I got a situation and need some help!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2003
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I got a situation and need some help!
It's a 1994 F150 4.9 (300) auto E4OD 2 weels drive.
I just put a new Idle air control valve it was bad; it was a big improvement, the air fuel mix better, the shifting improved but I still not right.
I set the timming, Ifund No vaccum leak and the RPM are still high.
I check for troble code with the scan tool and this what I get;
Codes 111 - System pass code
#10 - # 1 Cylinder low
#327 - EGR sensor below min. voltage
Now ; I got only 30,000 miles on this engine; so I have no idea why the #1 cylinder come out Low; I DON'T Know if the EGR sensor or Valve have anything to do with that. I really don't Know That why I'm asking or some one who know for some help wich I will really appreciated. Thanks
I just put a new Idle air control valve it was bad; it was a big improvement, the air fuel mix better, the shifting improved but I still not right.
I set the timming, Ifund No vaccum leak and the RPM are still high.
I check for troble code with the scan tool and this what I get;
Codes 111 - System pass code
#10 - # 1 Cylinder low
#327 - EGR sensor below min. voltage
Now ; I got only 30,000 miles on this engine; so I have no idea why the #1 cylinder come out Low; I DON'T Know if the EGR sensor or Valve have anything to do with that. I really don't Know That why I'm asking or some one who know for some help wich I will really appreciated. Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Nighthawk I'm not sure what you're talking about. First off, his system is OBD-I, they didn't implement OBD-II until 96. Second off, the OBD-I will read off both 2 and 3 digit codes, depending on what his problem is.
As for your problem pikiluvi... what exactly is your problem? From you post it sounds like your idle is too high or too low? Be specific please.
-Chris
As for your problem pikiluvi... what exactly is your problem? From you post it sounds like your idle is too high or too low? Be specific please.
-Chris
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 1
From: La Grande, OR
Oh, wow, for some reason, I was in a completely different mode and don't know what I was thinking..... yeah that is right
Did you do a KOEO test? If you did, there still shouldn't be a code 10, if you did a KOER test, then the Code 10 means "Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test." And the code 327 is "DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts"
This is according to fordfuelinjection.com
Did you do a KOEO test? If you did, there still shouldn't be a code 10, if you did a KOER test, then the Code 10 means "Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test." And the code 327 is "DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts"
This is according to fordfuelinjection.com
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Well judging by your trouble code 327 I would suggest replacing the EGR sensor. I was getting a code thrown for the EGR sensor and bought a new one on ebay for ~$40, very easy to replace. This would probably be a good place to start if your idle is incorrect because an incorrect of recirculated exhaust gas could easily mess up your idle speed. Good luck.
-Chris
-Chris
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 1
From: La Grande, OR
and to go with the code 10, that sounds like its pointing to something wrong there in that cylinder.
See http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...t-balance.html
they have a pretty good explanation there. Pull the plug and check to see if its ok, not fouled, then do a compression check...might as well do one on the whole engine. If the compression check passes and the plug looks good, it could also be an injector.
Seeming how you only have 30,000 miles on it, you shouldn't have any piston/ring problems, but check compression anyway. This would also contribute to a rough idle, running symptom, but do that EGR too like Skandocious said. Hope this helps!
See http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...t-balance.html
they have a pretty good explanation there. Pull the plug and check to see if its ok, not fouled, then do a compression check...might as well do one on the whole engine. If the compression check passes and the plug looks good, it could also be an injector.
Seeming how you only have 30,000 miles on it, you shouldn't have any piston/ring problems, but check compression anyway. This would also contribute to a rough idle, running symptom, but do that EGR too like Skandocious said. Hope this helps!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
The codes will be all two digit or all three digit, not a mixture of the two. The 10 code is probably just the separator flash between the real time and memory codes. These trucks will not do a cylinder balance test anyway because they do not have sequential injection. Plus, that's a separate test done at the end of the engine running test on SEFI vehicles. I would reset the codes (pull the jumper as the codes are blinking out on the check engine light), take it for a drive and pull the codes again. I would also run the engine running test to see if anything different pops up there that wasn't displayed in the engine off test.
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; Mar 8, 2007 at 07:15 AM.
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Junior User
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I need to run some tests
I believe the code #10 is the separator time.
* Now: when the truck is cool I turn the key and start on the first turn;
after that, it take's about ten turns to start.
*It Idle high
*The Idle goes up and down
* I going to do a compression test, check the plugs and the wires, Just to make sure the cylinders are ok. ( I put new injectors 2 months ago)
On the Code #327
* I'm going to test the resistance on the sensor, test the EGR valve it self and check the voltage to the EVP to see what I got.
I will post with the results. Thanks guys
* Now: when the truck is cool I turn the key and start on the first turn;
after that, it take's about ten turns to start.
*It Idle high
*The Idle goes up and down
* I going to do a compression test, check the plugs and the wires, Just to make sure the cylinders are ok. ( I put new injectors 2 months ago)
On the Code #327
* I'm going to test the resistance on the sensor, test the EGR valve it self and check the voltage to the EVP to see what I got.
I will post with the results. Thanks guys
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