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We idle our engine roughly 1/2hr to 1hr to warm the trucks up. A 2006 F 250 5.4 and 1997 F350 7.5. We use full syn Mobile 1 in them both. Our temps run -40f to
50F above in winter with lots of idle time. Short trips of 1/2 mile to longest 5 ml.
When i change the oil in both they are dark in the 5.4 to almost black in the 7.5
every two months or when i see them getting dark.
We also have sand blowing around when there is no snow. I do have 195 degree
thermostat in the 7.5 with covers over both radiators. Summer there is lots of sand blowing around and change them also every two to three months.
Our sand here in Bethel,Ak is of glacial kind. It is very fine gets into everything and sticks to everthing. Thxs for any info.
The color it an indication the oil is doing its job. As for the extended idling, I would change the oil more frequent also but use a good quality dino like Pennzoil or Castrol.
With the blowing, fine textured sand, I'd pay close attention to the air & oil filter quality, change intervial & especially the the air filter, it's quality & fit in the air box & all the air intake plumbing, that it's tight fitting & undamaged!!!!
Why not consider engine block & oil sump heaters for the vehicles. Seems to me, they could pay for themselves in gas & oil savings alone & maybe in engine life too, as they could eliminate all that idle warm up time, which isn't ood for your engines or pocketbook!!!!
Sounds like your making good use of synthetic lube, with your wide temp swings.
-40F is frosty, coldest I've ever been in was -22 in RI, at NAS Quanset Pt. Had to walk about a mile to work, talk about frosty, but I'd not like to have to deal with -40 temps.
I've seen what uheated 40 & 50 weight av-lube looks like at -22, so I can imagine what dino crankcase lube would pump like at that temp, so if you go that route, I'd definately consider a dipstick & block heater!!!!
I agree. I think a block heater would be much better, and cut the idle time. 1/2 - 1 hour idling is alot, but at least you are using a good synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1.
PS: You say your temps run 40 to 50 degrees F in winter? Was that a typo? If so, that extended idling time is a complete waste on many fronts. If I am missing something, please let me know.
Our temps due go from -40f below to 50 above here in Bethel,Ak. We due use block heaters in both trucks. We also have wind chill into the -100s. When you have baby you want the truck warm for them especialy when they are sick. Plus when the trannys are so stiff you can stall the truck if you aren't carefull. We are using syn Mobile 1 0w30 in trucks. Electicty is expensive here also the gas is $4.38 gal. They get plugged in on a timer for at least 4hr before we try start. Sometimes it isn't enough when the temp falls below -40 to -50 below. Then nothing much moves here. 737 jets are the only thing that fly around here at those temp. Powersteering pumps
do not sound good in this weather. Have seen autos have to idle 2 to 3 hrs to be able
even move also seen clutch break because of cold.
Seems to me there also should be cold country winter formulas for the tranny & P/S units too. The differentials should already have synthetic lube in them, so I don;t know if there is a winter mix for them or not, seems to me there should be.
Seeing as how your using a block heater, if you also used a oil sump heater, you could make it easier to start & warm up.
Sounds like your oil is doing it's thing, if it were not getting dirty looking I'd be concerned.
Do you pull the battery at night & bring it in, or do you also have a blanket heater for it too????
I too, on occasion have used cardboard in front of the radiator to help with over cooling on really cold days.
letting your engine idle that long isn't good. the plus though is you're using synthetic, but the negative is when you let your vehicle idle is it takes alot longer for your vehicle to get oil doing it's job in the engine. i understand you have a baby and want your truck warm. i'd still try not to let it idle that long. taking off right away after you start but driving it like a grandma/pa/keeping rpm's low as you can is better for longevity of engine.
Remember the trannys,transfercase,powersteering take atf so not much choice there.
We do have syn in the diffs but when it cold and windy they are stiff nomatter what.
We put the biggest batteries we can fit so they will start. The oil pan heaters help but when you have wind they only do so much. You can ruin an engine if it is not warmed up right. Have had that happen on fourwheelers and snowmachines. It is called cold seizeing. We have had to put hairdryers in the intake tube to try and warm up the intake. Today our temp was 3 above and looking to get to -10 to -15 below. So its not bad today.
Okay, I get it now. -40 degrees, up to 50 degrees. I can see your dilemma in those frigid temps. Zero or below, you probably only need a postage stamp size opening for the radiator. Air going through the radiator will cool the engine noticeably, if the radiator is not shielded properly.
As much as I dislike extensive idling, sometimes it's necessary in frigid, bitter cold regions.
Although I am sure some will say, they like 20w50 oil, no problems and it offers better protection for engines in Alaska.
1 hour idle time. No way. What were you thinking? Ten minutes would be pushing it.
I would give my vehicles ten to fifteen minutes when I was living in an area of 15 to 25 below zero in the winter. I have put 300,000 miles on a truck, doing so. If you want a warm vehicle when you get in, move to Yuma,AZ, or Galvaston, TX. My goodness, what a *****!
Move to our area before you make a judgement. As i said earlier at times the tranny,
transfer case are so cold cannot shift the trucks. Two of our other trucks have 19 years of this type of wear. WE idle that when it is -30 and colder out. The trucks will wear out the body,frame before the engines do. On the ranch in Montana we had a lot of idle times this long and longer. When its cold -30 or colder anything above 0w30
will not flow out of the bottle. Even #1 dsl will not flow well. Here we have to run Jet A
for the trucks and for heating fuel. our propane has to be a special blend of artic type.
The windsheilds are so thick with frost the scapers will not take it off. Even radial tires
will flat spot here.
Move to our area before you make a judgement. As i said earlier at times the tranny,
transfer case are so cold cannot shift the trucks. Two of our other trucks have 19 years of this type of wear. WE idle that when it is -30 and colder out. The trucks will wear out the body,frame before the engines do. On the ranch in Montana we had a lot of idle times this long and longer. When its cold -30 or colder anything above 0w30
will not flow out of the bottle. Even #1 dsl will not flow well. Here we have to run Jet A
for the trucks and for heating fuel. our propane has to be a special blend of artic type.
The windsheilds are so thick with frost the scapers will not take it off. Even radial tires
will flat spot here.
you must be making killer money up there to put up with that crap!
It's a way of life here. Gas is $4.38 gal more in the villages $7.00 or more.
Gallon of milk is $5.00. Case of Mobal 1 at napa is $86.00 for six in a case.
The windsheilds will fog up if your truck is not warm enough.
Our windchill can dip below -100F. It is hard to warm up anything in the wind.
Sometimes you have to put space heaters under the trucks with 90 elbow to warm the engines enough to crank them. Hair dryers in the intake to get the air warm enough so the gas will atomize. Many people do not remember the effect of windchill
on the body and equipment.
This might be a dumb questioin but do you have a garage? If I lived there it would be a priority to have a garage so my truck wouldn't be out frozen in the mornings. I understand that they don't just grow on trees though.
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