turbo???
is it possable to turbo charge the 300?
would i have to 'remote turbo' it? there doesnt look like theres enough room, but what do i know u guys are the expterts.
*random question* would drilling holes in my exause help or hinder the proformance/sound?
Go to www.turbomustangs.com look at the knowledge base at the top, read everything (a few times) and you'll be an expert. Dont let the name fool you, its a site were all makes and models meet, trucks, cars, v8's, inliners. Check out the build ups and apply what others are doing to their engines, to your engine, its that simple. If you have a carb engine, its a no brainer, if you have the stock efi, then your gonna wanna find someone that can reprogram your stock computer, they are out there, you just have to dig. Another option is to use a standalone efi controller, read up on megasquirt, although, the more expensive well known companies could offer you something.
You can also go to www.fordsix.com look in the turbo,supercharger, nitrous section, see what the guys are doing with the small six.
Dont drill holes in your exhaust.
There is plenty of room for a turbo(s) in your engine bay. No need to remote mount it, although, if you dont do alotta offroading, where debri might damage the turbo and plumbing, that might be an option for you. I know many like to debate the whole remote turbo concept but the fact of the matter is, if thought out, it works and works well.
(you will probably have to copy and paste or type the links I provided into your browser, as this site likes to redirect links to the main page of this site)
Last edited by Motorhead351; Mar 1, 2007 at 07:42 AM.
The block and everything associated with it is built pretty stout. If you have an EFI motor then fuel pressure isn't going to be a problem even with the little 12 pound per hour injectors that come stock on the vehicle. If you wanted a cheap upgrade then even stock 15 pound an hour injectors off a 5.0 will do the trick. Though you would have to install an adjustable fuel regulator to reduce pressure to 35 psi or so. Thats close to factory specs for the 90 I run. An intercooler is going to be a must due to the location of the manifolds. The intake and exhaust being located on the same side of the head. You can alleviate the heat issue that arises from this by wrapping your exhaust. But refer to head cooling issues. My exhaust is wrapped from the manifolds to the cat with no adverse effects. But I don't have a turbo on my vehicle so I couldn't say what would happen with that.I guess there is this issue with coolant flow in the head not being as efficient as it could be. So you would have to watch out for that.
I have put alot of thought into doing a twin turbo install on my 4.9. Using a healthy dose of SWAG (Scientific Wild A.. Guess) I figure I could easily handle 30ish pounds of boost without blowing the motor . But I am looking for around 10-15 pounds of boost so I should be safe.
Anyways. Yes I have put some thought to it. Yes it can be done. Yes its going to be expensive as hell. And yes there is more to this but I don't feel like typing everything out. But its doable. And if your all for having bragging rights for having a 300+HP 300c.i.d. straight six. Then by all means go for it.
5.0 = 19 lb/hr injectors
Not all 302 engines used 19 lb/hr injectors though, some were the smaller lb/hr.
Your gonna wanna do more than just add larger injectors, you have to in some way be able to add more fuel per boost and your stock ecm/map sensor is not capable of reading positive pressure. You may get a one to one fuel pressure increase with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator but Id think an adjustable FMU or fuel management unit would be a good idea. There is a few ways to mechanically skin this cat but in any case, your just throwing fuel at it and hoping for the best.
Ideally you IMO should go with an aftermarket efi controller. If you go with an aftermarket efi controller, such as a megasquirt or one of the more expensive companies, you will get a map sensor that reads positive pressure aka boost and you can fine tune the fuel/timing maps accordingly, then when you add the larger injectors, you can control the pulse width and actual fuel maps vs just fuel psi. This method is a little more efficient, as you have an idea of what is actually happening and total control over it.
Shouldnt need an intercooler due to the header/intake placement, using low boost. A heat shield might be a better idea.
Wrapping your exhaust usually isnt a good idea, but those interested in boost usually dont care about the negative effects, just as long as they can get the turbo to spool efficiently.
Good luck getting a decent head gasket, thats one of the big issues with the inline six engine.
Have fun.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Mar 2, 2007 at 07:58 AM.
On the headgasket, Flatlander Racing will custom build one out of copper in almost any thickness for under $200.
Can you imagine the torque output of a turbo charged engine pushing 500hp, even at the upper rpm it would be impressive.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Mar 2, 2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Now if you wanna talk turbo and the inline six, Im sure you could make some impressive torque output, only way your gonna get some rpm out of it though to build hp, your gonna have to do something about the head and its not gonna be cheap.
I wish you the best though, If I in good concious thought 500hp was possible with the six and still be a street truck friendly engine, Id be cheering you on. Forced induction just might get you there. I definitely wouldnt wanna try it naturally aspirated.

Ive actually been chatting with a guy that has a 292 turbo, he estimates it around 450hp, reasonable boost, nothing insane. Thats a different bag of worms though.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Mar 2, 2007 at 06:51 PM.
You're going to be very lucky if you double the hp on your six to 300hp. 225 would be more feasible. That's a 50% increase in hp, which should just about equal a 50% increase in torque, putting the motor at 225hp and 530lb/ft, give or take 20 or so lb/ft of torque. That in itself would be a beast to be reckoned with, especially offroad.
As far as mounting a turbo, if you're working with an injected motor, the exhaust is on one side, and the intake is on the other. you could either route the piping up and over the front/top of the plenum, and into the intake, or you could go underneath the motor (I would wrap the part of the pipe that goes under the motor, btw). The only problem you would possibly have is actually mounting the turbo and the pipes. Nobody wants their turbo flopping around under the hood.
Also, if you're working with an automatic tranny, beware. If you're one of the unfortunate ones of us that got stuck with the E4OD, find another tranny. Having to get an E4OD rebuilt costs around $2200.00 which sucks major cahones. I've had to have mine rebuilt twice, on a stock motor with less than 150k on the odo....
if you've got a 5spd....ignore what I just said.
Just remember that if you're going to go turbo, find a good head in your local junkyard and have it machined and honed and whatnot, so it will flow better.
And if I'm not mistaken, the factory compression ratio is pretty low, like 7.5/1 or something like that, maybe 8.0/1...so detonation shouldn't be a problem, either...but I'd run premium octane through it to be safe (if you use a stock head...if you have it milled, expect the cr to jump to 8.5/1 or slightly higher, depending on how much they mill).
But, then again...I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last.


