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AXRACER is right--do not get in hurry and forget safety.I only blast frames and bigger heavier things like I explained.I had a blast-cabinet before,but sold it and will buy a nother at TIP.--axracer---did ksmith get there yet?Tell him we will meet him at 12;00 Sunday,if o.k. with him.He is a tornado of inspiration---whew!!!!OH-YEA--You better give him some bodywork tips,-I am too old-school and have been out of action for a while.ALTHOUGH--I should be able to handle the painting requirements.
He called a little while ago. Had the trailer picked up and headed south.
We did some bodywork when he was here: hammer and dolly, shrinking disk, reversing collision damage. He'll only be here a few hrs this time.
Hi felixr. Just wanted to offer an opinion. When I did my frame I used a wire brush on an angle grinder to get rid of rust and mud. Then applied a rust converter followed by rust encapsulator (by eastwood company) and finally applied the chassis black paint for a final seal. I did this about 2 years ago and it seems to be holding up well. Hope this helps. shopman
I just finished doing under my cab with por15. I just bought truck and guy did everything but cab...makes no sense to me....anyway, I followed instructions per POR folks. scrapped dirt and any undercoating off, wire brushed, then used metal clean, metal prep and put 2 coats of por15 on...this stuff is tough!!! . after it dried I tried a spot that i purposely overcoated to see if I could get off....wow!
btw-dont get on you....took me a week for it do come off! if you do get it on you dont let dry! I used goof off and worked well if was wet after that only time will get it off!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.