Rough Runnning V10
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
By "brake" I would assume you could also mean "loss of power temporarily"?
I bet you need new plugs or COP or boots or maybe all three or maybe just one.
Does it shake at all throttle settings or just when accellerating?
Course it could be tranny related. How you been with the maintenance intervals with it? Got new(er) fluid?
I bet you need new plugs or COP or boots or maybe all three or maybe just one.
Does it shake at all throttle settings or just when accellerating?
Course it could be tranny related. How you been with the maintenance intervals with it? Got new(er) fluid?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Prairie View, Texas
How do your tires look ? My '99 used to shake @ low RPM's and after a new set of skins the shake disappeared. Also check your ball joints....make sure they are lubed up. My '99 gets a fresh shot of grease in the joints every oil change (3,000). Makes a big difference in front end ride.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Just bought the truck a couple of months ago. Changed oil and filter. I do not have a good fix on the maintenance, though I believe it was a fleet vehicle and was fairly well maintained. The shaking smooths out as I get on the gas and get the rpm's up. Only a very faint "miss" at idle. I plan on cleaning the MAS and checking for vacuam leaks. How would I know if I had a plugged CAT? The muffler has a small hole. The tires seem good. Even wear lots of tread left. I will check the ball joints though. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Welcome to FTE, danj 
Like Monsta said: Coil, boots, plugs.
Describe the "shake" a little better. Is it actually shaking or does it just sound that way?
Many times a misfire will not throw a code, so what a person can do is:
Check every Coil, boot and plug. (Might as well replace the plugs unless you know they've been done) or take it to a dealer that can hook it up to a Diagnostic System.
Like Monsta said: Coil, boots, plugs.
Describe the "shake" a little better. Is it actually shaking or does it just sound that way?
Many times a misfire will not throw a code, so what a person can do is:
Check every Coil, boot and plug. (Might as well replace the plugs unless you know they've been done) or take it to a dealer that can hook it up to a Diagnostic System.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I myself am new to the forum and have a similar problem. I have 99 F-250 V-10 with 110K. Under mild acceleration I feel the miss the worst. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, and serviced the trans. No noticable difference. I also connected a scan tool to it and found nothing out of the ordinary. A stored DTC of missfire cyl 8 before plug change. My question is how sensetive is the ECM to missfires and is there a way to test a coil. My boots look O.K. but I don't know what to look for.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Redneck,
Looks like you've gone that direction but forgot to replace the boots. More especially on your '99, those boots ought to be a bit crusty...unless you've replaced them at the time of the earlier plug change. How do you know the boots are "O.K."?
A scan tool is almost useless at finding COPs that are failing. There are ways to bench test a Coil, but unless you know what you're doing best let a tech do it.
And welcome to FTE!!!!!
Looks like you've gone that direction but forgot to replace the boots. More especially on your '99, those boots ought to be a bit crusty...unless you've replaced them at the time of the earlier plug change. How do you know the boots are "O.K."?
A scan tool is almost useless at finding COPs that are failing. There are ways to bench test a Coil, but unless you know what you're doing best let a tech do it.
And welcome to FTE!!!!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque
Redneck,
What brand of plugs did you install? I ask...because many V10 owners have found that the Motorcraft or Autolite works best. Just a thought...
Yes...for a '99...the boots should have been replaced...IMHO. The age factor kicks in with that application. Making sure to use LOTS of dielectric grease.
biz
What brand of plugs did you install? I ask...because many V10 owners have found that the Motorcraft or Autolite works best. Just a thought...
Yes...for a '99...the boots should have been replaced...IMHO. The age factor kicks in with that application. Making sure to use LOTS of dielectric grease.
biz
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks for the suggestions, I just bought the pickup. The boots were not crusty at all. They were very pliable, but I don't know how old they are. The plugs I used were Autolite double platinum. I think I will get a set of boots anyway, I hear they are inexpensive.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
OK I bought the plugs and boots, work to do this weekend, and will let you all know the results. Found out that plugs were changed at 110K in 03, and #1 COP last June. Now for a new problem: When the brakes are applied at any speed above 40 mph, there is a very noticeable shudder in the front end, and I feel the same shudder when accelerrating out of a stop into a turn. (different from the obvious miss that the engine has). Front brakes were replaced a year ago. Any thoughts? BTW...are the stock mirrors on this truck bothering anyone else? Can't see a thing out of them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Two different issues, Dan.
The 99 model brake rotors were not the best and can get "lumpy" which means they can get hard spots on them from even normal braking. There are some brake shops that can machine those spots out, but these shops are few and far between. Aftermarket rotors like ART, for example, are a good replacement rotor.
As far as the shudder at take-off - this could be "axle wrap". Don't see where you mentioned it - is it 2wd or 4wd and is a single or dual rear wheel? Many times the shim under the carrier (or swing) bearing is not shimmed enough. Common problem. Let us know your setup.
The 99 model brake rotors were not the best and can get "lumpy" which means they can get hard spots on them from even normal braking. There are some brake shops that can machine those spots out, but these shops are few and far between. Aftermarket rotors like ART, for example, are a good replacement rotor.
As far as the shudder at take-off - this could be "axle wrap". Don't see where you mentioned it - is it 2wd or 4wd and is a single or dual rear wheel? Many times the shim under the carrier (or swing) bearing is not shimmed enough. Common problem. Let us know your setup.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Safety issue on the brakes only if they prevent you from stopping properly. If they "shake" just enough to annoy you - no.
There is no safety issue with the "axle wrap". Just ease off, like you have an egg twixt your foot and accelerator.
But I would look into checking the shims; see if they've worked loose or maybe get a good tech to check angle of driveline. Is this an F250 or F350? Makes a difference in rear block size.
There is no safety issue with the "axle wrap". Just ease off, like you have an egg twixt your foot and accelerator.
But I would look into checking the shims; see if they've worked loose or maybe get a good tech to check angle of driveline. Is this an F250 or F350? Makes a difference in rear block size.