Ok I've read and watched about half a dozen blocks of instructions on how to replace the phaser in my 5.4 04 F150. I dont see where they are placing the timing block to keep the chain slack out. I went ahead and purchased both sides "phasers" where in the heck does the wedge tool go? anyone have a photo for me to look at?
Basically your just jamming the wedge down between were the chain narrows in the timing cover. all you want to do is jam the chain in such a way it wont fall down and come off the lower sprocket. If it does fall you will need to remove the front cover which actually isn't that hard, an extra hour is about all. I've had mine apart way too many times to count. Did you do an oil pressure check before starting this job? And the check done with a manual gauge, not the one on your dash?
You can go on alldata and buy the licence for all the information on your truck.
I think it's about 19.00 last time I checked, I'm a tech and alldata is what we use.
I would like to add check your oil pressure first before forking out money for parts. The 5.4 and 4.6 are known for the tensioner blowing and causing oil starvation to the top of engine. This causes the phaser problems in some cases not enough oil pressure. Not saying this is your problem but better to be safe then sorry. They are also bad for VVT screens plugging up or coming a part
I have an o4 that does the same thing. aparently the noise will not do any harm, although it drives me nuts. I am going to replace both of mine myself. I did the research and talked to some techs at my ford dealer. I am a bmw tech, and am familiar with doing engine work. I have discovered that the procedure is not that difficult. It just requires one special tool. It is called a timing wedge. I believe that the phaser kit costs about $180 each. It is ok if you just replace one. although, if you have the tool, it is probably better to replace both. You will also need valve cover gaskets.
I just recently purchased a 04 f150 lariot with that same issue, been hearing also that it does not cause any harm, was told that i need to stay on top of my oil changes though, the sound worries the hell out of me
The pcm electrically controls the vcts releasing hydraulic pressure to phasor using dirty engine oil . The phasor adjusts the cam to the desired advance or retard . The cam sensor feeds back to tell the PCM where its at .
Carbon from combustion in oil jams this circuit .
Oil pressure is key to this operation . The plastic tensioners for the chain run on oil pressure and they tend to blow their seals dropping oil pressure . This causes chains to whip and break plastic guides ,the pieces fall down and jam oil pickup screen causing more low oil pressure starving upper engine ,cams , rollers and lash adjusters . ALSO the chain frequently jumps time .
The dash gauge is an idiot device it reads mid scale for anything over 7 psi .
So now you know why guys say check your oil pressure .
One of the fixes during timing job is to use old style metal ratcheting tensioners, they are available on amazon . Change oil pump to melling m340 or 360. Always use mc filters as they have a good drain back valve to prevent dry starts . Wally world has them they are cheap . Don't do extended oil change intervals , dirt is the problem and use good syn oil , I don't care if its holy oil, if its dirty your asking for trouble . If you try an engine flush you will jam everything .
The ratchet tensioner keeps pressure on during starts before oil pressure gets up . Phasors and vcts work hard only use oem on these . Vcts and vct body have small screens that jam up with dirt .
More and more engines use this mode so it's just not ford . Lockouts don't fix any of this .
It is a good idea to drop oil pan and check for plastic if it's there you need a timing job .
Phasors do fail but lack of oil maybe part of the problem .
The timing cover takes about 10 to 16 hours to get there unless you are really good so do it right when you go in .