Ater some nasty bit of sandblasting (did I mention I really hate it?) the 56 frame/suspension parts we started out brushing on Zero Rust and got the first coat done that way.
This took alot of time and it was impossible to get completely into all the small areas. Yesterday afternoon I used my cheap no name paint spray gun. I thinned the Zero Rust abit and it worked great, quicker to apply, faster drying time and much better coverage.
Because it goes on thinner I`ll need an extra coat but I like spraying it alot better, seems like less than half time time compared to using a brush.

 

I like using the Zero Rust also. I have spray cans and brush on. I don't have much time or mileage on the truck after coating it, so I don't have any data on endurance for it, but I like how it covers. I use two coats with the spray cans.

Did you use laquer thinner or xylene to thin it? What proportion?

 

I did the same but with chassis-saver.It sprays nice.

 

This is a bit off topic but since i have been using Zero Rust and also like it maybe you guys know. I am putting it on the inside of my fenders and have also painted the inner fenders and air deflectors etc. Since it will be a long time before I paint the exterior, i thought about coating the outside of the fenders, cab, hood, box etc. and then prime and paint later. Would i have to strip all this off for the final exterior paint or can it be covered over with a two stage paint?

I don't want to end up having to strip the entire exterior but thought i could use it to protect my existing sheet metal until final paint. I am having the sheet metal blasted and thought about coating the bare metal with Zero Rust instead of primer due to the unkown time frame until final painting. Basically, can it be used as a base primer without having to remove it later?

Thanks

Kevin

 

It is my understanding that Zero Rust can accept paint over it, unlike some other brands. I have not done that, but used ZR as the final coat. If I wanted to apply another color, I would not expect to just spray right over it, though, without a good scuff sanding to give the next coat something to grab on to. I would then use a good sealer/primer as the first coat over the ZR to provide a barrier between different paint systems just to ensure that the next coats adhere properly.

 

I used laquer thinner, suggested use is no more than 15% to 20% thinner.
I used just enough to have it run off in small thin drops off the stir stick rather a heavy thick stream.
Similar to mixing primer, try not to have ZR to thin, long as it will spray it`s good. It depends on the size of the spray gun orfice and how thick a paint material it will spray.
Next time I will use a little less thinner and see if it will still spray thru the gun.

 

I don't have alot of knowledge on painting but i am curious just the same, if you used zero rust or even por 15 and wanted to paint over it couldn't you use a self etching primer without scuffing up the other.

 

I think you can scuff this surfacer if you want teeth or something to grab to/but it is not necessary,but a nice step to knock of nibs and dirt specks,runs.It will last a long time before you have to paint.Technically--if you are going to paint far off-and unknown now--it should last fine.It will make a great base,and accepts most all topcoats.Self etching primer is also,a great primer and alot of guys use this,but this is unnecessary,with a coating like rust-bullett/por15/chassis saver,etc.--painting is a thing that if it doesn't come out right---do it again!!!--oh yea it is a little pricey.

 

I have always wondered why people go to the trouble of sandblasting metal and then coat it with a rust-encapsulating paint. Assuming that the sandblasting removed the rust, why not spray the metal with a good 2-part etching primer and then with a good acrylic paint?

 

Both ways are good, I think that Zero Rust is a tuffer coating and may last
longer. Then if the top coat gets chipped hopefully the ZR will still be doing it`s job and keeping the rust away.

 

over time these paint and chemical giants keep developing coatings to get you to spend money,and a useful product.I remember when you scraped and sprayed RED LEAD--good stuff but deadly.Yellow zinc chromate-good stuff ,but then epoxies,and etching primers all were developed for airplane/automobile painting.

Now the big thing are these new por15 type products.These are very good and expensive(what isn't)-but car-buffs still will sandblast there metals for either self-satisfaction,or want a show vehicle that will last forever.
It all is relevant of how you were taught.I believe that I personally will never be happy with a vehicle and will repaint or change colors.You probably just want your truck done and looking show worthy-or at least respectable.
Different strokes comes into mind-but don't forget-RUST NEVER SLEEPS-and if you have the time and the tools and the money--do it to your liking!!!
Personally -I have built some pretty nice trucks and cars in my past,and realize-that true meaning is to paint and prep as good as you can afford,and realize that no one will pay extra for all the criticing you did.
BUT YOU CAN SPEND SAT.DRINKING A COLD ONE WITH THE BOYS AND THEY COMPLIMENT YOU AND IT ALL SEEMS WORTH WHILE.

 

I just got some Zero Rust and will be using it soon.