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I have an '87 Bronco, went out 2 weeks ago for a drive with wife, about 2 hours and 50 miles later, pulled up to traffic light and engine dropped down to just about stalling and felt like it wanted to jump out of truck. Replaced harmonic balancer per suggestion of Napa guy, that was bad but now, truck runs weird!! Idles funny, when in gear wants to stall when you come to a stop, in 4 wheel it pulses to the point the back tires seem like they are locking up, take it out of 4 wheel keeps on doing it for a while then that stops and it stalls. I took to local truck shop(very reputible guys) the put on computer, throwing EGR codes, replced that, oxygen sensor and some cooling sensor I had to p/u at junkyard because Ford don't make any more, now still pushing Cooling sensor and EGR codes. 200,000 miles on it. Any suggestions? Thanks, Backdraft.
what motor?
you should never install junkyard sensor parts. you should be able to get them at napa at least. were are you located as well, an o2 and cooling sensor should be available ford so you might try a different dealership. when was the truck tuned up last and whats the timing set at with the spout connector removed?
Motor is a 302, I only used Junkyard part because the shop told me the part isn't available thru Napa or Ford, I'll give Ford a try and see what happens. The 02 sensor is brand new, but the cooling sensor is the 1 I couldn't get. ANy way new plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor done within 6 months, The timing was done without a light so I am not sure where it's set.
I am not sure what the exact codes are, as the shop has been working on it. Alls they told me was O2 and cooling codes. Another quick question, Is there a way I can perform a compression check myself and if so can someone tell me how? Thanks for the input, Backdraft!
It was the egr opening up at idle unplugged it drove it around the block it was the little black vacuum sensor that controls the opening of the egr try blocking off the vacuum to the egr should be the green vacuum line to the egr let it run maybe this will help. knew mine was opening becouse at idle the egr tube from maniflod to the egr was getting hot real hot and its not supposed to open till like highway speeds good luck and yes you can do a compression check will a compression tester from autozone not as acurate as a leakdown test but will give you a good idea that all cylinders are within the same ratio once again good luck
Last edited by chevygoneford; Feb 25, 2007 at 06:34 AM.
Cooling Codes?? Your ECT(Engine Coolant Temp) must be bad. The ect tells the computer the engines temp and the computer then puts in the right amount of fuel. If that is bad it will cause your truck to run like crap. I just bought one for my truck and it helped alot. Does it run crappy all the time or does it smooth out as it warms up? Your timing could be off. Have your timing chain checked out. I would also inspect your plugs and wires and make sure they are still good.
s1120--Would I know that the chain is bad if the timing is off?
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">Chevygoneford,
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>how does a leak down test work? Also the green vac line where does that go to off the EGR?
Unger316
It runs bad from the time it starts(if it does start), also noticed today puffing heavy black exhaust. Damn this thing is definitly ticking me off. How do I check the timing chain?
To check the slack in the timing chain I put a deep socket on the bolt holding the harmonic balancer to the end of the crankshaft. Someone correct me if my memory has failed me but I think I remember it to be 1 3/16. Rock the crank back and forth until you feel the camshaft tighten up the chain slack. Mark the pulley and measure the amount of rotation. Mine was about 3/8 to 1/2 inch and did not look bad when I replaced the timing set but the new one made a world of difference. Does the starter spin it really easy and faster than normal?