I flat towed a 4,000 lb 1972 Olds Cutlass with a 1980 Dodge D50 (2.6L 4 cyl-5spd man trans) about 30 miles over city streets back in the mid 90's. I would guess the 2.3L Ford engine would have been able to do the same thing. I did not break any land speed records, but it worked, and that was using the bumper mounted hitch ball and a U-Haul towbar.

 

1st gear with the manual on the 2.3L/3.0L is 3.72
1st gear with the manual on the 4.0L is 3.40

 

hey ranger,
i have a 17.5 flats boat, motor, and boat and gear around 1700lbs, my magictilt trailer im not sure how much it weighs but maybe around a k, i have a 4.0 auto 4x4 and due pretty well towing, but florida is pretty much flat so i dont contend with hills just bridges to climb, and she does pretty well.
i was looking in my manual over the weekend it doesnt have my tremor listed but from what im told on here its the "sport", it was funny in the diagram it showed that the fx4 model towes about 300lbs less than what i can tow.

 

<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=1 width=480 border=1><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399></TD><TD vAlign=top width="24%" bgColor=#333399 colSpan=2>2.3L DOHC I-4

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="24%" bgColor=#333399 colSpan=2>3.0L OHV V-6

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="26%" bgColor=#333399 colSpan=2>4.0L SOHC V-6

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>Gear Ratios
1<SUP nd="62">st</SUP>

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">3.72:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.47:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">3.72:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.47:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">3.40:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">2.47:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>2<SUP nd="70">nd</SUP>

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.20:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.85:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.20:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.85:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">2.05:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.85:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>3<SUP nd="78">rd</SUP>

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.50:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.47:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.50:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.47:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.31:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.47:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>4<SUP nd="86">th</SUP>

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.00:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.00:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.00:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.00:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.00:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.00:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>5<SUP nd="94">th</SUP>

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">0.79:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">0.75:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">0.79:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">0.75:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">0.79:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">0.75:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>Reverse

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">3.40:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.10:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">3.40:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">2.10:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">3.40:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">2.10:1

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="25%" bgColor=#333399>Converter

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">-

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.80:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">-

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="12%">1.80:1

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">-

</TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">1.80:1

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Ok, good for you . I found the chart showing that the 4.0L manual app. has a 1st gear ratio of 3.40:1. But, if you read the post, rangerguy52 said he had the 3.0 which has a 3.72:1 ratio. But that's besides the point, The manuals have a lower gear ratio throughout the range. This would lead one to think that it should handle higher loads.

Bigrigfixer was right on the money. The planetary gear setup in the automatics put more gears(I don't know how many) on the output gears, distributing load through several contact surfaces. Think about it. He's a big rig fixer. The two countershaft setup was a breakthrough for the 'big rig' industry. It reduced weight while preseving load capacity. The torque converter may contribute to the higher loads that automatics can haul, I don't know. But the specs are the specs.

The admin. has chimed in on other threads about advocating overloading the vehicles on highways. He doesn't seem to like it. OK, It'll haul a lot more weight if you run the gear so-so. But be warned, there are two issues that someone has to consider. Safety and mechanical.

Safety- Considering the fact that the max load for a Ranger is just under 6000lbs(depending of course on wether it's a super cab), if you have the 10" brakes on the back and their is no difference in the front disks from model to model, you probably would be able to stop safely on the highway if you follow all precautions, even though it's a manual. The DMV might have a problem if they pull you over for inspection.

Mechanical- According to the manufacturer, you can't overload the vehicle, regardless if you have a manual or automatic transmission. If it's a warranty claim, and they have evidence that it was overloaded(towing company testimony), kiss the claim goodbye. If it's out of warranty, it's up to you whether you want to chance it, mechanically speaking. But again, I don't know what the DMV is like in the states, but in Canada, they will pull your plates and issue a ticket for overloading beyond factory specs. Inspection stops are common these days let alone insurance issues if the worst happens.

For rippin' around the farm, all is good. For towing a 1500lb boat on a 700lb trailer with a 3.0L manual out on the highway? No problem !!!! Have fun with the boat Rangerguy52.

Fred

 

And I quite clearly said the 3.40 ratio was for the 4.0L. If we're talking max towing ratings for the Ranger, the 4.0L is the only way to go.

If you had clearly read my post, you would have seen where I said I meant no offense to bigrigfixr and was merely stating that I prefered manual to auto for towing. Manuals can take it better, they are much less prone to heat damage, easier to fix, and MUCH cheaper should anything ever go wrong that requires complete overhaul or replacement.

It's absolutely stupid to overload any vehicle, auto or manual, no matter what the engine size is. For a properly loaded vehicle however (both in maximum weights and balance), the manual takes the cake for ease of towing larger loads due to it's better gearing, straight through design (no converter), and much less heat output.

For a 1500 lb boat, it hardly matters. With the 3.0L he probably won't notice it's there until he hits the brakes.

 

ranger is telling it how it is. granted there have been huge improvements in the autos and now they are the only option you can get in some trucks. i pulled 2500 pounds 180 miles when i moved with my 3.0l and auto so that boat will be no problem. as for stopping i didnt have any problems. you should be fine.

it was 90 + out when i pulled that load and i did have to keep an eye on my tranny temp. i have a guage on mine but i think the 1500 should be fine, just dont shift into OD

Matt

 

Thanks for the info, I just remembered late last night that I used my old 86 ranger with the 2.0 manual 3.73 gears to move a boat around the house that was about 750 pounds heavier then my current boat. I think that the 3.0 with the 4.10 gears should be just fine.

Mike

 

The 4.10 gearing and auto tranny is what makes this work. After towing boats and other trailers for many years you learn that torque converters multiply torque. That's what almost every trailering/boating magazine will recommend an auto tranny.

I've towed with both autos and manuals. No comparrison to me - the auto tranny wins hands down.

I'll agree with some others here - at 1500 pounds with your setup, you're good to go. Braking would be my biggest concern.

CMOS

 

I want to know why the 2000 3.0 5spd manual doesn't kick forward, when I released the clutch, and my older 94, 2.3 5spd manual had a better braking
on the clutch, you can actually feel the truck slow down, and the 2000, 3.0 keeps on going smooth no jerking like an automatic, it's this normal or needs repair?
Thanks............

 

I don't really understand much about axle ratios and towing capacities.
So can someone give me a straight answer of what's safe to tow with a 2000
xtra cab 2wd 3.0L, 5 spd manual, 3 73 axle, I'm not looking for the maximum towing, I don't want to change axle or the trany, so what you guys would recommend if I want to tow a boat taking everything in consideration like towing uphills, back in up pulling from to a boat ramp, etc?
The bumper is rated #2000/200, is this the max total weight for this truck?
A 16 ft fiberglass boat with 100hp motor, how's the truck gonna handle this size boat, again taking in consideration different driving conditions?
Thanks.......................

 

If the bumper is rated at 200/2,000 than you can tow a 2,000lb load with a tongue weight of 200lbs. As for rear axle ratios and towing capacity. Think of it as riding a ten speed bicycle. Starting off from a stop in first gear allows you to accelerate quicker, than starting off in 5th gear because of the torque multiplication of the lower gear. If you have a 3.73 rear axle ratio then you would be able to tow a 2,000lb load much easier than if you had a 3.55 or 3.08 ratio. All else being equal the 3.08 geared truck would get better fuel mileage, and theoretically have a higher top speed, but the 3.55 or 3.73 geared truck would be better suited to towing, and getting that load underway.

 

cadriver, you will not have any problems. Be careful with braking and getting back up the ramp with the boat.

 

Thanks again guys!
I have another Q: When towing as much as the bumper limit which is #2000
Do I need to have brakes on the trailer?
Do trailer brakes help when backing or pulling the boat from the ramp? Cuz my truck is a 2wd.

I've been thinking how can you have a #2000 load weight with only #200 tongue? Is there anything that you know weights that much and it has only #200 tongue, that tongue weight looks too light to me for a #2000 load

 

Balance it over the axle.

My '94 manual suggests trailer brakes for any trailer over 1500 lbs. I've towed more than that and never used trailer brakes and haven't had any problems, just planned well ahead.

Trailer brakes won't help you pull away from the ramp...they're exactly what they sound like...brakes on the trailer. They will help you stop, especially if the trailer is well loaded.

I'm not sure of the exact weight of your boat cadriver, but your trailer should have a tag riveted on it somewhere that lists the weight for the trailer, or perhaps that was something my dad's builder did as the trailer was custom made for the boat.

My dad's 18 foot bass boat + 150 hp motor + trailer = 2450 lbs according to that tag.

 

If the trailer does not have brakes it just means that the stopping distances will be longer, so plan in advance. Of course it also means your truck's brakes will be doing all the work so make sure they are in good shape.