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Hi everyone, I have a 59 f100 panel and am experiencing a low voltage problem. I was taking her for a test drive and the truck died and would not start. I have dim instrument panel indicator lights but when I hit the key they go off. No sound anywhere!! Recently I replaced the voltage regulator, generator, battery, cables, starter relay, ballist resistor. Wondering about ignition switch and headlight switch and what roll these play in a not starting situation. Thanks Cory
I wouln't think it was the ignition switch because you were driving it and it died. I would start with the easy checks: If you can get the engine started (jump it or whatever) and have a volt meter, you can check the charging system quickly to see if the generator is putting out something over 12 volts back to the battery. Put the 2 leads of the meter on the positive and negative battery posts. If it's around 13-14 volts or more, the system is charging. That quickly rules that out and is about the easiest to check.
That's the best place to start. If the system isn't charging, the engine and any electrical usage while it's running will drain the batttery and make the engine quit.
I tried to jump with my other car and got nothing, I did notice that the generator does have a lose screw that goes into the generator, thankfully its under warranty. Battery is sitting at 12.46 volts. The only reason I say the switches might be the problem is that I took the dash plate off to examine both switches and I got bright ignition lights but when I turned it to start it went back to dim dash lights and didn't make a sound. I noticed that the 59 f100 have an interesting light switch with lots of leads and a hot terminal for acc., 2 fuses on the back. I did notice that this is cracked in the back also, sucker is $90-120 for just this switch. The ignition switch case seems kinda lose to. Tried to jump it also with the starter relay with a screw driver and nothing. I know it's something stupid, electical is the hardest part of working on cars for me. Thanks for responding back and any help is always helpful.
Seems to have good grounds. Cleaned them up. As for polarizing I left the center wire undone and touched to the right terminal briefly and then connected the center wire.
I've been working around aircraft wiring and vehicles for more than thirty years. About 80% of the problems happen after changing several parts, go back and review parts condition and (correct) connections and you may find your problem. Sometimes dealer parts are defective. Voltage is required, but so is amps for starting. Batteries are good for about three years +/-. If battery is old, disconnect leads and hook leads to another cars jumper cables, taking your battery out of the loop. Alternators/generators are easy to remove and take to aftermarket dealer for free checkout. Hope this helps, chuck
I forgot to tell you to try hooking another car's jumper cable ground to your frame, then use the positive jumper to starter connection to see if it turns over. I've had starters come apart inside and lockup. Many times people replace battery negative ground to frame and don't remove grease, corrison or use new bolt on battery lead to frame connection. Hope this helps, chuck
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