If you were going to perform a thourough tune-up on a push rod 4.0, what list of things would you do. I mean and leave nothing out. Is there any timing issues that can be improved?
What about the coil pack?
Thanks

 

Well you didn't say how many miles you have on this ride, what kind of engine/tranny it has, what kind of mechanical condition it's in, nor what kind of past maintenance it's had.

So you might begin by following the list of specified items, in the Scheduled Maintenance Folder for your vehicle.
Do all the things thats scheduled, for the mileage thats currently on your vehicle.

If you don't know whats been done previously, then go back through the scheduled list & do all those things too.

If we had a little more vehicle history info, maybe we could suggest a more suitable & detailed list of "to do's" for consideration.

Just some ideas for a starting point.

 

the 4L OHV especially the older ones with the '93TB heads develop large amounts of combustion chamber deposits resulting in preignition pinging and loss of power...can even cause engine damage...

do a combustion chamber intake manifold cleaning with a full can of Seafoam with hot engine at 2K rpm...use an 1/8" tube to suck up Seafoam thru throttle body plate hole...engine will run with air tube off TB...whole can in...let engine set and soak for an hour...put in a full 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate or their new Pure or Gumout Regane into half tank of gas....take out to freeway and run hard for 20 miles....

follow up with 1 qt of water in thru same tube same technique

tube and throttle body plate hole limits fluid intake rate

timing is not user adjustable. PCM controlled only.

there is a change that helps with non cleanable pining problems...
Octane plug on PCM wiring harness

if you change plugs, use Motorcraft or Autolite only in the double platinum or Iridium fine wire...only manuf. that gets the heat range correct

the coil pack in these is very reliable...use only Motorcraft or Autolite spark plug wires...they are the only manuf to get the connectors right for tight fit that doesn't fall off

pull codes KOEO and KOER...not all codes set CEL

 

Oh yeah . . . '93 4.0, "push-rod" model, 134K, 5 speed std, 3:27 rear end, and seems to be very good mechanically except for the seemingly typical sewing maching ticking/lifter/carbon build-up whoochimama noise.

I'll stick with the Motorcraft/Autolite plugs and wires. I've read posts that mention one plug in particular that works best, but can't find the post now. Which part #? Something about stores showing both plugs working but one was the wrong length for this engine.(?)

 

A thorough tune-up should include the following:

1. New Motorcraft spark plugs;*

2. New Motorcraft plug wires;

3. New air and fuel filters;

4. Change motor oil and filter;*

5. Full transmission flush (auto) or drain and refill (manual);

6. Change out fluid in differentials(s) and transfer case (if applicable);

7. Clean MAF sensor.

*Inasmuch as were are talking about the 4.0L OHV, you should also consider giving it a comprehensive carbon-cleaning beforehand. See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0l-engine.html

 

Ok, so we're talking about your 93 Ranger Splash 4.0L.

Seeing as how it has 134K miles & apparently you bought it used, as you've said "it seems to be very good mechanically", so if you don't know it's past scheduled maintenance service history, I would probally consider adding some things to the nice list Rockledge posted.

I know some of these things fall outside of what one normally thinks of as a "tune up", but I read your question in broader terms than just an engine tune up, more like what service should be considered for the mileage, when you said "& leave nothing out"

SO, I'd add....

New PCV valve & rubber hose, if the old hose is hard, stiff, checked, cracked, split ends, or loose fitting.

Check/replace all suspect rubber vacuum & vapor recovery lines.

Add a little di-electric grease, to both ends of the spark plug wire boots, with a clean wooden dowell, or the like.
Don't get crazy with the grease, a thin coat evenely spread will do.

Also clean the external spark plug insulators & butter a thin layer of di-electric grease on them too, before snapping the spark plug wire boots on.

Too much grease can trap air & make it diffcult to snap the boots on, or cause them to pop off when hot.

Good idea to use Motorcraft plugs, wires & other parts imo. You can look up the proper P/N's at http://www.motorcraft.com/

I buy my Motorcraft parts at a local area distributor, at a considerable discount, so if you have one close by, check him out, you could save some bucks.

The coilpack if not cracked or dirty, should be ok. The timing should be ok, if the system hasn't been messed with & it's parts are mounted tighly & undamaged.

Flush the power steering system & replace with the specified fluid.
I flush mine with "Seafoam Trans Tune" & at least a qt of fresh fluid, to get her all
fresh & clean inside!!!!

Flush the brake system, check/replace the front rubber brake hoses if needed & then add Motorcraft PM-1 DOT-3 brake fluid. It's danged good stuff & a good value.

Back flush the cooling system & replace the thermostat, radiator cap, upper & lower radiator hoses & all heater hoses, clean out the recovery tank, replace it's rubber connecting hose to the radiator, then replace the coolant.

On Edit: replce the accessory drive belt/s

Pull the front wheels & regrease the inner & outer wheel bearings.

If you have the two piece drive shaft & it's noisy, regrease the slip splines with moly grease, or moly antisieze compound.

Seeing as how you have a manual tranny, be sure to check/replace, the rubber plugs on the side of the case, if they show signs of leaking.

If you have a limited slip differential, be sure to add the specified friction modifier with the new fill lube Rockledge suggested.

Check the upper & lower intake manafold fastner torque.

I have CCDI (Combustion Chamber Deposit Interference) problems with my 99 4.0L & have had the Dealer do the Motorcraft PM-3 TSB "Decarb" proceedure, it worked but it didn't last very long for me.

I've found using Chevron or Chevron/Texaco gas & a periodic treatment with a full tank of gas & a 20oz bottle of "Techron Concentrate Plus", then running most of the treated tank out, along with the daily blow it out & 3500 rpm part of the
TSB, keeps my CCDI at bay.

So if you think carbon deposits may be your "tic" problem, keep this in mind & give it a try in your of a mind too.

If you decide to do the PM-3 decarb TSB, do it before the oil, filter, & plug change, as it'll dirty them all up!!!!

Just some more maintenance/tune up, things for consideration.