It ran fine for a long time without the emission controls. They were all taped up together and were not connected to anything. The EGR, is that the computer module under the seat?

 

Nope!
The dealy under the seat is the EEC which operates all the emissions, sets timing based on throttle position, and all sortsa stuff.

The EGR is exhaust gas recirculation which ports exhaust gas under the base of the carburetor (in your case) to pre-heat the engine to lower emissions, then gradually closes as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. If the EGR continues to alllow exhaust gases to heat, it will eventually make the engine extra toasty, and evaporate the atomized fuel. Not a good idea.

 

But underneath the carburetor there is just the manifold. How do I find it bro? oh, I see, it ports underneath the carb. Where is it though?

 

A properly operating EGR actually reduces combustion temperature to reduce oxides of nitrogen but whoever removed and replaced the original carburetor likely removed the EGR and its adapter (between carb base and intake manifold) and replaced it with a spacer. Or, at least, removed the EGR Valve and put on a block off plate. The EGR Valve is normally located at top rear of motor behind the carburetor.

 

Should I go get a stock carburetor? Yes, there is a spacer but no EGR so to speak of... At least I dont see it. And Im getting a bit irritated with the Edelbrock.

 

Hard to believe but yes, that is true...........but it must be working properly.

I believe from what I've read thus far, the EGR plate and actuator are missing. Ideally there would be a block on the passage and a spacer between the carburetor and intake.

I'm beginning to think that the ports have burned through whatever was placed under the carburetor, if only the gasket, and is now boiling the fuel.

 

Ok, I see a valve in the manifold behind the carburetor.... one goes to the big drum that connects to the place where you add brake fuel and the other looks like a gas line but I dont know where it goes (behind the block it runs)

 

I still think the problem is ignition component related, not carburetor, EGR or timing. OBTW, EGR valves are always closed at idle and open in various amounts in acceleration, cruise and decelleration modes. There is a simplified explanation at: http://autorepair.about.com/od/gener...l/bldef165.htm . Perhaps you are confused with the heat riser valve in the exhaust pipe or manifold long used to provide heat to the choke bimetallic spring and carburetor base for cold weather driveability on some vehicles.

 

So you guys think I should leave the distributor alone? It doesn't make sense to me to replace it since I thought that was more of a timing issue. Again, it starts right up cold, runs great... once it heats up it dies immediately (no sputter or choke) and then I cant get a spark from the ignition coil which is brand new. Ignition switch is brand new, tumbler is brand new, all distributor wires are brand new, all plugs are set at perfect gap. Module is brand new. I'm so lost....

 

ok, i read and understand... but should it be replaced if thats the key issue?

 

Would the the heat riser valve in the exhaust pipe or manifold cause this type of problem sir? I have to do this myself I CANNOT afford a mechanic so I appreciate the help.

 

Not likely the heat riser valve but if you have one block it in the open position temporarily. I suspect the pick-up coil in the distributor is breaking down under heat. You have to remove the dist. cap and rotor to see it. It's one of the things that needs to be given the heat soak test. Pickup coils aren't very expensive so you might want to just buy a new one. Make sure the new one comes with good installation instructions because alignment and spacing is fairly critical. Some new ones don't even come with instructions. I buy a considerable number of parts at Autozone and Advance but I generally get my ignition and other electrical components at NAPA even though they're much further away.

 

Hold on.....

Here is the problem. Engine Starts fine.
Engine idles fine.
Engine warms up to normal operating temperature fine.
Engine gets warm then stalls.

Ignition open circuit? Very likely.
EGR related, maybe
Distributer problem? Falls under Ignition fault likely.
Heat related. Most certainly.

Where are we now?
Right back to what I suggested in the beginning.
An open circuit (heat related) in the ignition between the Duraspark II and the distributer.

Hot engine (if indeed that is what is happening) is normally caused by a lean condition which I DO NOT THINK is the cause for the initial problem. (Forget this for now)

So yes, I agree with my initial thought, and Piffery1 that stalling is both ignition and heat related.

Normally.......typically the problem is at an electrical connection.
I would wrap each connection with electrical tape, (or shrink tube if you have it), ensure the connections are not touching the engine, then try again.
That costs nothing but time and eliminates a possible connector problem.

 

So I wrap up the wires between the module and the distributor? And replace the pickup coil? Sorry fellas but im really running out of time. My Wife leaves for a conference in Texas tomorrow and I need to get this solved NOW to feed my horses. Not trying to be an ******* but if you can pinpoint it in the next 10 hours I would grreatly appreciate it and send you both some beer of your choice.

 

Go for it, you have nothing to lose but time. Good luck to the Mrs. and you!

C-Ya!