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Won't start cold

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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #1  
EAnnSellers's Avatar
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Question Won't start cold

Hi - this is my first post - I'm trying to help my husband figure out what is wrong with our 1989 F250 7.3l diesel. It will NOT start when the engine is cold. The only way to get it started is by shooting it with starter fluid. Once you get it started and drive it enough for the engine to warm up, it will start fine the rest of the trip. Then if it sits for a few hours, it won't start again. The glow plugs and control sensor were just changed, but that has not made a difference. The truck has 134,000 miles. FYI - we live in a pretty mild climate. HELP!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Sounds like a glow plug problem. I would double check that they are working correctly. Also be very careful using starting fluid on this motor, it can cause major damage if used incorrectly.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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does the wait to start light come on at all or does it come on and go out very quickly if it works properly it should stay on 10-15 seconds for the first start on a cold day
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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also, try using the block heater a few hours before lift off. if it starts fine and continues to idle with the block heater, it is a sign that the glow plugs arent working properly.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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Well, assuming that since the glow plugs have been changed and are working correctly, this sound like a classic air in the fuel system problem. Are the injectors and return lines still painted gray?, if so they are original, and you have a common problem of air in the system, which allows the fuel to drain back to the tanks and causes cold start problems. The fix is a return line kit with new hoses, clamps, and most importantly, new o-rings on the injectors to seal the plastic caps on the return line system.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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Do NOT run the starter more than 20 seconds or the starter will give out. Very $$$$ part. Let the starter cool for a minimum of 2 minutes between tries.

I am wondering also - is the controler/relay getting power? I know you just had them replaced but I would check it out.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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I agree with KJLYPW. You probably have a small air leak allowing fuel to drain back to the tank after the truck has sat for a few hours. Check all fuel lines for tight connections as well as fuel lines suggested.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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EAnnSellers,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

Give us a little more information about your starting problems.

May take a day or two to get the symptoms figured out, but it is probably a rather easy fix.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will forward on to my husband and have him check it out this weekend.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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i just got my 1st diesel as well (89 7.3)and it has the same problem... when warmed up and turned off it will fire right up ( wait to start light comes on) but when it hasnt been driven ( like say over night) the "wait to start" light doesnt come on. i was thinking maybe its wired backwards- on when warm and off when cold??you can't start it with out the use of "glow plug safe" starter fluid when it hasnt been run in several hours... the glow plugs are pretty new from what ive been told...
 

Last edited by rockcrawlerdude; Feb 23, 2007 at 05:16 PM. Reason: new info
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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i double checked the glow plug relay and it looks new as well, for what ever reason the wait to start light wont come on when it gets back to outdoor temp (currently 75 degrees) anyone have any ideas? also anyone tell me how to wire a manual system for the glow plugs if i can figure out the prob?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:28 AM
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Quick test for both of you. Jump the two posts on your glowplug relay with a screwdriver for 45-60 seconds and then jump in and try to start it. If it starts right up you know your glowplugs are good and you may have a bad relay. It sounds like you both have good glowplugs and probably good relays. I would guess that EAS has air intrusion problems and her glowplugs are working fine. Her truck should fail the test, cold or warm(doesn't matter) as long as the truck has been sitting for a couple of hours since it was last run. If it were mine I would cut the fuel return line near the fuel canister and plug both ends to see if that eliminates the problem. I would guess that Dude has glowplug relay problems. It is not always coming on when it should. It does however come on when it absolutely must(cold,cold). It needs to also come on when the engine is only warm like 150 degrees. It is mismanaging temperatire-related questions. I would consider replacing the glowplug system temperature sensor.
 

Last edited by F350_Hauler; Feb 27, 2007 at 07:43 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by F350_Hauler
It is mismanaging temperatire-related questions. I would consider replacing the glowplug system temperature sensor.
where ia the temp sensor? is it that squigly piece of metal attached to the solenoid/relay?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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Check your glowplug relay first to make sure it has power on both bolts. Or if it's cold and you jumper them with a screwdriver for a minute and then crank it and it starts right up you need a GPR. If it's cold and you jumper it and it doesn't start right up then you probably have an air leak. If it is at all warm and it won't start back up because it has sat for 2-3 hours then you have an air leak. There is a rubber fuel line that goes from the fuel filter housing down to the top corner of the passenger side of the engine. If you can take the hose barb fitting out of the fuel filter housing and put a little plug in it and then plug the other end of the hose with a bolt and a good hose clamp it might eliminate the source of your air leak. That is for both of you. It is a VERY COMMON place for air to leak into the fuel system and it is a redundant pressure relief backflow line. You don't need it and for the trouble it causes it is worth it to get rid of it.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by F350_Hauler
... If it is at all warm and it won't start back up because it has sat for 2-3 hours then you have an air leak. There is a rubber fuel line that goes from the fuel filter housing down to the top corner of the passenger side of the engine. If you can take the hose barb fitting out of the fuel filter housing and put a little plug in it and then plug the other end of the hose with a bolt and a good hose clamp it might eliminate the source of your air leak. That is for both of you. It is a VERY COMMON place for air to leak into the fuel system and it is a redundant pressure relief backflow line. You don't need it and for the trouble it causes it is worth it to get rid of it.
well i looked at that line ( from the top of the fuel filter housing to the top of the engine into what looks like the line for the injectors???) and the top clamp was the factory tension kind, well i pulle dit off and the line was dry!! so i replaced the top clamp to see if that would help.. well yes and no... now the "WAIT TO START" light now comes on when you havent driven it in awhile so one prob solved but its still not starting so im assuming there still is a leak in that area... can you show me or send a pic of the line your talking about? this way i make sure to close off the correct one... thanks N8
 
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