rear end ?'s
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rear end ?'s
OK, JUST LOST AN AXLE & REAR END IS TRASHED ON 1967 f100 352 2BBL 3 ON THE TREE. What year ranges from donor trucks will work? If I had the luxury to pick "The Best" rear end, what would I look for? Any other suggestions would be great!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
67, Adding to Morris comment, In 68 the rear brake size was increased to the size that was used through 86 when the 9" was replaced. 68-72 year range is a direct replacement. The 73 and up is about 4" wider overall, but will fit under the sheet metal.
I am sure Bill will have the sizes of the brakes and the overall axle.
John
I am sure Bill will have the sizes of the brakes and the overall axle.
John
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
" . . . LOST AN AXLE & REAR END IS TRASHED"
An axle is a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a whole rear end. If there is a problem in the (removable) third member, it is also pretty easy to replace with one from a junk-yard or a donor. While a wrecking-yard component may be bad, most places will give you another one as long as you are willing to come back complaining -- in my experience they NEVER will give you a refund. If you go to a big yard and get them to agree up front that they will replace the unit if it turns out to be noisy. If you are lucky, the tag giving the ratio will still be on one of the housing studs, so you can get the ratio you want. (There are other ways to find or calculate the ratio -- just ask if you do not find them elsewhere in these forums.) Just about any 9" big Ford passenger car or F-100 will be 9" from '57 - '86 -- take along a gasket to use as a gage as you do not want the little brother 8" which looks very similar. (Also avoid any units that have noticable play in the pinion shaft or a lot of obvious seal leakage.)
I would only replace a housing that is bent or cracked. (I have had to deal with one or each of these in my time.)
Also: shock mounts were moved around over the years, so you need to look at that if you want to avoid some welding if you decide to go with a whole rear end. ('65 up angled the shocks left-to-right; before that they were angled front-to-rear.)
An axle is a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a whole rear end. If there is a problem in the (removable) third member, it is also pretty easy to replace with one from a junk-yard or a donor. While a wrecking-yard component may be bad, most places will give you another one as long as you are willing to come back complaining -- in my experience they NEVER will give you a refund. If you go to a big yard and get them to agree up front that they will replace the unit if it turns out to be noisy. If you are lucky, the tag giving the ratio will still be on one of the housing studs, so you can get the ratio you want. (There are other ways to find or calculate the ratio -- just ask if you do not find them elsewhere in these forums.) Just about any 9" big Ford passenger car or F-100 will be 9" from '57 - '86 -- take along a gasket to use as a gage as you do not want the little brother 8" which looks very similar. (Also avoid any units that have noticable play in the pinion shaft or a lot of obvious seal leakage.)
I would only replace a housing that is bent or cracked. (I have had to deal with one or each of these in my time.)
Also: shock mounts were moved around over the years, so you need to look at that if you want to avoid some welding if you decide to go with a whole rear end. ('65 up angled the shocks left-to-right; before that they were angled front-to-rear.)
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Joshiggity
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 28, 2010 07:06 AM
