bad vibration
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bad vibration
i know there have been a bunch of posts about vibration, i was just wondering if anyone found a solution for this yet. i have a 2006 f250 fx4 supercab psd. i have the bad vibration when accelerating from a stop. Been to the dealer 4 times, they shimmed the carrier and replaced the driveshaft, and still have the vibration. The more weight i put the worse it gets. don't know what else to do, dealer giving me the run around saying that, that's as good as it gets. any help would be great.
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never realy gave it much thougt, it only does it for a couple of seconds when i pull out and the heavyer the load or the steeper the hill the worse it is. i'll get the tires rebalanced though just to rule it out thanks
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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I have a 2000 f250 and it does the same thing i had 33" tires on it and it vibrated like crazy off the line and went away and now im at 37" tires and it still does and the alignment and balance is perfect im guessing something to do with the rear end or driveshaft or something I dont know.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 69
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Jmolin, how many shims did they add to the carrier bearing ?I know up to three or 3/4" are allowed.IS the truck chipped or stock?My 05 crew cab 350 only does it on a steep incline with a loades trailer,I added two shims but have not had the trailer/load the same to make it show up.I also get the basketball dribble "bounce" on concrete freeways which is annoying as hell also,this is my first Ford and an employee for what thats worth.If you find the cure please post it for us "SHAKEN ONES".
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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my truck is stock for now but i want 8 inch and 38s im just afraid the vib will get unbearable. ive had 1 then 2 then 3 shims and i think its best loaded with 0 shims and empty with 3 shims its driving me nuts and i will find a fix i'll let you all know when i do theres got to be something. i noticed that (i hate to even say it but)a chevy has a one peice alum. drive shaft, maybe something along these lines could help us
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2003
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If it gets worse with more weight I do not think shims are the answer. Weight would straighten the driveline angle and reduce the vibration. I seem to remember another TSB about the turbo pedestal or something causing similiar symptoms.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2003
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You guys with the vibration running the stock Ford wheels? If not then you probably have lugcentric oposed to the factory hubcentric wheels. Heres the best way to get the hubcentric wheels centered to avoid all vibrations. You also may try a shop that does Road force balancing it works.
What is a Center Bore? Hub Centric vs. Lug Centric
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. Centerbores on wheels are typically a standard size by brand or size (measured in inches or mm). Hub sizes vary by vehicle brand and style.
When this hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration, it is said that the wheel is “hub centric”.
Some wheels require centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel in order to become hub centric and reduce the risk of vibration while driving. This is an acceptable alternative.
If you don’t not have hub centric wheels (lug centric), they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.
This is the road force balance I only use this method and it works great on my 35's
http://www.craigautometrics.com/huntergsp9700.htm
What is a Center Bore? Hub Centric vs. Lug Centric
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. Centerbores on wheels are typically a standard size by brand or size (measured in inches or mm). Hub sizes vary by vehicle brand and style.
When this hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration, it is said that the wheel is “hub centric”.
Some wheels require centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel in order to become hub centric and reduce the risk of vibration while driving. This is an acceptable alternative.
If you don’t not have hub centric wheels (lug centric), they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.
This is the road force balance I only use this method and it works great on my 35's
http://www.craigautometrics.com/huntergsp9700.htm
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Las Vegas
Originally Posted by jmolin
has anyone had the vib and put a 6 or 8 inch lift? did it get worse better same? i could probably live with it as long as it dont get worse
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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sounds good to me. i'll just put on my lift and tires, order up some traction bars, and road force balance the tires. thanks alot guys.this is by far the most informative site out there thanks again.
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