how 2 time
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1
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I use Auto Repair Reference Center, its an online deal that i get through the local library check through ur library and u may be able to access it. Also try AllData.com they have an extensive site for repair, it is a pay site tho.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,175
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From: Kent WA
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 94F250TD
Im about to do the same thing in my 94 7.3 IDI is it a direct bolt in deal or do you need to change the timing at all?
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
There are 3 nuts on the back side of the pump mounting flange that hold it to the gear housing. The pump also has a mark on the top of their mounting flange that aligns with a mark on the gear housing. These marks can be seen when looking down on the pump where it meets the gear housing on the back side of the housing.
Unfortunately the mark isn't in the same location on every pump. Apparently they set the timing at the factory, and THEN make the marks, so the marks for every pump and gear housing set are uinique. Unless you have your original pump, the timing is going to be "off" even with the marks perfectly aligned.
The good news is that although the marks are unique to each pump, they are reasonably close to being in the same location for most of the pumps. Close enough that if you align the marks after changing the pump the timing will be close enough to correct for it to run.
Setting the timing takes one of two things.
1) Special equipment - a $200-$400 timing pulse-adapter to sense the pressure pulse in #1 injector line and convert that to an electrical signal that will cause your standard inductive timing light to "fire", or
2) a practiced ear to be able to hear the "powerstroke rattle". Timing one by ear means you adjust the timing until it makes the "powerstroke rattle" sound when it is cold with the timing advance on, and just barely DOESN'T rattle (or looking at it another way it just ALMOST rattles) once it is warmed up and the cold start advance kicks off.
Rotating the top of the pump towards the passenger side of the truck will advance the timing, rotating it towards the driver's side will retard the timing. Moving the pump timing mark 1/64 of an inch (.015") adjustst the timing approximately 2 degrees. DO NOT adjust the timing with the engine running and ALWAYS make sure at least two of the nuts are tight after making an adjustment BEFORE starting the engine.
The easiest solution? Go to a good diesel shop that has the right tools after you replace the pump and pay them their half-hour or one-hour minimum charge to have them set it for you. Unless you happen to have a friend nearby who already has a pulse adapter.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 94F250TD
Im about to do the same thing in my 94 7.3 IDI is it a direct bolt in deal or do you need to change the timing at all?
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
There are 3 nuts on the back side of the pump mounting flange that hold it to the gear housing. The pump also has a mark on the top of their mounting flange that aligns with a mark on the gear housing. These marks can be seen when looking down on the pump where it meets the gear housing on the back side of the housing.
Unfortunately the mark isn't in the same location on every pump. Apparently they set the timing at the factory, and THEN make the marks, so the marks for every pump and gear housing set are uinique. Unless you have your original pump, the timing is going to be "off" even with the marks perfectly aligned.
The good news is that although the marks are unique to each pump, they are reasonably close to being in the same location for most of the pumps. Close enough that if you align the marks after changing the pump the timing will be close enough to correct for it to run.
Setting the timing takes one of two things.
1) Special equipment - a $200-$400 timing pulse-adapter to sense the pressure pulse in #1 injector line and convert that to an electrical signal that will cause your standard inductive timing light to "fire", or
2) a practiced ear to be able to hear the "powerstroke rattle". Timing one by ear means you adjust the timing until it makes the "powerstroke rattle" sound when it is cold with the timing advance on, and just barely DOESN'T rattle (or looking at it another way it just ALMOST rattles) once it is warmed up and the cold start advance kicks off.
Rotating the top of the pump towards the passenger side of the truck will advance the timing, rotating it towards the driver's side will retard the timing. Moving the pump timing mark 1/64 of an inch (.015") adjustst the timing approximately 2 degrees. DO NOT adjust the timing with the engine running and ALWAYS make sure at least two of the nuts are tight after making an adjustment BEFORE starting the engine.
The easiest solution? Go to a good diesel shop that has the right tools after you replace the pump and pay them their half-hour or one-hour minimum charge to have them set it for you. Unless you happen to have a friend nearby who already has a pulse adapter.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2005
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well i set the timing on the truck myself, i had bought a set of wrenches for harbor frieght a while back and they are thin enough and bent with the slow offset. worked perfect. on losing the nuts, well i remove the cold start sel and got to the bottom bolt, well i had cleaned off the top of the pump and seen 2 marks on the pumpone was factory one was just chisled in. well it was set on the home made mark i call it. so i advanced the timing a hair some improvment. then i took it all back a part and advance the pump more and set it on the factory mark and reinstalled everything started it and it ran like a new no miss at start up and very little smoke. and she powers up smoothly when mashing the pedal so i guess i done it right. thanks for the help of dave s and plc73 and all the other members that helped out.that includes you too cheaper jeeper so i am going to give it a test run later today.
so they way it was setting the pump was already retarded and it was retarded more with new injectors, if that is they way i understand the info i have got.
thanks again
so they way it was setting the pump was already retarded and it was retarded more with new injectors, if that is they way i understand the info i have got.
thanks again
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,175
Likes: 0
From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by ncfirefighter46
well i set the timing on the truck myself, i had bought a set of wrenches for harbor frieght a while back and they are thin enough and bent with the slow offset. worked perfect. on losing the nuts, well i remove the cold start sel and got to the bottom bolt, well i had cleaned off the top of the pump and seen 2 marks on the pumpone was factory one was just chisled in. well it was set on the home made mark i call it. so i advanced the timing a hair some improvment. then i took it all back a part and advance the pump more and set it on the factory mark and reinstalled everything started it and it ran like a new no miss at start up and very little smoke. and she powers up smoothly when mashing the pedal so i guess i done it right. thanks for the help of dave s and plc73 and all the other members that helped out.that includes you too cheaper jeeper so i am going to give it a test run later today.
Originally Posted by ncfirefighter46
so they way it was setting the pump was already retarded and it was retarded more with new injectors, if that is they way i understand the info i have got.
thanks again
thanks again
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: East of Neckville NC
Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
Makes sense. It was set too far retarded to start with and when you put the new injectors in, since they take more pressure to "pop", they pop later than the old ones - retarding the timing even more....
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