Added lights, do I need a relay?
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Added lights, do I need a relay?
I changed out the 2 dim stock GE Halogen sealed beam headlights (35w) for 2 brighter GE Halogen HO sealed beam headlights (55w). Cost about $10 each and a big difference! Also noticed the 2 holes under my tailgate area for the light bars you see on the back of a dually. Added a 16" light bar that contains 3-194 bulbs in it and wired it up to the passenger side license plate light (I did not want to interfere with the spare tire crank tube on the drivers side). I dont have the factory bumper lights. So with these basic mods I made, do I need to add a relay somewhere or can my factory dash switch handle this extra load?
Also just want to make sure: when adjusting the headlights to aim a little higher, I tighten the top torx screw clockwise, right?
Also just want to make sure: when adjusting the headlights to aim a little higher, I tighten the top torx screw clockwise, right?
Last edited by DonJames; Feb 25, 2007 at 06:53 PM.
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From: Lancaster, MA
I think that your factory switch should be able to handle everything just fine. You didn't notice any diming or other electronic issues after the install did you? I relay never hurts, but is not always needed. I want to get the 3 light ID bar when i get a second. I think it makes the rear of a truck look great.
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No, have not noticed any problems. I was just wondering. I know when a person adds the factory bumper lights kit it comes with a heavy duty dash switch and didnt know if maybe this would be the same kind of situation that would require this or a relay or nothing at all. Maybe I am ok the way it is now but if I add more lights to the factory dash switch then I would need to do something. I just dont know.
The light bar does look cool. Easiest to hook directly up to the license plate light wiring. Found the light bar (of all places) at Wal-Mart automotive department next to the trailer lights/wiring/hitches. It was around $8. All lights & red lenses were there. Gets the negative from screwing it to the truck body. All you need to do is wire up the positive. The bar was colored white. Drilled out the mounting holes in the light bar a little bigger to match the ones on the truck bed. Then attached bolts & nuts. Never had to sand away any paint for a negative connection. Autoparts store had black wire protective wrap to protect the wire going from light bar to power source - wire wrap blends in and not noticed.
The light bar does look cool. Easiest to hook directly up to the license plate light wiring. Found the light bar (of all places) at Wal-Mart automotive department next to the trailer lights/wiring/hitches. It was around $8. All lights & red lenses were there. Gets the negative from screwing it to the truck body. All you need to do is wire up the positive. The bar was colored white. Drilled out the mounting holes in the light bar a little bigger to match the ones on the truck bed. Then attached bolts & nuts. Never had to sand away any paint for a negative connection. Autoparts store had black wire protective wrap to protect the wire going from light bar to power source - wire wrap blends in and not noticed.
Last edited by DonJames; Feb 25, 2007 at 09:14 PM.
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Dont think you will have any problems unless you add more lights.
The 3-194 bulbs you have on the back wont really make any difference since they (all together) draw less than 1 amp.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...0001&langId=-1
Swaping out 2-35w headlights for 2-55w headlights only increases it 40w total. Which only adds another 3.33 total amp draw there.
watts / volts = amps
To aim '06 sealed beams higher use #20 Torx and take top screw and turn inward (tighten) one full turn on each headlight. Then drive at night and adjust accordingly.
The 3-194 bulbs you have on the back wont really make any difference since they (all together) draw less than 1 amp.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...0001&langId=-1
Swaping out 2-35w headlights for 2-55w headlights only increases it 40w total. Which only adds another 3.33 total amp draw there.
watts / volts = amps
To aim '06 sealed beams higher use #20 Torx and take top screw and turn inward (tighten) one full turn on each headlight. Then drive at night and adjust accordingly.
Last edited by stevenn1; Feb 26, 2007 at 05:19 PM.
