Hi guys. Been a while since I've been on. Which means the truck has been running good, till now....
I've done some searching, and have some new things to check, but I thought I would go ahead and post to see what else I might do.
In case my signature doesn't show, I have a '97 Powerstroke with 189k on it now, auto trans. The other day it stalled out on me while going to work (I was moving @35mph or so). Classic CMP symptoms: no tach reading, no restart, died cleaner than if I'd turned the key off. Still no restart, but no CEL either. Ordered new CMP from International dealer; did not fix! I noticed with the new one that the WTS light is not coming on, and no click from the GPR. I put in the old CMP I had just replaced and same thing (I'm not sure if this is typical of CMP failure or not). So now I'm not sure what else to check. I will check fuses (esp. #22), and HPOP res., and pull the ICP to see if I can get a start. Anything else? As an aside: it could still be the CMP. I didn't get the exact replacement. The parts guy asked me if I wanted the updated one?!? Long story short: there is a CMP that is for an International inline six that he said works as an exact replacement, seems to last longer, and some guys claim the engine runs better. The whole unit is blue in color. He said there is a website that talks about it, but couldn't remember it. Is there some kind of test I can do on the old CMP to see if it is indeed bad (ohm, continuity)?
Sorry for long post. Mine always are, but I try to give ALL the info.
Thanks guys!

 

If your gpr does not activate, and no start, I would almost bet that your fuse #22 is blown. That also powers your PCM relay besides your gpr coil power. if by chance that fuse is o.k, check your injector driver module for water or moisture in it.It is located on the left hand inner fender.

 

Fuse 22 was indeed blown, and the new one blew the instant I turned the key on. So now I need to locate the post from Cuda Jim with all that is connected through that fuse to isolate the cause.

 

The thing that blows # 22 the most is usually the fuel heater shorting out in the fuel filter housing. Most people just unplug it and leave it unplugged.

 

I will try to confirm this tomorrow. I know the advancement of diesel fuel and diesel additives has come a long way, but as I live in an area that frequently sees -30F in the winter, not to mention prolonged periods of below zero temperatures, do I need to look into fixing this, if it is the problem? What might be involved, replacement only? Does International carry this part for the Ford engines?

Thanks for the replies thus far.

 

Yes, IH carries the part. To replace the heater, open the fuel filter housing, remove filter, drain the fuel out, remove the center post ****CAUTION LEFT HAND THREADS***, remove the heater, replace the heater, re-install center post, replace filter, fill with fuel, replace lid. You can upgrade to the newer heater, but it takes some modification to make it fit.

 

If you are replacing the heater check this out.

http://www.thedwilsons.com/powerstro...eater_Mod.html

 

First, thank you all for your replies. I did disconnect the heater wire and the truck did not blow a fuse. Therefore, I believe this is the culprit. A new heater is $63 from my local Ford house. As the current heater lasted till 189k, I think I will use the one for my truck, as opposed to working out the kinks for the newer Super Duty one, but thank you for the post Cuda_jim. This site is a valuable resource for diy folks, and I want to thank all that contribute to it. There is no telling how many (and how much $$) new parts would have been installed in my small town to fix this problem. Though I jumped the gun and ordered a new CMP, which I can't return (nice to have a spare, though), this fix will otherwise cost very little. Again, thanks to all.