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97 Still having problems. What next?

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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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97 Still having problems. What next?

Have a 97 Power Stoke 7.3
Had power problems, code 1249. So I changed the Wiring Harness under the valve cover and the valce cover gasket itself. Still having problems. It also did not want to start and still having problems with that. I cleaned all the battery cables and repalced one of the batteries. Blows white smoke when starting.

Also smoke had come from the steering column while driving it and now I can only start it in neutral. I was told that there are two different relys in the column. one is a brake celliod and one a switch. Does anyone have any other suggestions for me?

It has almost 300,000 miles on it. Orginally lost power while towing a trailer. Has been sitting for a while.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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Have you checked the GPR (glow plug relay) and are you familiar with the test techniques. As for the steering column smoke sounds like a burnt wire. I would hold the key in the start position and wiggle the shifter in park to see if it is a bad micro switch or connection, but sounds like you are going to have to tear into it. The more info you can provide the better trouble shooting you will get

also when you pull a code if you could post the explanation it will save us from having to look it up. When you replaced valve cover and wiring harnesses did you check the experior harness for burnt or corroded pins?
 

Last edited by bkcowboss; Feb 28, 2007 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Going to buy a GPR and try that. It's a pretty cheap try. I do not know about most of the testing stuff although I have been reading it here. I did not check the outer harness yet, I will look at that. Do you know what is in the rebuild kit for the harness and is it easy to fix them, or should I just try to get a whole new harness.
Then code was high bank open or something like that.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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The harness is expensive but if you look at the pins it is usually evident which ones are burned, you can clean them up(tedious but it worked for me) or you can re pin them Also you can check the GPR by putting a test light on the driver side large post if the light is on full bright when the wait to start light is on then it is good if it is dimmer than the passenger side or not on at all the relay is bad. I have also read somewhere recently that the switch in the steering column causes porblems along these lines, I will see if I can find that post and put a link in here for you
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Great thanks so much, I am new to the diesel thing and Im trying to learn as much as I can. I will let you know more soon.
Thanks
Cheryl
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:05 AM
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Hey does anyone know if the tool i would need to rebuild the harness can be bought from snap on. They have a GM one, but not sure if that would work.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Up date the code that first came up was P1293 Rt Side High Open
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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I am not sure about the tool but usually you can clean the pins with an emry file and using the sharp point on a 12v light tester to reset the contact tension by bending and tweeking. Works for me and I did it 12 months ago, here is a link to a thread that is also current. Check it out it may be relavent

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...e-problem.html
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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Thanks figured out that is there are two burnt pins one on each side of the banks. Rt and lft.
Also found that my brake controller that was installed before I bought the truck was the wire that bruned. So thinking I have to repalce the senser that it was connected to.
Now trying to figure out how to change the pins.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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You may not have to replace the pins, clean the contact surface, both the male and female ends use a test light or something small to crimp the connector a little bit tighter and you will probably be golden. I used a leatherman to clean mine and it has worked for over 12 months.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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Thanks I will try that first
Cheryl
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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Before you run out an buy a GPR you can test it. You may only need a couple GP's. Next cold start use a screw driver and cross out the 2 big terminals on the GPR for about 45-60 seconds, jump in the truck and see if it starts OK. If it starts hard you like need GP's (glow plugs).

BTW: There is 115v DC firing the injectors. DOn't touch the pins in the wire harness going into the v-cover gasket with it running.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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I have a set of jewler's files that I use to clean in hard-to-get-to places. Found them at a yard sale when I was in high school. Basically, they're very small versions of the files used in wood- and metal-shop.

If you can find them, they're a great help. I don't them very often, but when I do, they're worth their weight in gold.

I haven't had this problem so I don't know if using an aerosol electrical connector cleaner would be of any help.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 06:49 AM
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Idmooseman I am sure that the electrical spray would not hurt and probably help, and if you have a yard sale in may i would be happy to take those jewlers files off your hands, as I will be going home to Weiser to visit.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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Well I tried a new brake swtich for that problem and still cannot get it to start well. But when it is running. The Bank on the passenger side can both be desconnected and it will not change it will still run. So does that mean that the harnesses for both ports is bad? I am not sure what else to do.
Any Suggestion would be great thanks
 
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