no dash lights...but everything else works
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From: Duncan, OK
no dash lights...but everything else works
I have also posted this in the Misc-wiring forum. Spent the evening chasing 47 year old wires in my '60 F100. Good news is that everything works now except the dash lights (cluster lights). Prior to this, the cluster lights, the dome, and the horn did not work due to previous owner creating birds nest under the dash. I have chased them down per the maps in my shop manual and they appear to be correct to the guide. I have checked them with the ign on and off and no luck. My only concern is that there is a stray black wire with a sleeve as if something is to plug into it (original to truck). This wire leads into the firewall and that is where I lose it...I cant find it under the hood. I have also checked the fuses in the light switch, and all appear to be good. Anybody got anything?? Anyone with a '60 willing to send or take a pic of what they have??
Thanks!
Ryan
P.S I survived the bomb/Anthrax threat at school last week! Turns out to be powdered sugar and a cell phone...
Thanks!
Ryan
P.S I survived the bomb/Anthrax threat at school last week! Turns out to be powdered sugar and a cell phone...
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Could be the rheostat in the headlight switch is bad. Turning the **** to the right dims the dash lights, back to the left-brightens them. You might try turning the **** back and forth rapidly a couple of times to see if anything flickers on dash.
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From: Duncan, OK
I originally thought that and briefly replaced with a salvaged switch. Still no lights, although when turned all the way to the left the dome still lights up on both switches. I must be missing something...I do have new bulbs in them as well...
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Headlight switch for a 60 F100/350 same as Falcon 1960 = C0DF-11654-C
Book shows one switch for 57, a second for 58 and 59, and a third for 60.
Don't ask me why '57-60 F100/350 would use 3 different headlight switches, kinda odd. Reason I mentioned this is maybe the salvaged switch you tried was for a 57, 58/59.
Book shows one switch for 57, a second for 58 and 59, and a third for 60.
Don't ask me why '57-60 F100/350 would use 3 different headlight switches, kinda odd. Reason I mentioned this is maybe the salvaged switch you tried was for a 57, 58/59.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Spokane WA
Well in my 59 the dash lights, horn and the left turn signal light work but the dome and right turn signal don't work. Lovely old trucks. I just 2 factory wires in front of the door above the hinges. I'm still trying to find out what those are for.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by White_Knuckles
Well in my 59 the dash lights, horn and the left turn signal light work but the dome and right turn signal don't work. Lovely old trucks. I just 2 factory wires in front of the door above the hinges. I'm still trying to find out what those are for.
I would guess that the wire loom would contain those wires whether there was a switch or not. Those switches could be added by the dealer. There's a provision on the right side for one also.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
59er F100 check the dash panel light grounds. You could have corrosion around the light socket holes that prevent the lights from completing the circuit. The only other thing is the blue/red wire for the instrument lights is cut before the junction where it splits off to all the individual dash lights. The black wire you referenced that you can't track, is it actually dark brown in color if you look at is close?
White_knuckles are those wires orange and black/blue? If so those are for the fuel sending unit(orange) and dome light(black/blue). If you feel around between the door opening and roof under the headliner, if you have one, you'll be able to trace them. The right turn signal problem will most likely be the turn signal cam. You can pull the bullet connectors off the steering column harness. Take the blue(flasher) wire and touch it to the green(right rear light) and white/blue(right front light) to know for sure.
White_knuckles are those wires orange and black/blue? If so those are for the fuel sending unit(orange) and dome light(black/blue). If you feel around between the door opening and roof under the headliner, if you have one, you'll be able to trace them. The right turn signal problem will most likely be the turn signal cam. You can pull the bullet connectors off the steering column harness. Take the blue(flasher) wire and touch it to the green(right rear light) and white/blue(right front light) to know for sure.
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From: Duncan, OK
Gentleman, great info! I will try some more snooping thru the birds nest this evening! I am having suspicions that it is the Rheostat in my headlight switch, since the dome light is working fine as well as everything else but the dash lights.
NumberDummy...thanks for the part #'s!
AirHarley...I did what you recommended and everything looks good (new bulbs with grease).....I will check more closely the mysterious "black" wire and look for cuts in the blue-red wire.
Anyone know where to get a "working" headlight switch for a '60??? LMC and Mac's dont have them...just 57-59.
Thanks for all the input!!
Ryan
NumberDummy...thanks for the part #'s!
AirHarley...I did what you recommended and everything looks good (new bulbs with grease).....I will check more closely the mysterious "black" wire and look for cuts in the blue-red wire.
Anyone know where to get a "working" headlight switch for a '60??? LMC and Mac's dont have them...just 57-59.
Thanks for all the input!!
Ryan
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Headlight Switches F100/350 1961-64
1961: C1DF-11654-A (Motorcraft SW-297) Same as: 1961 Comet & Falcon
1962/64: C2DZ-11654-A (Motorcraft SW-303) Same as: 1962/63 Falcon & Comet
The 65 F Series switch fits thru 1972, so I left it off this list.
1961: C1DF-11654-A (Motorcraft SW-297) Same as: 1961 Comet & Falcon
1962/64: C2DZ-11654-A (Motorcraft SW-303) Same as: 1962/63 Falcon & Comet
The 65 F Series switch fits thru 1972, so I left it off this list.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
easy way to test where the problem lies: hook a temporary "hot" lead to the dash lights after the rheostat. If they light, replace the switch, If they don't look for a bad ground (hook another temp lead from a bare metal part of the cluster to a bare metal screw or bolt head that goes into the bodywork. Everyone who works on these trucks should have and know how to use a basic volt/ohm meter (VOM) or at least a simple voltage tester (one can be cobbled together out of a leftover bulb socket and bulb, a couple feet of wire, an aligator clip, some electrical tape and an awl, icepick or large darning needle)
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From: Duncan, OK
Update!
Fellas,
It is always a good day when you can sit back in the cab...turn the lights on...and bring some life to the old dash board!!! I manged to get the dash lights working again!! Looks like its got a couple of old vacuum tubes glowing behind it!! Anyway, pulled the light switch and inspected the rheostat..pulled the rheostat and lightly buffed the contacts with a brass brush and used some dielectric grease...and Voila! The black wire I mentioned previously maintains powered (constant power) although nothing is connected..I'll figure that one later..
Anyway, a BIG thanks to everyone's suggestions...I now know how slow I am going at night!!!
Ryan
It is always a good day when you can sit back in the cab...turn the lights on...and bring some life to the old dash board!!! I manged to get the dash lights working again!! Looks like its got a couple of old vacuum tubes glowing behind it!! Anyway, pulled the light switch and inspected the rheostat..pulled the rheostat and lightly buffed the contacts with a brass brush and used some dielectric grease...and Voila! The black wire I mentioned previously maintains powered (constant power) although nothing is connected..I'll figure that one later..
Anyway, a BIG thanks to everyone's suggestions...I now know how slow I am going at night!!!
Ryan
