temp controll issue
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From: Slatington PA
temp controll issue
Ok, i've had my heater set on high since mid january. Now i cant get it off of high. the middle **** seems to have had lost all functionallity. The blend door fix, isn't going to help me, because it is operating fine. I cant have the heat on full bore all the time. and playing with the switches got old pretty fast. So far i've found proper vacum for the system. The little acuator the conrols the amount of heat in the engine has good vaccum, and moves easily. i can manually change the airtemp when the truck is setting in my garage by pulling the vaccum hose and working the conrtoll like that, but thats not helping me when i drive down the road. Thinking maybe i need a new switch set, but not sure. any help appericiated.
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From: Slatington PA
no it's the heat. the heat wont go down from it's maximum point. it get soo hot in there, and without air, the trucks windows get all steamy
Last edited by Alan D.; Mar 2, 2007 at 02:17 PM.
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From: SW Va
I read it as, he's saying the air temp **** control isn't causing a temp change. But he can control the heaters output temp, by manually operating the under hood, heater water control diverter valve.
So, it seems to me, he needs someone to operate the in cabin temp ****, while he watches the under hood diverter valves plunger, to confirm it's not moving, when the in cabin temp **** tells it to.
SO, if the diverter valves vacuum has good vacuum on it & he says it does, if the vacuum line were removed & a external vacuum were applied to the diverter valve & it didn't move, then suspect it's diaphragm.
If it works, then look in cabin, between the control panel & diverter valve, for a vacuum leak. or vacuum control problem.
So, it seems to me, he needs someone to operate the in cabin temp ****, while he watches the under hood diverter valves plunger, to confirm it's not moving, when the in cabin temp **** tells it to.
SO, if the diverter valves vacuum has good vacuum on it & he says it does, if the vacuum line were removed & a external vacuum were applied to the diverter valve & it didn't move, then suspect it's diaphragm.
If it works, then look in cabin, between the control panel & diverter valve, for a vacuum leak. or vacuum control problem.
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
The water diverter valve is always open (allowing hot coolant into the heater core) except at MAX A/C. Accordingly, the valve is only actuated when the temp control **** is in the MAX A/C position.
The fact that Alan can affect the heat by playing with the water diverter valve does not mean the problem is a vacuum issue, it only means that he is letting more or less coolant flow through the heater core as he tinkers with the valve.
It sounds to me like the warm and cool air that flow through the plenum (by design) are not being blended properly.
The fact that Alan can affect the heat by playing with the water diverter valve does not mean the problem is a vacuum issue, it only means that he is letting more or less coolant flow through the heater core as he tinkers with the valve.
It sounds to me like the warm and cool air that flow through the plenum (by design) are not being blended properly.
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From: Maine
Possible, but every Ranger I've driven has been pretty prone to steaming up a bit just from breathing if you havent' got a window open a little, or the heater turned on. Pain in the butt when you don't have A/C, it's pouring buckets and 95*...
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From: Slatington PA
Originally Posted by pawpaw
I read it as, he's saying the air temp **** control isn't causing a temp change. But he can control the heaters output temp, by manually operating the under hood, heater water control diverter valve.
So, it seems to me, he needs someone to operate the in cabin temp ****, while he watches the under hood diverter valves plunger, to confirm it's not moving, when the in cabin temp **** tells it to.
SO, if the diverter valves vacuum has good vacuum on it & he says it does, if the vacuum line were removed & a external vacuum were applied to the diverter valve & it didn't move, then suspect it's diaphragm.
If it works, then look in cabin, between the control panel & diverter valve, for a vacuum leak. or vacuum control problem.
So, it seems to me, he needs someone to operate the in cabin temp ****, while he watches the under hood diverter valves plunger, to confirm it's not moving, when the in cabin temp **** tells it to.
SO, if the diverter valves vacuum has good vacuum on it & he says it does, if the vacuum line were removed & a external vacuum were applied to the diverter valve & it didn't move, then suspect it's diaphragm.
If it works, then look in cabin, between the control panel & diverter valve, for a vacuum leak. or vacuum control problem.
Last edited by Alan D.; Mar 3, 2007 at 02:07 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
I think I know why I'm confused: first, you don't have A/C on your truck (right?), second, the blend door on a '97 so equipped is operated via cable.
So, if the temperature control **** isn't causing the air temperature to change, it might be because of a broken/unhooked cable.
What I stated before about the water diverter valve is still applicable, however. The valve has nothing to do with temperature control except when it it closed at MAX A/C.
So, if the temperature control **** isn't causing the air temperature to change, it might be because of a broken/unhooked cable.
What I stated before about the water diverter valve is still applicable, however. The valve has nothing to do with temperature control except when it it closed at MAX A/C.
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From: Slatington PA
Rocklege- i do have a/c, and it blend door is operated by a vaccume. there are no cables running to it, and it does have a vaccum line attached to it. i know this, because if i pull it off, i can hear the system lose all it's vaccum. also i noticed that the door canges position if i pull it off.
so far pawpaws discription sounds the best as to what my problem is. the blend door is operating properly, but somehow it's not getting cool air, i have one more idea to try, then i'm rolling down to the dealership.
Edit: this is the dodge dealership, not the ford.
so far pawpaws discription sounds the best as to what my problem is. the blend door is operating properly, but somehow it's not getting cool air, i have one more idea to try, then i'm rolling down to the dealership.
Edit: this is the dodge dealership, not the ford.
Last edited by Alan D.; Mar 4, 2007 at 08:41 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
Alan, the vacuum and wiring diagrams from my '97 Ford Manual show your blend door to be electronically controlled.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...teControl1.gif
Why not check and see if the #10 fuse in the dash fuse panel is OK - it protects the power circuit to the blend door actuator (at least according the wiring diagram).
Similarly, the relevant vacuum diagram shows no vacuum control at the blend door.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...teControl2.gif
However, the vacuum diagram does show a valve that controls the outside recirculation door which is controlled by vacuum. That door is critical in allowing the all-important cool air into the plenum. So, maybe you have a problem with outside air recirculation - either the valve is no good/is not getting vacuum, or the door itself is broken. Maybe that's what you hear...
HTH. Good luck.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...teControl1.gif
Why not check and see if the #10 fuse in the dash fuse panel is OK - it protects the power circuit to the blend door actuator (at least according the wiring diagram).
Similarly, the relevant vacuum diagram shows no vacuum control at the blend door.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...teControl2.gif
However, the vacuum diagram does show a valve that controls the outside recirculation door which is controlled by vacuum. That door is critical in allowing the all-important cool air into the plenum. So, maybe you have a problem with outside air recirculation - either the valve is no good/is not getting vacuum, or the door itself is broken. Maybe that's what you hear...
HTH. Good luck.
Last edited by Rockledge; Mar 4, 2007 at 09:19 PM.