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AC compressor shuts off after a while

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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #16  
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Todd230,

I recently wrote out the instructions on checking the air gap for A/C clutches in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-problems.html

It's Post #3.

Maybe it will be of some help to you

Pop
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 12:48 AM
  #17  
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Oh man, I like the sound of this one Pop -- My son and I race go karts and they run slip clutches similar to the AC compressor... Same sort of air gaps, etc... I'll check this out first thing.

Thanks!
Todd
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:06 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by todd230
Oh man, I like the sound of this one Pop -- My son and I race go karts and they run slip clutches similar to the AC compressor... Same sort of air gaps, etc... I'll check this out first thing.

Thanks!
Todd
I'd say clutch as well. I got a new one from a local automotive air conditioning shop for $70. I'd look there before i would check pressures. If it runs for ten minutes and blowing cold air your pressures are fine.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 07:03 AM
  #19  
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I'm with SpringerPop on this one. As the clutch wears, the gap gets bigger and causes the clutch to slip a little, causing more wear...it's one of those vicious cyles. The factory specs are .014-.030 in. (.035-.075 mm) It's a tight squeeze between the coolant reservoir but if you have a long pair of 90º needle nose pliers to hold the clutch it can be done. A buddy of mine had my spanner wrench, so I made a quick one from a 1/8" x 1" x 12" piece I had laying around. Just drilled and threaded a couple of #10 screws as pins. Worked like a charm.

Good luck and hope you get it solved,

Austin
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #20  
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Pop - Found the air gap was + .05. I found the compressor cycling every 10 - 20 seconds once the system was up to temperature (cold) both before the air gap adjustment and after. Is this normal? I'm going to road test it later today, just thought I would ask before hand. Going to need the AC tomorrow - we have a race and its going to be 90 +.

Also, to hold the clutch while I remove the bolt, I just turned the key on with the AC on and engaged the clutch. I had to push it in a bit to engage before taking the shim out. No help needed to engage after the adjustment. No need for a tool to hold the clutch.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 03:18 PM
  #21  
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Do you have any reason to believe that your system hasn't still the proper amount of refrigerant? Has the amount been adjusted?

If it were mine cycling every 20 seconds, I'd think this to be too frequent. Of course, this all depends on ambient air temperature, your cooling demand, and the pressures. It would be nice to know the pressures. But the real test is what the clutch is doing on a hot day, at speed, with the cabin air at a comfortable temperature. Less cycling is better.

Got gauges? What an incentive to buy them! MORE TOOLS! ;-)) You don't need the best there are, but you can have a usuable set for around $40-50. A side-benefit is you get to be the neighborhood hero at the beginning of the hot season! ;-))

And face it, if you get the system completely operational again for $50, plus maybe the price of an R-134a bomb, you're WAAAAAY ahead of the game! Guages will also tell you if you DON'T need any R-134.

Run it for the weekend, as-is, and see. Let us know.

Pop
 

Last edited by SpringerPop; Mar 10, 2007 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #22  
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your refrigerant charge is low. need freon. when your unit is first turned on the charge is high enough to satisfy your low pressure cut off switch. as it runs the pressure declines as does the temp. when it hits the low pressure limit, the unit cuts off. as the pressure builds back up the unit comes back on. and on it goes. Don't know what year your vehicle is but you may have a leak or just need to top it off. Been working on a/c systems for years and have not yet run across a unit that has too large a clutch gap. It happens, just have not seen it myself.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #23  
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Update - After pulling the shim out, the system works great. Thanks Pop. I'm going to run it tomorrow and get some gauges next week and check the pressures just to get things right before it really gets hot. I appreciate the help!
Todd
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 01:12 AM
  #24  
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Todd,

That's exactly what this place is all about, people helping people.

You already know something that I'll need someday, and we'll connect again when that happens.

'Till then, just glad I could help.

Pop
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 05:43 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sgrol
your refrigerant charge is low. need freon. when your unit is first turned on the charge is high enough to satisfy your low pressure cut off switch. as it runs the pressure declines as does the temp. when it hits the low pressure limit, the unit cuts off. as the pressure builds back up the unit comes back on. and on it goes. Don't know what year your vehicle is but you may have a leak or just need to top it off. Been working on a/c systems for years and have not yet run across a unit that has too large a clutch gap. It happens, just have not seen it myself.
I thought the same as you until my clutch went bad. For ac problems it's the first place I go.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jetdoc
I thought the same as you until my clutch went bad. For ac problems it's the first place I go.
Thanks, I'll start looking at them a little more closely also.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 08:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by fixnair
The plug on the high side pressure switch failed on mine. Had to get another wireloom assembly to get it going again.
I checked with a local A/C shop and he told me that it is very common in Powerstrokes that these fail or jar loose from the vibration of the engine. Anybody else run into this problem??

He told me to jiggle the wires around and see if that helps, but no luck yet. He also said that the wiring loom is not available from Ford?? I will take the Ex in tomorrow and have him take a quick look...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 01:52 AM
  #28  
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Big Sky,

Give us some symptoms. How is your A/C doing? Does it EVER operate?

We'll try to help, but we need some info to go on.

Pop
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 07:49 AM
  #29  
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I had the same problem with my truck and ended up being a plugged accumulator/drier unit. I changed that and all is well again, for now....

Now before I changed that part, I think I checked every other part that there was, including changing the orifice tube twice, pulling the grill out and back flushing the radiator, intercooler and ac with a hose. changing low side switch, etc.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Big Sky,

Give us some symptoms. How is your A/C doing? Does it EVER operate?

We'll try to help, but we need some info to go on.

Pop
My wife had it running about a month ago and it just quit on her way home from Costco. Then it started up again after she got home, worked for a little bit and hasn't worked since. I changed out the low pressure switch with no luck, and checked the wires on the high pressure switch. I've checked other possible problems but without gauges, I really can't do much. I am trying to avoid a huge repair bill as much as possible, but as hot as it's been, I need to get it fixed..
 
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