Well, I fixed a friends T-bird w/302 that had a lope by swapping in my MAP sensor for test purposes, and then buying a new one...
In theoriy you could pull the plug from the MAP and then pull codes. It should show the MAP signal as 'wrong' in some way. Might have to run the KOER test where it looks for you to floor the gas pedal and then it would find that the MAP did not track the WOT and low-to-none vacuum in the intake.
If you check the MAP output Hz signal, I'd bet is is going nuts and oscillating all over the place. That tells the ECM "load no load load no load" which will vary the pulse width to the injectors... which wil rich/lean/rich/lean/... you get it.
tom

 

I THINK I FOUND IT! (Not the problem, but the elusive spout connector) Well it was nowhere near the distributor, thats for sure. I have been looking for this stupid thing forever!

Here is a pic of what I believe to be the Official "spout" connector: (it was buried near the lower corner of the battery)

 

Hi G2IC_Wraith.

Tee! Hee! Hee!...peek a boo!!!

Altitude Compensator...OK!

Looks in normal condition...I Don't think it's the prob either.

Still plugging at it..eh?

 

STUPID, FREAKING, NO GOOD, DISHONEST, INCOMPETENT, DAMN STEALERSHIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As you might have guessed by know THE TIMING WAS STILL SET WRONG! I pulled the spout connector and hooked up the timing light...... WTH?! 0 deg TDC. DAMN IT. So I set it to 10 deg BTDC, lock the distributor down, and plug the spout back in. I go for a spin, and right away you can tell it has most if not all of it's power back. I looked at the timing + advance at idle and yea, it sits around 20+ BTDC. I can still feel some surging (loping) at idle, but it isn't as bad so time will tell on that. I will also have to re-pull codes to see what is in there. I think the TPS, and MAP are still going to be bad, but at least I can get out of my own way when when needed.

 

HEY G2IC_Wraith,

YYYEEESSS!!! I said from the start that a timing problem exhisted and this was my 1st intuition
and I've learned that these are the most exacting!!

So...CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR FINAL FINDINGS!! TIME TO PARTY!!

 

Well I would hold the champagne for now, as not all the problems are solved, but they have gotten much better so maybe just some beer.

Most of the power has returned after the timing adjustment, and the mileage has gone back up over what I used to get pre-overhaul. :up My first full tank after the timing adjustment resulted in 25+MPG mostly all city driving (below 60mph)

Now for the bad part, the idle does STILL surge/lope. Not as bad as before, but you can still tell it goes up and down. Now that it idles down around 800rpm and sounds/runs like a much newer truck it isn't as pronounced, but still there. I just got the OEM replacement TPS so that might help. I will test for codes again before I install it, but I doubt they have changed.

I only wish I could have found this stupid spout connector earlier. I think I am going to go by the dealer that did the work and ask the tech to point out the spout connector for me. Anyone want to lay odds on him pointing right to it? Or will he just refuse to help for fear of being embarrassed. Either way, I am SURE the Service Manger will defend the work.

 

You should ask for a refund... as I said before, they didn't do the work, why should they get paid?
t

 

does any no where the fuel pump relay is located
also there is 2 hoses on the top of the air filter housing 1 plastic other rubber where do the rubber hose go

 

Update: I don't think I mentioned previously that I finally got the correct TPS from the Ford parts store. What a difference in the idle quality and most of my mileage has returned. It is pretty consistently 25 MPG driving stop-n-go city driving all the time. I say most because I still have a faulty e-brake cable on one side that is causing some dragging issues + squeaks, so I think will be getting even more once I fix that.

garyr69 - I don't mind a little thread jacking now and again..... For the fuel pump relay are you talking about the Inertia switch that cuts the fuel or the actual relay? Without looking for it, I want to say the fuel relay is over near the heater core on the passenger's side. If you are looking for the inertia switch, pull the carpet back from the firewall on the passenger's side floor and you will see it. As far as the hoses on the top of the air box go, I haven't looked at mine closely, but I am pretty sure one of those two (the rubber one I think) goes to that warm air inlet valve under the air box/battery area. The other one (the plastic shielded one I think) may go to the EGR solenoid. If you still can't find it I will take a closer look the next time I get a chance.