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clutch/neutral safety switch

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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #1  
speedrdr's Avatar
speedrdr
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From: Mississippi
clutch/neutral safety switch

had new clutch installed about 10K miles ago in the process of repairing sheared gears in transfer case(mechanic thought originally it was transmission blown). the clutch has to be mashed all the way to firewall AND then mash harder for starter to work. been thinking it's the throw out bearing going out, but that's exactly the way it did before clutch, pressure plates, et cetera were changed. was wondering if disconnecting that safety switch would be an acceptable "fix" so i can just put tranny in neutral to crank it. also, where the heck is the adjustment on the travel on the engagement for that thing??? clutch engages at about 1 inch from floor.


__________________________________________________ ______________

'90 F-250 7.3 5-speed 4X4
'70 VW Beetle
'85 Toyota 4X4
2000 Mercury Sable
(yeah, I know, nothing but old stuff, except for wife's car)
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:00 PM
  #2  
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Bullitt350
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From: Houston TX
I was putting my foot through the firewall too. I shimmed the switch by notching a plastic ring to fit over the rod between the firewall and switch, effectively moving the switch farther up the rod. It was about 1/8" thick. Works like a charm. The plastic ring was some sort of washer I had lying around.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:07 PM
  #3  
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speedrdr
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From: Mississippi
great! since it warmed up here to above 40 degrees, i'll feel like getting out and getting greasy on it tomorrow LOL. found a service manual on Ebay and bought it for $0.99. cheap enough to be able to afford parts that i will be able to identify that i know are missing.
speedrdr
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:24 PM
  #4  
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whiteguy589
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From: Puyallup, WA
Talking

I had the same issue, I think the switch contacts might wear out over time. I just added a 1/4" rubber washer in between the base if the master cyl. and the safety switch. 20,000 miles later and she works like a charm!!

Good luck!!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 07:25 AM
  #5  
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DeepRoots
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From: Douglas, Georgia
we replaced the rod with a threaded bolt.
that way we could adjust it as neccesary to make contact.

on a job one day we were having trouble getting it to start on account of the switch. A peice of paperclip jumped between the two hot "on" terminals solved the problem and we've lived with it since.
Yes you can start it in gear.
no it probably isn't safe.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:28 AM
  #6  
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PLC7.3
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Have you guys checked the firewall by the booster for cracking and flexing producing a similar problem your experiencing....

There is a TSB for the repair if you need it...... click on my name and email me.

Use Subject: Clutch TSB
 

Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 21, 2007 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #7  
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Winger235
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Byron New York
Ford had service bulletin I remember for that flex problem. The dealer would just glue some lousy formed plate on the fire wall and rebolt. The concrete company I worked for had a fleet of 89,90,91 F-250 7.3L 4x2 ZF5 Ext. Cab trucks everyone of them had the flex problem and the starting problem. The switch had to be shimmed or replaced and the firewall would get it's plate. I love these fleet maintained rigs I bought one of the old girls from this company a couple years back as a donor. Diesel ran strong still does actually running in the winter rig right now. New Starter, Alt and battery cables all new. 350 bucks. Nice
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 06:36 PM
  #8  
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Ben-jamin
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From: houston,tx
along with the firewall flex/cracking problem check the clutch pedal pivot arm bushings for excesive wear. just grab the pedal firmly and move it side to side, if you can; that needs fixing also.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:06 AM
  #9  
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speedrdr
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From: Mississippi
great! looks like i'm gonna get some relief and the left leg will not get to be twice the size of the right from mashing pedal. LOL thanks for the help. thought about shooting it with large caliber rifle until i found this site.
speedrdr
 
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