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1956 ride height suggestions

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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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1956 ride height suggestions

I bought a 1956. Has mustang II front end. The truck seems low to me. Going out of driveway etc is problematic. Dont want to add air. I did order 4 link suspension in rear but wanted to get suggestions on what ride height is suggested. Is it really your choice? the front as measured from the centerline of wheel to outside edge of wheel well is 24 1/4" and rear is 26 1/2"
when people talk about stance, is there a standard or is it just what looks good to you? I have 215 75R14's in front and 225 75 R14 in rear

you can see pics in my gallery. thanks
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Mine measures 24 1/2 in front and 25 in the rear.

Your front ride height is pretty much non adjustable with your MII. You can physically raise or lower it with heavy or lighter springs but, It is supposed to be set so that your front A arms are parallel with the ground.

It sounds like you probably have 2" dropped spindles also. You could replace them with standard height spindles if you wanted to raise your truck in front.

The rear ride height can be adjusted up or down a little depending on which hole you mount your coilovers in.

You need to leave enough room for your suspension to work. c-notches in frame allow you to go lower.

Personally I really like the stance on your truck .
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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That's a really nice looking truck, Richard. The stance looks great to me.

Stance is always a personal choice. My 56 has a MII IFS also and I was running a tucked bumper like yours. I slapped that bumper onto the street coming out of a lot of driveways. The bumper didn't seem to mind and it took the hit well. I like the look of no bumper, so I took it off and that helped the driveway/dip problem a lot since it reduced the overhang. But I am also going to put some doughnut-shaped spring spacers in it to raise my front just a bit more.

A lot of foks like the "low as you can go" stance...and that looks fine. If you really want it in the weeds, it will present problems to drive and eventually, you'll rake out your bumper or front pan. Mine is a driver, so I'm doing a little compromising on the stance.

Some solve the problem by using air bags so they can play with the height. Aside from the expense, it seems that the ride can suffer also. There are opinions on both sides of that idea.

It's your truck. Do what you want. Some will like it. Some won't.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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thanks for your comments. I just went out and looked at arms in front. They are pointed up a bit. (im guessing about an inch) the other reason im considering moving up is that this thing is pretty squirrely. When you hit any bumps in road its all over the place. I just posted what the guy did in back...look at bolt supporting shocks...he bent them! So I was wondering if im not actually bottoming out in back when hit bumps causing it to actually get squirrelly....or do I need a sway bar?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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Stance looks good to me! However, it sounds like you need to get stiffer springs to get the a-arms parallel to the ground. I would start with that before you change to non-droppped spindles. I did notice the bent lower shock mounts. Have you checked how much travel you have left in the shocks vs. the dimension between the top of axle and bump stops? Typically you want 3" to 4" of suspension travel before you bottom out and the shocks should not bottom out before the bump stop does.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 11:47 PM
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i appreciate the responses. Stupid question...how do you check the travel?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 02:10 AM
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The stance looks good, but I would never want mine that low. I would definately damage things driving it around here. I lowered mine, but its going back to the stock height before it hits the road again. I guarantee I will drive it like a truck and that won't work for me.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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One of the problems that a lower A-arm pointing up can cause is bump steer, which it sounds like you might be experiencing. I agree with Brucewolff that you need to look at stiffer front springs. Do you know the brand of the Mustang II crossmember in your truck? If so, I would call them and discuss the spring options.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rmoore7167
thanks for your comments. I just went out and looked at arms in front. They are pointed up a bit. (im guessing about an inch) the other reason im considering moving up is that this thing is pretty squirrely. When you hit any bumps in road its all over the place. I just posted what the guy did in back...look at bolt supporting shocks...he bent them! So I was wondering if im not actually bottoming out in back when hit bumps causing it to actually get squirrelly....or do I need a sway bar?
I looked at the pic of the rear shock mounting. The pin IS bent. Not good. The lower mount plate is installed 90* wrong. The pin should point aft. Replace it and clock the mount plate. The pins are available from MidFifty (I think), as is the lower mount plate assembly.

The A-arm not level with the ground will cause the squirrely condition (bump steer) that the other guys are talking about. That's an easy fix with new springs or the spacers I mentioned (available almost everywhere).

Sway bars reduce body roll in a turn. They don't help "squirelly".

Some folks will do anything for looks (stance). We used to torch springs to lower the car. Not a very good ride. We all have stories about what previous owners did. Much of the work I did on mine was just to undo what the PO did.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 10:00 AM
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If your going with the 4 link suspension on the rear you don't need to worry about the shock plate that RJ is talking about. Otherwise, he's correct and that needs to be fixed. As a rule, or maybe just my opinion, most trucks that I see have a difference of 1" - 1.5" in height from the front and rear. In other words, 24.5" in front and a 25.5" in the rear is a pretty nice stance. I'm with everyone, the stance looks nice and you have a clean truck. To check the travel, it's the distance between the rear end and the frame rails. In the front, it's the distance between highest point on the suspension and the frame rail.
 

Last edited by imlowr2; Mar 6, 2007 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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WOW! thanks alot guys this REALLY helps! Like you all said, I will get the 4 link put in and that should solve the rear deal. I cant tell who's front in it is.....if it was my guess..I think it was taken off another car. I looked again at arms, the top one is pointing up (about 10 deg) the bottom on driver side is level to ground..the one on passenger side it pointing up. Whats the general feeling of air ride? Is it worth the money or would the spring fix be good enough? Its a daily driver. The only thing Im thinking is that, you all like the stance but would the air help in those areas that drive ways, speed bumps become an issue? Or am I really looking at some bucks to do this? IF longer or stiffer coils solves problem and I have a good ride.....well maybe I answered my own question
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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The bottom A arm is the one that should be parallel with the ground. If you have one side level and one side pointing up it sounds like you have mis matched springs? or something is wrong with the installation.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by brucewolff
Stance looks good to me! However, it sounds like you need to get stiffer springs to get the a-arms parallel to the ground. I would start with that before you change to non-droppped spindles. I did notice the bent lower shock mounts. Have you checked how much travel you have left in the shocks vs. the dimension between the top of axle and bump stops? Typically you want 3" to 4" of suspension travel before you bottom out and the shocks should not bottom out before the bump stop does.
The reason I mentioned the "non dropped spindles" was because that is about the only way to adjust ride height after you have the proper geometry in the front A arms(level with ground).

The way to get them level with the ground is stiffer or longer springs, or softer or shorter springs, or as Randy says"with spring spacers"
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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Squirrelly over bumps can be poor alignment, worn parts, wrong/no/worn out shocks, bias ply tires, or worse an incorrect installation of the IFS. Does the MII setup use tubular lower A arms with two pivots at the frame or the stock style with the stamped narrow single pivot lower arm and long rod going rearward? How about some pix of the front setup.
After seeing what was done with the rear shocks, I fear the worse for the front.
Too low for a daily driver is IMHO when you can't straddle a standing up beercan.
You REALLY DON'T want to go with airbags. If the lower a arms point upwards towards the wheel then you can and should raise the front until they are parallel with longer springs or with rubber donuts in the spring perches.
Swaybar would be desirable to control body roll entering a turn, but won't help your steering issue.
Oh, another thing that would give bad bump steer is if a stock MII rack was used without lengthening the center section. The pivots between the inner section and the outer sections must be in line with the lower a arm pivot bolt. If they just lengthened the outer sections (easy way out) you will experience all kinds of steering issues.
I'm concerned you found the reason the PO sold the truck.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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I posted some pics in my gallery. hopefully you can make out. I didnt understand the comment on pivot points but maybe the pics will answer. Let me know if you need more info. I want to make sure its done right. I have no intention of selling...I love truck but want to make sure its safe and reliable first. Ive had it aligned and guy who did alignment said was so far off it wasnt funny.
 
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