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Wheel Center Caps

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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #1  
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Angry Wheel Center Caps

I have aftermarket wheels on my F150. They are Eagle Alloy 589 series. If you don't know what these wheels look like check out my gallery. I am tired of the cheap coffee can type center caps that push through from the back. They are constantly getting dented and rusting. I have bought 3 or 4 sets to replace them over the last 8 or 9 years. I know that a set is only about 30 bucks, but there has to be something better than these. I just put a new set on at Chrismas and 2 out of 4 of them are dented. One of them already has rust on it. They really suck! Does anyone know if there is a way to make the oem syle center caps work? I never had a problem with the oem ones doing this crap. If not that, is there a ford center cap off of a different vehicle that works? Any ideas?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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I don't have an answer but I have Pacer wheels with those push through caps on mine. I haven't looked much at them yet but i'm pretty sure they are plastic/chrome plated. So far they seem to be holding up pretty fair.....only problem i see is they move.....even when the wheel is on ......slight rattle.
I'd measure the diameter of the caps you have and go to a used hubcap/wheel place to find some better. Even if they won't sell them without the wheels you could probly order just the caps from the mfr.
Good Luck........nice looking truck
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:22 AM
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Mine rattled too. I had O-rings made that fit around the base of the center cap at the local parts store. It cost about 3 bucks. I've had the same O-rings for almost as long as I have had the wheels. They have held up really well. No more rattling. Thanks for the compliment! I leave my door open once in a while to hear the exhaust when I start it up.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 02:27 PM
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I Have drilled rims steel and aluminum so the centers fit I just tap out holes so stock screws work . Good luck
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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I thought about drilling them for the oem caps to work, but figured I would screw up the wheel. I really don't want to drill them. Does anyone have any other ideas or know of a Ford cap that works? I wish there was a better aftermarket brand of generic center caps.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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Go to local machine shop and see if can make alum ones or stainless. I'd hate to see cost. but I did it on set of wheels that had built in cap once.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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This is a bit of a longshot, but the Nissan trucks of the 80s had plastic center caps that had tabs that wedged up under the lug nuts. Perhaps you could get a set of those and see if you can adapt them to your wheels? The Nissans had 6 lugnuts versus your 5 so maybe this is not possible but just thought I would throw it out there since you don't like the drill-n-tap solution.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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I had thought about maybe using one off of a newer 5 lug F150 that had a push on style that grabbed the lugs, but I tried my friends and I don't think it will work. Even though it is 5 lug the bolt pattern is different. I thought about using one from a Ranger, Explrorer, or Crown Vic, but they will all be too small. As for the drill and tap solution for running the oem caps, how would I tap it so that I could use the screws that came with it? What size are the stainless machine screws? Is there an easy way to make sure it is centered before using it as a template, or just the old trusted eyeball method. I may give this a try. I think it will work.

I did find these on ebay. They are supposed to be stainless. They may be just as thin and still easily dent though. I might go this route. Is the 3 1/4 inch center caps the right size? It looks like it is. Just go to ebay and type the item number: 220088404062 in the search, if this link doesn't work. Any thoughts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8404062&rd=1,1
 

Last edited by TexasGuy001; Mar 7, 2007 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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Sorry to post off topic but I was admiring the pictures of your truck and noticed that you deleted your brush guard. Still have it around?

-Chris
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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Sorry Skandocious, I sold it on craigslist along with the ranch hand rear bumper, the oversize AT tires, lift kit, etc. I don't have any of that stuff anymore. I am about to post updated pictures. It now has an oem rear bumper, and a smooth black chest box instead of one up on top of the rail, and the bed caps are gone. I am about to get a spray on bed liner and have the toolbox sprayed too.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 09:15 AM
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Remove tire lay flat set lugs in bolt holes (helps line/center up cap)I have ran bolt up through rim and hand tightened lug nut on it. (3 lugs) And slid socket down over lugs to help center up. Apply cap and center punch holes . remove cap start with small bit and work up to required tap. (I have small tap kit and size was in there) Take screw to local hardware they can figure size out for you.
Do your spare first to get idea what needs done good luck. You could drill clear through and get stock plastic inserts but they have a small offset in back that you would have to drill for . Don't forget to anti seize then screws. They like to stick in there. Good luck
 
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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The stock center caps are pot metal, so they are really cheep. The reason they dont get dented is because they are small but thick.
The aftermarket ones are cheep, so thats why the damage easily.

However i wonder what your doing to get them dented so easily...

Yes, anti seiz the screws if you do it this way, the ford stock caps have plastic inserts to screw into.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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His rear bumper is on my truck. :-)
 
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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To solve the rust issue you could buy a new set of the replacement caps and then send them out for re-chroming. The chrome shop will strip off the cheap chrome and re-chrome with quality materials.

Won't fix the EZ dent issue though.

Dan
 
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #15  
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I like the idea of installing the factory center caps, It would make it look like the truck came that way. I wonder what a machine shop would charge to drill and tap the holes. Im sure it would take me the better part of a day to do it myself being careful.
 
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