transmission draw
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transmission draw
Hey everybody, I have a current draw in my 91 f-150 xl 4.9l 2wd, that kills my battery after a few hours if I dont unhook the battery.
I cant figure out what the hell it is, checked the circuits, at least internally, and got nothing. The other day I noticed a humming comming from underneath the truck and after climbing underneath and listening, it seems to be comming from above the transmission.
So it seems something is running on after I shut the truck off. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, it's been going on for months, and its driving me crazy. I actually took it to a couple shops, and they said they could'nt find anything.
Hope to hear some replies, Thanks, James.
I cant figure out what the hell it is, checked the circuits, at least internally, and got nothing. The other day I noticed a humming comming from underneath the truck and after climbing underneath and listening, it seems to be comming from above the transmission.
So it seems something is running on after I shut the truck off. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, it's been going on for months, and its driving me crazy. I actually took it to a couple shops, and they said they could'nt find anything.
Hope to hear some replies, Thanks, James.
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From: St Louis
Pull the EEC power relay and see if that stops it. Might be a relay stuck closed. Relay is supplied by fuse F1 under the hood.
All of the solenoids in the tranny are supplied by this circuit. If they're getting power when they shouldn't be, they can buzz.
Steve
All of the solenoids in the tranny are supplied by this circuit. If they're getting power when they shouldn't be, they can buzz.
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; Feb 22, 2007 at 09:11 AM.
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That sounds like a great idea, but there is no fuse box underneath the hood, that I can find. Hope I'm not showing myself to be a fool here. Sounds like you know more than I do.
I was underneath the truck today, and the buzzing seems to be comming from the neutral safety switch.I unplugged it and traced the wires so that I could check and see if they were chafed and grounding out, but when I plugged it back in. the louder hum was gone.
Or so I thought, but after putting a stethescope to the oil pan on the tranny,there was the buzzing again, you can only here it with the stethescope though.
Opinions?
Thanks for your time guys. I'll pull the eec tomorrow.
I was underneath the truck today, and the buzzing seems to be comming from the neutral safety switch.I unplugged it and traced the wires so that I could check and see if they were chafed and grounding out, but when I plugged it back in. the louder hum was gone.
Or so I thought, but after putting a stethescope to the oil pan on the tranny,there was the buzzing again, you can only here it with the stethescope though.
Opinions?
Thanks for your time guys. I'll pull the eec tomorrow.
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Yup, I unplugged the harness from the neutral safety switch, I dont know as much as a lot of people on here, but I know that much.
All I did was basiclly unplug it and jiggle it around,and the humming lessened.
edit: did'nt see the colour of the wires due to the plastic shielding, tape etc.
All I did was basiclly unplug it and jiggle it around,and the humming lessened.
edit: did'nt see the colour of the wires due to the plastic shielding, tape etc.
Last edited by driven; Feb 23, 2007 at 01:05 PM.
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From: Virginia
The switch is just some brass foil lands with some spring loaded rubbing blocks. I can't figure what would make the noise. Usually when a contact goes bad, you see a little wisp of smoke coming out.
If your switch has 4 wires, then two of them are the back-up circuit, and two of them are the neutral start circuit(red/blue).
The back-up light circuit is hooked to the ignition run power feed, so it should only have power when the key is in run position.
The neutral safety will only have power when the switch is in the start position.
If your switch has 4 wires, then two of them are the back-up circuit, and two of them are the neutral start circuit(red/blue).
The back-up light circuit is hooked to the ignition run power feed, so it should only have power when the key is in run position.
The neutral safety will only have power when the switch is in the start position.
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