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Is there any way to move the steering box to outside the frame? I have a 74 F250 Crew cab with a closed knuckle dana 60 and need to move the steering box outside the frame for extra clearance. Thanks.
1/2 ton 4wds used a steering box that was located on the outside of the frame infront of the motor. but im guessing you have the power assist steering and i wouldnt have a clue how to adapt it over.
I have a 76 that used to have a power assist and I changed it to a gear box from a 79 it still sits inside the frame but if you can find a doner truck and mount it on the outside you will notice a huge differance in the ability of your truck
I believe the reason for the F250 4x4 steering box mounts to the inside because of the pitman arm and drag link setup under the front leaf springs. I don't think it will work if the box is mounted to the outside. The leaf spring would be in the way. Have you read this thread?
That article still ends up with the steering box on the inside. I once saw a pic of one mounted to the top of the frame rail, and that might work for me. Just don't know what it was out of.
Here's a solution, or what I did. I built my mud racer out of my 77 F250 crew cab high boy. It's an 80 single cab shortbed now, long story. It had the assist cylinder on the axle and the drag link with the 4 hose under the drivers side fender. (I still have it all if anyone want's it) The one thing I wanted was tractor pull headers coming out the hood. And I didn't care what it was going to take to make it happen. But I knew I was gonna have to scrap the steering box on the inside of the frame. The steering shaft pointed right at the headers. Not to mention, it would barely turn my 35's much less the 39.5 boggers I was going to. So I got to thinking.....this is where it gets bad....All the Chevy guys seem to have great steering. And their boxes are on the outside of the frame......So I got a steering box off a 79 2 wheel drive 1 ton chevy truck.. Grafted it to the outside of the frame and made a custom shaft to connect it to the steerign wheel. Then I got a highsteer arm for the passenger side, and a drop pitman arm and connected them with a junk yard tie rod. Since I wanted to keep the Ford pump, I went to my local parts store and had them make me hoses that had fittings for the Ford pump, and Chevy steering box. And POOF!!! Crossover steering!! And now I can turn my big boggers at a dead idle on dirt. Anyway, if you need more details or anything, I'll elaborate more the next go round. Hope that helps.
Sweet deal. Thats what I was wanting to know. Even though I hate the thought of using a chevy part on a Ford, its better than the toyota box (only one I could find on the outside of the frame) that I was planning on using. Where did you get the high steer arm and drop pitman? I have a local metal shop that can make a tie rod.
Use the 76-79 F-150 78-79 Bronco box on the out side of the frame, and run the crossover steering.
Thats what Im going to do. I have seen it done before and mocked it up myself and it will work. Also you can use a stock steering shaft, you might have to shorten it a little. The halfton gear rolls up on top of the frame for a good steering shaft angle. Ive seen the GM boxes mounted on the outside of the frame on a Ford and I dident like the steering shaft angle at all. If you do anything GM go with the GM pump, its way better than the ford pump.
Leadmic
I guess all the articles I've read refer to the early 70s F250 2wd box and the 78-79 F250 4x4 box to mount inside to make it easier. But, I have not done this YET. Good to know there are other options.
Curious: why the need for extra clearance for your steering box?
Thanks, a long road to go. Getting the engine in there isn't all that hard, its figuring out the little things that is taking forever. I need to create a gallery so I can get some pics up.
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