...but now this time really changed like day & night!
Even the shifting points where better and the "pick-up"...on this pick-up...
nice!
After a couple of miles down the road, going steady 50 mph no vibrations, hissing, or vaccum seak like noise anymore just like a cat under the hood!
I will still let the transmition shop check all the gears, but this time much relaxter than before!
And by the way my MPG, even before the filter change was 16 MPG, which i guess sounds normal.
I'll keep you guyz posted!
Daniel
That thing wasn't white anymore, it was almost kompl. black and really heavy with dust!
Pullt up to advance auto parts and got their high flow air filter and some fuel injector cleaner.
Dropt it in right on the spot and the engine sounded already much better than before, i mean really better!
I know normally when i changed my filters, no big deal, i guess just the reg. subjective improvement...but now this time really changed like day & night!
Even the shifting points where better and the "pick-up"...on this pick-up...
nice!
After a couple of miles down the road, going steady 50 mph no vibrations, hissing, or vaccum seak like noise anymore just like a cat under the hood!
I will still let the transmition shop check all the gears, but this time much relaxter than before!
And by the way my MPG, even before the filter change was 16 MPG, which i guess sounds normal.
I'll keep you guyz posted!
Daniel
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