speedometer bounce
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Liberty, MO
speedometer bounce
Ever since owning my Ranger (details in signature) my speedometer needle has always started jumping around when I get above 55 mph. Itll seddle down sometimes but mostly wants to vary with in 10 mph of my actuay speed. Like if I'm going 70 itll bounce back and forth between 65 and 75. Is there some simple fix I've just never thought of? I've had people tell me things like my cable may be broke or the lil gear that's in the tranny to sense the speed needs to be tightened or something to the effect. I cant believe that it'd be the busted cable because the degree of bounce has never changed and if the cable is broke eventually where both ends of the broken cable would have wore away to the point of no reading at all. The other thing about the speed sensor gear on the transmission couldnt be it either since I replaced my clutch about 8K after owning it and it's always done it b4 and after the removal and reinstall of the tranny.
Any ideas at all? Thanks....
Any ideas at all? Thanks....
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
When the speedo bounces up and down like that, it's the speedo head unit in the dash going. There are rebuilt ones out there if you search around some.
The cable or gear in the tranny going out causes mild bouncing that typically smoothes out at higher speed...the wild fluctuations are the speedometer itself going out.
The cable or gear in the tranny going out causes mild bouncing that typically smoothes out at higher speed...the wild fluctuations are the speedometer itself going out.
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Elder User
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From: Liberty, MO
Well a correction on the amount of movement. I drove it earlier and actually paid attention to it. It only varies about a total of 5ish mph, like +/- 3 mph of the actual speed when it settles down for a second.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: ut
My 94 did the same thing when I bought it last year. I removed the instrument cluster, which by the way is a pain. A nearby dealership sent it to what they called a "speedometer shop" and they replaced the jewelled bearing that the needle pivots around. The odometer always worked...just the speedo bounced. The cluster was returned (in exchange for $150) and the odometer wasn't messed with. All worked good after reinstallation.
If you do this, I'd replace all the cluster light bulbs while you're there.
If you do this, I'd replace all the cluster light bulbs while you're there.
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Elder User
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From: Liberty, MO
I know removince the cluster is a pain, I did it mid last year cuz half my gauges stopped lighting up. I replaced them all then. $150 sounds rich for as little as it bothers me, I've grown use to it. I think I'll just leave it unless someone else has another alternative????
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Mid-Mitten
Before you get in too deep, I'd lube the speedo cable (w/a light viscosity grease). I've fixed many speedo's with bouncing needles (including my Ranger's) over the years, by lubing. They'll often get worse in colder weather, as what little dried-up grease remaining thickens in the cold temps. Sometimes accompanied by a little "scritch, scritch" noise when rolling.
If I recall correctly (it's been a few years since I did mine) - just pull the cable from the back of the speedo (knuckle-buster!), slip out the inner cable, clean/lube, slip back together.
Or does it (inner cable) slip out from the tranny end...?? I can't quite remember... although I thought it was the speedo end...
Anyways - worth a shot, IMO... and spend zero $$!!
If I recall correctly (it's been a few years since I did mine) - just pull the cable from the back of the speedo (knuckle-buster!), slip out the inner cable, clean/lube, slip back together.
Or does it (inner cable) slip out from the tranny end...?? I can't quite remember... although I thought it was the speedo end...
Anyways - worth a shot, IMO... and spend zero $$!!
Last edited by moat; Mar 1, 2007 at 12:50 PM.
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Elder User
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From: Liberty, MO
Heck yeah! I'll give that a try as soon as it warms up. Last time I tried to pull my cluster out I couldnt figure out how to remove the cable. If you say its a knuckle buster maybe I didnt try hard enough. Would silicone or graphite work? Or do I need an actual grease?
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From: ut
The cable comes out the speedo end. I wasn't so lucky to just need the grease, but you might be. I verified the cluster problem by using a variable speed drill and carefully spun-up the speedo after it was removed from the truck. I regreased the cable anyway.
If I remember correctly, to disconnect the cable from the cluster, you depress a small button on the side of the cable housing right where it meets the backside of the cluster. It's a near impossible job without getting the cluster somewhat loose to begin with. To complicate matters, you need to be careful of the shift indicator if you have an auto tranny. One thing that would have been very useful is an extra elbow in my arm to make the multiple bends required to reach up there!
If I remember correctly, to disconnect the cable from the cluster, you depress a small button on the side of the cable housing right where it meets the backside of the cluster. It's a near impossible job without getting the cluster somewhat loose to begin with. To complicate matters, you need to be careful of the shift indicator if you have an auto tranny. One thing that would have been very useful is an extra elbow in my arm to make the multiple bends required to reach up there!
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Elder User
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From: Liberty, MO
Mine's a 5-speed, so no worry about the gear indicator. Pulling the cluster away from dash isnt hard at all when you give youself some slack in the speedo cable by pulling some slack from the tranny and pushing it up thru the firewall.
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From: Mid-Mitten
Originally Posted by Benaghetto
Would silicone or graphite work? Or do I need an actual grease?
Pennzoil 705
Lubriplate spray
Honda spray
Silicone isn't a very good lubricant, IMO... and graphite powder might soak up what oil/grease is impregnated in the existing cable... and eventually "muck" things up. I've used regular wheel bearing grease in a pinch, but a lighter grease is better - doesn't take much spinning resistance for the inner cable to "wind up" like a spring, and release... making the needle bounce. A light viscosity grease keeps that resistance low.
Like sjwoody said - an extra elbow joint would be awfully handy, as it's tight working up in there! Do-able, tho... just keep the Neosporin within reach! I somehow managed to do mine without loosening the cluster, IIRC.
Last edited by moat; Mar 2, 2007 at 05:46 AM.