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Is it possible to get a used MAF from a larger engine and put it on the XLT? Or is this mucking with the truck's brain too much?
Those performance jobs are expensive.
It is usually no problem as long as the MAS has the same plug style and is calibrated for the same lb injectors. If it is for different injectors, you will need a tuner or chip to recalibrate it.
It is usually no problem as long as the MAS has the same plug style and is calibrated for the same lb injectors. If it is for different injectors, you will need a tuner or chip to recalibrate it.
I run a 80mm MAS off a Cobra Mustang...
I wouldn't know where to begin finding all the injector info. What are they on a stock '94 4.0?
You have 19lb injectors stock. I believe you also have a 70mm mas now. You won't found too many that are too much larger. Most of the Cobras came with 80mm, and the later Lightnings came with 90mm. The problem with those are the Cobras that had 80mm mas had 24lb injectors and the Lightnings had 39's (I think). Most that came with a 19lb injector had a 65-75mm mas - which isn't going to be worth the trouble.
You have 19lb injectors stock. I believe you also have a 70mm mas now.
The MAS on the truck has a significant reduction in ID right in the middle, where the sensor protrudes. I looked at a MAS from a 95 on eBay and there is no such reduction.
While looking on ebay I noticed that some MAS's have almost nothing in the bore, while others have large dividers in the middle of the bore. So the actual ID doesn't necessarily tell the tale. Does this sound right?
I got MAF from a '95 coming from ebay for $14 incl shipping. Comparing photos, it has a much larger bore.
As for current mods, I have an aftermarket cleanable air cleaner on it and got rid of the stock airbox. If the MAF works, I will think about replacing the stock intake tube. THen perhaps a more open exhaust.
I swapped the MAS out with the one from the '95 EX from ebay. The ID on the stock MAS is about 45mm, the only obstruction being the screen. The one from the '95 I forgot to measure, but its significantly larger, but there is a divider right down the middle. The OD of where the tube attaches on the intake side was a little bigger, and I had to leave the rubber seal off. It still seemed to attach securely when the clamp was tightened. The connector had a different shape plug. I had to cut away the plastic around the contacts in order for the original plug to be able to make contact. I put some dilectric compound on it and secured it with wire ties.
I had the battery disconncted while I did the swap. I reconnected it and started it up. Ran fine, no "check engine" light. Then I took it down the street and back to be sure I could drive it to work tomorrow. Ran good.
To sum, I made a really cheap codge job of an experiment, can reverse it anytime. It seems compatible. But I will save any performance observations until I run it a couple of days.
Try swapping the MAF element from your old one to the new tube and see if that makes any difference. I am anxious to hear your results and am curious if swapping the MAF to a larger housing makes any difference.
There are two different style plugs that I know of: one is a rectangular style, and the other is more of an oval style. They should both be 4 wire plugs. Be careful as the wires are backwards from the two (if I remember right).
Try swapping the MAF element from your old one to the new tube and see if that makes any difference. I am anxious to hear your results and am curious if swapping the MAF to a larger housing makes any difference.
I don't think that will work. The original element extends down to the top part of the opening. The other one looks like it extends down to about the middle of the opening.