No spark before ignition coil?
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From: Graham, WA
No spark before ignition coil?
I have read previous posts that are similiar but don't exactly pinpoint my problem. I have an 83' f250 with the 5.8L 351. I have a Duraspark II ignition module I believe. The funny thing about the problem is I can start the truck beautifully when dead cold(like overnight). It runs great for about 10-15 minuts and just dies. No cough or sputter, just dies suddenly. I've replace all the plugs, the wires, the cap, the rotor, and the ignition coil module which reads the proper ohms when I test it. I've tried the old crazy method of pulling the ignition coil wire and gotten spark at cold start (shocked good) and when motors hot it won't spark (one little tiny spark during the end of crank and turning the key back to (accesory?) position. I think I have it down to the wiring harness, ignition module, or ignition switch but I'm running out of money here. Why is it losing spark when it gets hot??
Please help, this is my farm truck and I cant even get my horses feed if it's not running.
Thanks!
Please help, this is my farm truck and I cant even get my horses feed if it's not running.
Thanks!
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From: Graham, WA
Well, stupid question but I'm no mechanic by any means:
1.) Would it start at all if I put the wires on the wrong nodes on top the ignition coil. (My top bracket is busted so I had to wire myself) but this problem happened before I busted it. Sorry, I mean there is a positive and negative lead and I want to know which goes to the ignition module first of all and which goes to the switch. Someone rewired the heck out of this truck because of some alarm system which I cleared out but I still have a mess to deal with. I don't know if I'm being much help but i did unharness and unwire the ignition kill switch and it still starts cold.
2.) Wouldn't it keep running since I replace it with a brand new one?
1.) Would it start at all if I put the wires on the wrong nodes on top the ignition coil. (My top bracket is busted so I had to wire myself) but this problem happened before I busted it. Sorry, I mean there is a positive and negative lead and I want to know which goes to the ignition module first of all and which goes to the switch. Someone rewired the heck out of this truck because of some alarm system which I cleared out but I still have a mess to deal with. I don't know if I'm being much help but i did unharness and unwire the ignition kill switch and it still starts cold.
2.) Wouldn't it keep running since I replace it with a brand new one?
Last edited by oneminizut; Mar 1, 2007 at 12:58 AM.
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
He did say module. The plus side of coil is ign. the neg is dizzy. Don't think it will run if they are wrong. Replace the coil on engine if when it quites ya still have current to the poss side but no fire. With switch on.
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From: Graham, WA
Sorry, I got my part words mixed up. The coil is new, the ign. module is old. I replaced the cylinder coil on the motor. The actual ignition module (on the fender wall) is still the same and I'm not sure as how to test it or if I even have the right tools. Could the ignition module on the fender wall cause these types of problems as the coil that connects directly to the distributor is brand spankin new?
Last edited by oneminizut; Mar 1, 2007 at 08:51 AM.
Post Fiend
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Yes most definitely. Like any circuit board It can have cold solder joints that work when cold and go south as the board expands from the heat of use. Very common on the Durospark. The way I read yer post I was sure you had replaced that. Go for It as It Is all ya got left.
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From: Texas
On Duraspark II ignition systems, I have found that the wire connection going to the ignition module from the distributer is the most likely cause for ignition interrupt. Yes, it is possible for either the coil or module to open when warm, but far less likely than a bad connection. Normally you will find this connector lying on the intake on the water jacket. If a bad connection exists, the circuit opens and kills the pulse. It could be a bad connector or a frayed wire or both. Give this a look before you run out and buy anything.
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 1, 2007 at 10:15 AM.
Post Fiend
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by arctic y block
It may also test good at AutoZone and still fail when hot.
Yes, make sure they test it over and over again, at least 10 times to get the module hot.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Indianapolis, IN
maybe a stupid question, but where is the ignition coils located? I am installing a remote start and have the option to hook the tach wire up to the ignition coil so it knows how long to crank, but I don't know where the coils are located. My truck is a 2003 F250SD 7.3. Thanks.
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From: Niceville, FL.
Take a hair dryer with you when you have the module tested. Test first cold then heat it up as hot as you can and retest. Or before you start it cold, remove the module and put in your oven for about 20 minutes at 200 Deg. F. Then run put it back on the truck before it cools and try to start. No start-you've found the problem. Not that, do same with coil. Not the coil, try removing distributor cap and rotor button and using a hair dryer (or a heat gun) to heat the pickup coil inside the dist. Replace cap and rotor and retry. OBTW, check the wiring and connectors for grounding, open circuits, etc. or other problems.
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From: Graham, WA
Im gonna try the Autozone or the oven/hairdryer method...However I noticed that when I was running the truck to day and it got hot the ignition module felt cool to the touch. Also, the previous owner wired all sorts of alarm systems and radio stuff and god knows what and then pulled them before selling them so I have this huge mess aof rigged and taped up wires under the hood I'm trying to sort out. All sorts of connectors that dont even go to anything.