When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This morning I got off the interstate in overdrive, tried to shift to 4th wouldn't go into gear. Got to the bottom of the ramp, it barely went into second, tried to go to third, and it wouldnt go. I had to shut the truck off to get it into first just to get off the road. When you get it in gear, it feels like the clutch won't disengage. You've gotta either shut the truck off or get it in neutral to stop. I limped it home in 2nd gear just now. When it is in gear though, it doesn't show any signs of slipping. The clutch master cylinder is full of fluid and the slave doesnt look like its leaking. What do yall think? springs in the pressure plate, could it be the slave cylinder, or is it time for a clutch? Thanks guys
If it doesnt seem to be slipping I'd say it would be the master/slave cylinder. I've read it's better to buy the set together than separate. Theres also a thread about a bent clutch fork.
Well, I got the clutch out last night. The center of the disk was cracked and the springs were popped out. The springs being loose between the disk and the diaphram springs were keeping it from disengaging. The new luk clutch will be here today, but the uppipes wont be here till tomorrow. I cracked my slave cylinder taking it out, so I need one of those. Any suggestions on where to buy one?
How many miles on the truck and or clutch? I have a similar setup and am wanting to put a more performance oriented clutch in. Please let us know how you like the new LUK clutch.
I put in a new LUK clutch and flywheel assembly and it's very nice. About 1/3 of the pedal effort and just as much holding power as the stocker. Very smooth engagement.
I haven't tried the 85HP tune yet, but it does just fine with the Tow/Haul.
I bought the stock replacement, not the $800.00 driveline twister model.
I put in a new LUK clutch and flywheel assembly and it's very nice. About 1/3 of the pedal effort and just as much holding power as the stocker. Very smooth engagement.
I haven't tried the 85HP tune yet, but it does just fine with the Tow/Haul.
I bought the stock replacement, not the $800.00 driveline twister model.
That's what I'm looking for. Don't need a clutch rated for 500 hp but don't want to be replacing again anytime soon. Hope it holds up for you.
well I bought the kit from Ford that includes the slave cylinder master cylinder and resivor, and I'm in the middle of installing it. It didnt come with the push rod for the master. My service manual says that once the rod is installed it cant be removed. Well it seems like its right because I cant get the old pushrod out of the master cylinder. The only way I see to get it out is to bust apart the old cylinder. Any ideas on how to get this out, or was my new kit supposed to include the pushrod?
Well I got the Luk clutch in. It's great. It's really smooth and quiet. The pedal is extremely light. It feels like a honda civic. I actually would prefer a stiffer pedal during normal driving, but I'll get used to it and I'm sure I'll be glad to have it when I'm sitting in traffic. The up pipes really quitened the thing down. It sounds like a different truck. Made my exhaust brake quieter too.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.