I would like to know if there is anyone out there that is very informative on what to use to insurate a basement.

What type of insuration to use?

What the R factoris on it?

Also if you know of a site that is as good as this one but is for asking questions about construction please let us know of this site, so that it may help many of us that have question on differant topics.

 

This is not meant to be a sarcastic or smart-alek remark - but the "l" is nowhere near the "r" on a keyboard and it's there twice - you will get more hits Googling what you seek if you spell it "insulation" with an "l".

Classic solution: nail studs to the concrete wall, fill with fibreglass, vapour barrier, drywall.

Slightly more modern solution: use styrofoam in place of the fibreglass - except it requires a flame-proof covering 'cause it gives off toxic funes if ever there's a fire

Modern solution - spray foam insulation. Same thing for fire protection, but the spray method really seals things well. Although it is more expensive.

 

I would like to make a remark on putting styrofoam than put a vapour barrier than drywall, you are asking for trouble for one reason how is this wall going to breath? You have stoped all air from getting to and from the concrete block or wall, and this will cause mold.

Thank-you for your pointer on insulation, I did not see it.

 

How much of the basement wall is below ground ?

When Insulating (Insulation) you need to factor in a few things.

Type of wall construction wood,concrete,cinder block,etc

Exposure to elements shade,sun,wind,snow,depth below ground level,etc


How about more information ?

 

My home has a concrete block basement, West winds and mostly sun althrough there is shade in the frount of the house in the summer time. Yes I live in Northwest Ohio. So yes we do have snow and cold weather.
the basement is 7' below the ground.

Is there anything else that I should tell you?

I know that this winter is has been very cold in the basement. By the way the home was built in 1973.

I hope that this will help you.

 

What the hell is with all these spelling things?

Insurlation? Clearly a spelling error.

but

vapOUR, fibREglass.... are we in england now? This spelling drives me nuts.

 

Cinder block should have had been filled with herculite or other insulation but don't count on it
Sometimes they just fill the cavity with grout.

I wouldn't consider that wall having much insulation value.

What are you trying to achieve ?

cool basement in the summer & warm in the winter ?

Central forced air heating ?

Can the walls be made of 2 x6" as opposed to 2x4"?

is there going to be small rooms or an open area in the developed basement ?

 

Warm indoor air hitting a cold cement wall will cause water to condense on teh concrete causing the moist wall. Seal it off and plug it up with foam. JMO.

 

Secure extruded polystyrene (EXPS/XEPS R-10) sheathing 2 inches thick to the walls with recommended panel adhesive. Seal joints either with tape or fiberglass mesh and mastic. Cover with 1/2" latex painted sheet rock with adhesive. Hold the panels in place permanently by wood furring strips attached through the XPS by power driven nails.

 

My recommendation for concrete (or cinder block walls) foundations would be to place poly (.4mil plastic) against the block, use 2x4 framed wall to fur out, fill wall cavities with R-13 unfaced insurlation (sorry, had to do it), 1/2" drywall taped and textured, one coat latex primer and one coat latex paint on drywall. Torque1st's system will also be effective. The downside being it is difficult to incorporate outlet's, telephone and cable wiring. This all being said assuming you have an unfinished basement and ceilings. Masonry walls and wood walls differ in "breatheability" and need to be insulated accordingly. Wood walls use a house wrap (i.e. - Tyvek) to shunt outside air/moisture from reaching the inside wall cavity. Masonry walls typically do not have such a barrier, therefore one must be installed on the inside (poly plastic). If you don't drywall and paint the furred walls, moisture will collect between the poly and the insulation. Primer and paint act as a 1st defense against moisture control in an insulated foundation wall system. Insulating anything (walls, roofs, floors, etc.) is a real science and different insul. co. will give you a variety of recommendations. This system has worked well for our area (Nebraska) and is how we insulate new home and addition basements. Bottom line- excessive moisture in any wall cavity is not good. My 2 coins.

 

Part of the problem is that it has no cold air returns near the floor in the basement (just about all houses built w/ basements have no returns). If you just insulate, it still will not warm up as much as you think it will. Ideally if you can put in two double returns as far apart as possible in the basement. Sould like you are just starting to finish the basement, perfect time to do this. Cutting in a return on the return drop to the furnace is the two-bit hack way and can cause problems with flue gas venting.

 

Upgrade to a high efficiency furnace with a combustion air inlet. The kind that runs an air inlet and the flue thru a plastic pipe. The combustion air drawn thru an antiquated furnace will really keep a basement frigid.

When I moved into a house that was built in 1962 with an old furnace I built a plenum chamber to fit the front of the furnace and used a pipe 2 sizes bigger than the flue to bring combustion air from a sealed up basement window. The difference in the basement was amazing!

Water heaters and dryers in a basement also pull a lot of air out which comes from outside thru cracks around the foundation and everywhere else. This air infiltration makes your basement cold.

Providing combustion air to your appliances will make a huge difference in the comfort inside your house by eliminating drafts. A combustion air inlet can also eliminate the need for a humidifier since normal humidity from showering and cooking will be adequate to keep the house comfortably humidified.

 

Yes I did get a New High Efficiency 2 stage Gas Force air Furance.

I would like to know if I would put insuration where the top of the fountion and the house meets if that would make a big differance?

Again I do not belive in putting plasic on the walls as a barrier for you have to have the wall beath, or you will get mold like what has happened. But I do belive if you can insulate the walls with a no face insulation it would help. What do you think?

Remmber MOLD KILLS.

 

Guys nock off the spelling talk, so what if someone does not spell just like all of you.
Give people a break...

 

If my walls breathed I think I'd move.